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GBertolet

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Everything posted by GBertolet

  1. One of the local MDs, got tired of cleaning up the wrappers from the pasters after the match, so it's tape now.
  2. Another possibility, if the vertical play is not too much, is getting one of the EGW .203 slide stops. That will lift your barrel up a little. I had a 1911 that the slidestop hole in the frame was a little worn. I replaced it with the EGW .203 slidestop, and had to remove some metal from the lug to get into battery. All depends on how much you need to go.
  3. I just shot at that club Saturday. They have great USPSA matches. There was an announcement there about having a falling steel match on the 16th. They were talking about 35 pieces of steel on each stage, for about 150 total. Signup is on practiscore, under Eagleville, PA location. I don't know exactly who is running it, or any other specific details. There is ICORE, IDPA, as well as USPSA matches held at that club. If I find out anything more, I will post it.
  4. The primers are brass. They are worth several dollars a pound. Keep saving them. I have a 5 gallon bucket half full, I am working on filling. When you feel you have a sufficient supply, take them to the scrap yard. It is a good way to get funds for other components.
  5. The muzzle energies of 115 gr bullet and the 147 bullet are not even close when loaded to the same power factor. The foot pounds of energy are considerably less with the heavier bullet, even though the power factors are the same. Pick any caliber, and bullet weights to compare, and compute what velocity is needed to make power factor. Go to a ballistics chart, and see what the energy is for those bullet weights, and compare. The heavier bullets are less powerful, energy wise. This will explain why heavier bullets recoil less. You get to choose your poison. Heavy bullets=slower cycling, and light bullets= faster cycling. In revolvers, the heavier bullets really shine, as there is no sluggish reciprocating slide.
  6. I have the model that Unique Tek sells. It is made by Sharper Tek. 6.1 L, with 3 transducers @ 180 W, 600 W heater. Heats pretty fast. According to Sharper Tek, it is made in USA, using some foreign made parts. I originally got it for cleaning small parts in the shop, but added the gun cleaning kit that was available for it, which included an oil bath tray, special oil and solvent. A mid priced unit. Can handle two stripped down 1911's. And probably squeeze a 6" revolver in there by itself. Do your research on what type of solvents to use, and how long to leave the gun in there. I have a bunch of different specialized solvents, but for many situations, Dawn dish detergent cleans pretty well, is cheap, and is safe for finishes. Safe to dispose of also.
  7. I have had problems with Win LP primers flame cutting the breachface, where as Federals do not. Might have something to do with their hardness, in relation to chamber pressure. Not enough obturation to seal the primer pocket. Never had an ignition issues though. They all go bang.
  8. The Fusion people are pretty good. I bet when you explain the situation, they will tell you to return the slide, and they will finish it off.
  9. Try putting a heavy recoil spring in the gun for a test. The gun may not cycle, and that's OK. Make it a single shot, if necessiary. Shoot for a group, and see if it changes anything. With too light of a recoil spring, your gun can unlock too early, or not lock up properly, which can cause a host of accuracy issues. I am not saying that this is your problem, but you can eliminate it as a cause, by doing this.
  10. I have the Dawson Ice magwell. I prefer the Dawson basepads, as they protrude more from the magwell, giving a more positive seating of the magazine. I originally used the Wilson pads, and found that too often, the mags did not fully seat, and experience the dredded one shot, and bombs away of the magazine.
  11. Never use Simple Green on aluminum, or any other home made solutions on your gun, unless you are a chemist. Most of the commercially made gun solvent solutions are safe, if used following directions. The danger lies, if you leave your gun immersed, for long periods. 5-10 minutes is enough. Generally alkaline solutions are considered safest for guns. Non baked on finishes are most at risk. I have found that Dawn dishwashing detergent is one of the safest to use. Not the most efficient, but it works. If there is any doubt about the finish on your gun, contact your gun manufacturer and ask. Here is a link to an article, that you might find useful. http://www.smallarmsreview.com/display.article.cfm?idarticles=2205
  12. I use shok buffs all the time on my 1911's. I tried aluminum ones, and poly. The aluminum ones, tend to peen flat rather quickley, and expand upwards, and rub on the underside of the barrel. Not good for reliability. Plus they cost more. I quit using them. I just use Buffer Technologies, poly buffs now. They hold up well, and I inspect them every time the gun is cleaned, and change out as required. I never had any issues with failure to lock back the slide, but with certain slidestops, and slide geometry, there is not enough rearward travel left, to disengage the slidestop, to slingshot the slide, due to the shok buff.
  13. Get a Cammer Hammer kit. Hammer, sear, disco, and springs, for about $150. This hammer is designed to cock with less effort, due to it's design. Perfect for low slide velocity 1911's, such as 1911 CF bullseye guns and 22 RF conversions. If you are going to buy a new ignition set, consider this. https://www.cammertechnologies.com/
  14. It is definitely faster to clean the gun parts manually, than ultrasonicly, but you will not get them as clean, as the ultrasonics will, especially the crevices in the slides and frames, and other intricate parts. Probably, using the ultrasonics, after a specified number of regular cleanings, and at the shooting seasons end, would be more worthwhile endeavor.
  15. I recently bought an ultrasonic cleaner. I purchased it mainly for cleaning of small engine parts, but I purchased an ultrasonic handgun cleaning kit along with it. I did a lot of research beforehand, on what the proper procedures are for cleaning handguns. Solutions designed for firearms are alkaline based, and are kind to firearm finishes, if cleaning cycles are of no more than 5-10 minutes, and parts are not allowed to soak for long periods of time. Night sights and FO sights are not normally affected. Neither are polymer frames, although many prefer to leave them out of the cleaner, and just do the metal parts. I have done some small aluminum parts, with no issues. It all depends on which solution you are using, and how long you leave it in, I guess. Finishes that are sprayed on, and not baked are most at risk. Having a heated tank, or adding hot tap water will improve cleaning efficiency. 130-140 degrees is usually enough, although some like to go higher. Wood grips need to be removed beforehand, but removing synthetic material grips is optional. I remove them all anyway. It is recommended that handguns be field stripped, and have excessive crud, oil and grease wiped off beforehand, so the cleaning solvent will be contaminated less, and last for more cleanings. The openings on all the submersed parts should be facing downward if possible. This allows the dirt someplace to go, and will accumulate at the bottom of the tank. You can pour the solvent through a cheesecloth afterwards, to filter out much of the crud. There are oil diapers made, that will only absorb oil. The cheesecloth treatment and putting a piece of the diaper, on top of the solvent will prolong the life of the solvent also. An oil bath is necessiary after cleaning, as all oils are removed from the metal pores, and rust will start shortly. Dipping in a tank of rust preventative oil is what is usually done, but it is a little messy. Spraying WD40, or other spray oil on the parts works also. Ultrasonic cleaning will not remove leading or copper fouling in my experience. Although I have not tried it yet, I have been told that a Dawn dishwashing liquid, and water mix, can be used as an ultrasonic cleaner solution for degreasing. Although not as efficient as the patent solutions, it is very gentle and biodegradable, and is supposed to work decently.
  16. Newton's law is in effect here. Unless the recoil energy is converted to heat, it is going to be there. The recoil reducing gadgets, often spread the recoil impulse over a longer time, giving the illusion of softer recoil. One aspect of recoil, to consider, not associated with PF or muzzle energy, is the jet action of the escaping gasses. Higher pressures at the muzzle, add to the physical recoil. Faster burning powders, will have lower gas pressure at the muzzle, contribute less to overall recoil. Not a whole lot, but noticeable. That's why Clays, and other similar powders are so popular in noncompensated guns.
  17. Vision, mobility and dexterity have declined enough with age, so now I just shoot for fun, and to spend time with friends. Final overall standings are not as important now, as they used to be.
  18. I have installed one of the DSperman springs, and they do make a difference.
  19. I have prescription shooting glasses, with a reading lens for the right eye. My optometrist was willing to work with me to get a 30 inch focal distance. Just right for the front sight on handguns and rifles both. When you first put the glasses on, your brain is confused for a minute, but after that, you don't even realize the lenses are different. The front sight is sharp, and you can still see the targets cleanly. Some people that get laser, or cataract surgery, get the eyes set up differently. One eye for close, and the other for distance. It does work.
  20. Try the Magpul grips, they have a coarse textured finish, and cost less than $20. Cheap enough to try, with little to lose. I have 3 sets on various 1911's.
  21. Ditto on Mahovsky for hard chrome. He calls it Metalife. Had 3 frames done by him. Typical turnaround is 30 days. Very reasonable pricing.
  22. Be careful of making your recoil spring coilbound, if you take off too much.
  23. I have the original safety back on and a heavier detent spring on the way. Problem solved.
  24. The standard safety I have, was originally fitted by the factory, so it should be a drop in. It came in the old parts bag from Cajun. Cajun put the mudflap safety on for the previous owner, and there is little or no tension to move it.
  25. I recently acquired, a little used Cajun Shadow 2. It was too good of a deal to pass up. The previous owner had it built to be carried cocked and locked, with the big mudflap safety installed. I hope at some time to try it in production division. The problem is, the existing safety activates so easily, it will surely come on during a match, so it's got to be addressed. You don't use this safety anyway, as you start with hammer down. I have the original safety, which I plan to install. What do I have to do to make this safety impossible to accidentally go on? Is it a spring or detent issue? If it was a 1911, fixing this would be a snap, but I am unfamiliar with the CZ platform, so this will be a learning curve.
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