Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

S&W M&P 15-22 vs Nordic Components upper?


grottulf

Recommended Posts

I'm thinking of buying a new rifle for IPSC mini-rifle competition.

The S&W M&P 15-22 cost nearly the same as a Nordic components RB-22 upper here.

And I'm not sure what route to take...

 

If I buy the NC upper, I could use the lower from my NEA-15, wich has a really great JP trigger kit.

 

But on the other hand, a complete weapon is always nice to have... :)

 

Are there any differences in reliability?

 

Is one faster to shoot than the other?

 

Is the trigger/hammer in the S&W compatible with all AR triggers?

 

I know that the S&W is lighter, but I'm not sure if I consider that a disadvantage or not...

 

 

 

Skickat från min SM-G950F via Tapatalk

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, No, and Maybe.

 

Yes, the 15-22 is more reliable than the Nordic.  Mostly because of the better magazines. 

 

No, the 15-22 is not compatible with ALL AR triggers, it will work with MOST, but like the Nordic and most other .22 AR, the firing pin is just a little bit higher than in a centerfire bolt and not all hammers will hit the firing pin. 

 

Maybe, the Nordic may work with your JP trigger.  I have not run a JP trigger with my Nordic.  I have run Jard, Geissele SSA, & Hiperfire 24C in my Nordic upper.

The 15-22 is considerably lighter so you may be able to transition a little quicker, but the trade off is less stability for longer off-hand shots, so again maybe?

 

If you go with the Nordic, if you can buy a Better Mag adapter in Sweden, get one.  It lets you run the better 15-22 magazines and has a functioning LRBHO.  The Black Dog magazines used by the Nordic and most other .22 AR do not activate the bolt stop.  Instead the bolt is held open when it hits the empty magazine follower and the bolt drops to  battery when the magazine is removed.

 

Oops, my bad!  I have the Better Mag Adapter in my both of my CMMG type .22 AR.  I don't have one in the Nordic, which leads me to the question of why there isn't one?  It may or may not work, but I don't recall if I've tried it.  They say as you get older the first two things to go are your memory and something else???

Edited by Ming the Merciless
Link to comment
Share on other sites



Yes, No, and Maybe.
 
Yes, the 15-22 is more reliable than the Nordic.  Mostly because of the better magazines. 
 
No, the 15-22 is not compatible with ALL AR triggers, it will work with MOST, but like the Nordic and most other .22 AR, the firing pin is just a little bit higher than in a centerfire bolt and not all hammers will hit the firing pin. 
 
Maybe, the Nordic may work with your JP trigger.  I have not run a JP trigger with my Nordic.  I have run Jard, Geissele SSA, & Hiperfire 24C in my Nordic upper.
The 15-22 is considerably lighter so you may be able to transition a little quicker, but the trade off is less stability for longer off-hand shots, so again maybe?
 
If you go with the Nordic, if you can buy a Better Mag adapter in Sweden, get one.  It lets you run the better 15-22 magazines and has a functioning LRBHO.  The Black Dog magazines used by the Nordic and most other .22 AR do not activate the bolt stop.  Instead the bolt is held open when it hits the empty magazine follower and the bolt drops to  battery when the magazine is removed.
 
Oops, my bad!  I have the Better Mag Adapter in my both of my CMMG type .22 AR.  I don't have one in the Nordic, which leads me to the question of why there isn't one?  It may or may not work, but I don't recall if I've tried it.  They say as you get older the first two things to go are your memory and something else???


Thanks for all the input!
I think I read somewhere that the better mag adapter needed som modification for LRBHO to work with the NC upper.

In my research I've also found that my BAD-lever wont work with the NC upper.
So if I go that route, I'll probably remove that lever completely.
I mostly use it to lock the action open when "showing clear " to the RO anyway, and I could just hold the charging handle while showing it instead.

And I think I can live without LRBHO. If I've shot a mag empty I've one something wrong anyway...[emoji849]

It would be nice if I could use my lower just as it is.
But it sounds like I would need that adapter anyway, for the gun to be reliable...?

I'm planning on going to a local dealer to look at the S&W next week.
None of the local dealers seems to have the NC upper in stock though.

But I'd love to hear more input from you guys as well!


Skickat från min SM-G950F via Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went to the dealer to look at a 15-22 today.
My first impression was that the standard version is really light!
He also had the performance center version,
I liked the weight and balance on that one alot better.
But I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the price difference. The PC version costed 67% more [emoji15] (roughly $1170 vs $700)
I don't think the trigger was that much better. The standard trigger was actually quite ok.

Are there other differences I should be aware of, other than the trigger and the barrel?
How much better is the precision in the PC version?

Other than that, I really liked the simplicity of the construction.
I liked how it's easy to take apart and clean.
Not that I do that very often...[emoji849]
And I'm not discouraged by the polymer chassi.
I shoot glocks after all :)

He happened to have a Hämmerli TAC R1 22 in stock as well. So I took a look at that one as well, while I was there.
The initial impression was that it felt more "solid", but that feeling faded fast when I inspected it closer. The internals looks like pot metal, and it looked more like a soft air gun, than a real gun.
It even made my GSG-522 feel like a high end rifle[emoji15].




Skickat från min SM-G950F via Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The specs on S&W:s homepage says that the PC version is only 30g (1.1 oz) heavier.
Can that really be correct?
I'm having a hard time believing that could have made such a difference in balance...
But if it is true, I guess a wheel weight inside the handguard would do the trick... [emoji848]


Skickat från min SM-G950F via Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Save your money, the PC version isn't worth the extra cost.  It has a 'slightly' tighter chamber and slightly different furniture.  I couldn't tell the difference between the triggers on the ones I've shot.

 

The Umarex/Walther/Hammerli TAC R1 .22 AR is not a true AR, almost no parts interchange. There are a whole series of these look-alike rifles constructed like an airsoft rifle, with an aluminum body that looks like a AR/UZI/Sig/HK/M16/M4/whatever, with a Zamac pot metal cartridge inside that contains the trigger, and bolt.  The small diameter steel barrel fits inside the look-alike barrel and is tensioned by the flash hider.  They were originally made to be sold in countries that don't allow military weapons or guns that contain military weapon parts.

 

Nolan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just asked him to reserve the MOE 15-22 for me [emoji16]
Now I just have to renew my shooting test, wait for my club to vouch for me, and then after 1-2 months hopefully get a license for it before I can take it home...[emoji2959]


Skickat från min SM-G950F via Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't got the rifle yet, but I'm already thinking about updates [emoji16].

 

I liked the stock handguard, but the fact that it isn't free floating doesn't feel right...

 

But the question is, does it really matter in a rifle lile this?

 

On a side note, what where they thinking when they decided to sell it with the Magpul MOE SL grip...?

The radius between the grip and the stock isn't even close to that of an AR [emoji15]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2f7823fc6793668aabc836036a1c0b45.jpg

 

Skickat från min SM-G950F via Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Grottulf, go over to the Rimfire Central forum.  They have a section just for the M&P 15-22 with lots of good information.  It's easy to free float the handguard, but it does require some different techniques than a regular AR.  To remove the flash hider, you have to grip the barrel because if you clamp the upper receiver, the barrel will spin in the poly receiver and ruin it.

 

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=305

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...