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Hornady LNL Powder Measure on a Dillon 750 - works?


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I've searched and it seems this can be done, but the execution of this has me stumped.

 

Station Plan:

 

1. Resize

2. Lyman Expander M

3. Powder

4. Seat

5. Crimp

 

My initial setup is for 9mm.

 

Even with the Lower Case Drop Assembly screwed as deeply as possible - just above the shellpate - and using the longest powder bushing sleeve, there's not enough 'throw' to activate the measure.  I only get about 25% travel on the lever.  I've tinkered sliding the linkage assembly up and down on the upper bracket to no avail.

 

Help!

Edited by 1-12INF
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So it will work.

But not if you’re using a bullet feeder.

I used the LNL powder measure for years on a 550, but then discovered that with the bullet feeder die in the 650/750 there is no room for the LNL linkage. Just too tight.

If you aren’t using a bullet feeder just put it where you would normally put your powder die and situate the linkage so it doesn’t interfere with everything else. You might have to play with it a bit to find the perfect spot.

Now, I haven’t actually tried it on the 650, but I did screw the LNL into the tool head, at which point I discovered the issue. But had the bullet seating die not been there I see no reason it wouldn’t have worked.

Also if you have a powder check, probably gonna run into the same issue.

You will have to have a blank spot in the toolhead to make it work.


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I have enough room on the toolhead for it (no bullet feeder), but there's not nearly enough throw.  There cartridge case doesn't move it far enough to activate the measure.  Tinkering with adjusting the linkage on the body of the upper section hasn't helped a bit.

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I have enough room on the toolhead for it (no bullet feeder), but there's not nearly enough throw.  There cartridge case doesn't move it far enough to activate the measure.  Tinkering with adjusting the linkage on the body of the upper section hasn't helped a bit.

 

Hand you tried moving the die down further into the toolhead?

 

Hornady’s instructions on the powder measure are terrible, but there are some basic instructions. There a couple little tricks to making sure the linkage is setup correctly. The linkage doesn’t really change. It’s the depth of the die into the toolhead. Much like the Dillon powder measure in that sense.

 

The real tricky part is you are using one of the powder through expander dies for pistol. That’s all kinda of fun to get setup.

 

 

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Just figured it out... the Hornady directions say to put the powder bushing in with the deep counter sink facing up.  I reversed it, and now there's enough throw to activate the measure.
 
Huh.

Glad you figured it out. I love my Hornady measure on my 650. I haven’t even tried the Dillon yet since iv used the Hornady for about 2 years and know it is extremely consistent. I’ll probably try the Dillon out for 45 when I finally get around loading it so I don’t have to buy a new pistol plunger and because I want to try the Dillon eventually. But if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it right?


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After disassembly and cleaning, I just bought the pistol rotor and a glass hopper for my LNL.  I've never really liked the fail-safe rod on the Dillon, but I have since found out that I can get stepped, Lyman-M type expanders for the DIllon powder setup - so I could move the powder drop back to Station #4.  But I'm going to run the LNL at station 3 for a while and see how it goes.

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After disassembly and cleaning, I just bought the pistol rotor and a glass hopper for my LNL.  I've never really liked the fail-safe rod on the Dillon, but I have since found out that I can get stepped, Lyman-M type expanders for the DIllon powder setup - so I could move the powder drop back to Station #4.  But I'm going to run the LNL at station 3 for a while and see how it goes.

Where did you get the glass hopper from? I still have the old plastic one and the threads are stripped out and it’s all tinted from leaving powder in it too long


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2 minutes ago, looking4reloadingdeals said:


Where did you get the glass hopper from? I still have the old plastic one and the threads are stripped out and it’s all tinted from leaving powder in it too long


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He's probably talking about the Dram Works pyrex hoppers. $50 thing of beauty, mine came in yesterday.

 

https://dramworx.com/

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He's probably talking about the Dram Works pyrex hoppers. $50 thing of beauty, mine came in yesterday.
 
https://dramworx.com/

Ouch, kinda pricey, but they look super nice. For how much I use mine I’ll probably invest in one. Except for not getting stained by the powder, what else does the glass do for you? Anything?


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2 hours ago, looking4reloadingdeals said:


Ouch, kinda pricey, but they look super nice. For how much I use mine I’ll probably invest in one. Except for not getting stained by the powder, what else does the glass do for you? Anything?


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So far it's only installed, not staining and shrinking is the main appeal, appears to have much less static, threads into the measure solid, has an o-ringed cap so leaving it full should be just fine.

 

k5AOLbM.jpg?1

 

Edited by Beef15
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Two reasons - first I wanted to use the Lyman M expansion die so as to avoid 'coke bottle' effect on finished cartridges, and that meant moving powder to station 3.  And second, I don't like the fail-safe rod system and think the LNL measure (using the bench rest one, too) is more accurate.

 

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Two reasons - first I wanted to use the Lyman M expansion die so as to avoid 'coke bottle' effect on finished cartridges, and that meant moving powder to station 3.  And second, I don't like the fail-safe rod system and think the LNL measure (using the bench rest one, too) is more accurate.
 

Again, I haven’t used my dillon measure yet, but I will say the Hornady is extremely accurate, I also do a two stage expansion as well, so my powder measure is in station 3 as well


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The Hornady excels in super fine powders, and extruded rile powders.

 

The Dillon can have a tendency to get “gummed” up by the super fine small powders. It’s still accurate, but can be a little messy with certain powders. AA#5 and AA#9 specifically come to mind.

 

The Hornady can be a little more work to get set up, especially if you are using the powder through expanders, and Hornady’s directions are confusingly short and not good, but once you get it set up it’s very accurate.

 

It’s all relative

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I`ve used them all, and i keep going back to the hornady powder measure`s. For some people, its hard for them to set it up. Its not at all hard to set up, if you understand the concept of how it works. It is also the most accurate and consistent powder measure i`ve ever used on a progressive press. It stays where you put it, and zero powder falls out of it, (unlike some brands we know). The hornady powder measure is not fussy about what powder you run in it either. Best to also use a powder baffle too.

 

The biggest gripe i`ve got with hornady, is that they dont polish there PTX powder die`s. If you dont polish it where the case gets expanded, the cases hang up terrible and cause you to use excessive force to pull it down off the expander. I also use a dri-lube too. Dump my brass in a gallon zip-lock, spray the cases, roll the bag around, dump the cases on the bench, let them dry for 10 or 15 mins, start loading them. The dri-lube makes my cases run thru my loader as if you were slipping on ice. Super smooth loading with no reloading effort. If your working harder, your not working smarter. 

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2 hours ago, 1-12INF said:

Sounds good vince, what dry lube do you use?  One of those spray-on graphite ones?

 

I dont recommend graphite for case lube.

 

There is only one that i use that is the same as what the hornady case lube is, except its about a 1/4 of the price as the hornady (5.5oz) labeled brand and you get alot more from the LW 11oz can. You can get it most anywhere, even in walmart in the RV section in the automotive departments. It is the LiquidWrench RV Dry-Lube 11oz can.

 

Dont mistake it for the regular dry-lube, its NOT the same, and dont buy the PB Blaster dri-lube either, its not the same ingredients. Most contain silicone, the LW RV Dry-Lube does not. 

 

The LW RV Dri-lube is the only one that is the same as what hornady sells. LW RV dosent effect your powder. I`ll try to up load a picture of the exact one i only use for reloading lube.

I also use it on all my recoil springs in ALL my guns. I toss a shot of it down inside my mags too. Help the mags work more freely.

 

 

LiquidWrench RV Dry Lubricant "Specifically Formulated For RV Slide-out`s"

 

Image result for Liquid Wrench RV Dry-lube

 

 

 

Here is what Hornady sells people for $16 buck a can, and its only a small 5.5oz can, which dosent go very far.

With the LW RV Dry-Lube, you can buy 4 cans of it for what your getting out of the hornady brand, which is the same stuff, for $4 buck a can.

 

Image result for Hornady dry lube

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27 minutes ago, Sarge said:

$16 a can. It’s only about 9 bucks if you look around. But if the other stuff is as good then that’s worth looking into

Yeah i`ve seen it cheaper, just not where i live. It averages around $12 $13.

Most of the gun shops around me gouge their customers here pretty hard.

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2 hours ago, vince said:

Yeah i`ve seen it cheaper, just not where i live. It averages around $12 $13.

Most of the gun shops around me gouge their customers here pretty hard.

 

Thanks, I'll try the  LiquidWrench RV Dry-Lube suggestion. I love hornady one shot aerosol. It just makes reloading actually enjoyable. 

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37 minutes ago, edison said:

 

Thanks, I'll try the  LiquidWrench RV Dry-Lube suggestion. I love hornady one shot aerosol. It just makes reloading actually enjoyable. 

I think you`ll be pretty happy with it. The money you`ll save can go towards other reloading stuff. Now who doesn`t love that ;)

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