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Is Sig 1911 frame differ between 9 mm and 45 ACP


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Jim, 9mm and 45 slide stops are different, as are the ejectors.  If you don't mind swapping these parts out every time you change uppers, you are good to go.  You do not need a ramped barrel for 9mm standard ammo.  Thousands of people shoot them every day.  If it was at all dangerous, absolutely no one would be making standard 9mm barrels.


I question the wisdom of buying a Sig 1911 45 frame and then going to the expense of having a new top end fit to it.  By the time you got done the cost would be the same, or nearly so, of buying a good 9mm 1911.  You still see new Springfield Armory Range Officers in 9mm for $700.

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Before you do any of the following (which I would do anyway), make sure your overtravel adjustment is not the cause of the problem.  To much and stuff rubs.  Back the screw out at least one complete turn and see it the reset is less grinchy.  If it still is, back it out another turn.  If you are still not happy with it, do the following.


As far as I know you cannot adjust the reset point without changing internals.  Even then it would only be by a tad.  You can do a complete trigger job and series 80 polish.  Everyone complains about the trigger pull on the Sig Max.  Fortunately, they come with good internals so a little work will make them perfect.


Disassemble the gun.  Polish everything.  Use a Brownell's trigger track stone to stone the trigger ways.  Use the stone to polish the sides of the trigger shoe channel.  Polish the sides of the trigger bow.  While I'm at it I polish the sides of the hammer to make sure there are no high spots.  Next polish the series 80 parts, especially the plunger.


Next comes the hard part.  You have to make sure the sear and hammer engagement is correct, and the sear nose profile is correct.  That is hard to do without special alignment pins and magnification.  Before you go out and buy this stuff, use as much magnification as you have to inspect the sear nose and the hammer hooks.  If they look good, mark the hammer hooks with Dykem or a magic marker.  Reassemble the gun and adjust the left and center legs of the sear spring for a three pound pull.  dry fire a dozen times and disassemble.  Inspect the hammer hooks and shelf.  If the marking has been removed evenly you are good to go.  Adjust the sear spring legs to give you the take up weight you want and the sear pressure.  Those two combine to give you your trigger weight.  Make sure your pretravel and overtravel are set correctly.


I would do this on any new Sig I bought.  My Tacops came from the custom shop, and I still hard to go through this process to get a perfect 2 lb trigger pull while retaining the series 80 parts.

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6 hours ago, zzt said:


Thank you very much again.

I have check the overtravel adjustments. They seem okay. Current trigger pull weight at 2.7 lbs. (Set to same like my Shadow 2 SA pull weight).Very minimum take up and

"nice break". (To me nice break mean I do not feel the break, no "wall", just pull though, only realize the hammer drop.)

I have polished all the series 80 parts and trigger. I have not touch disconnector, sear, and hammer yet. I can feel the sharp edges from those parts, but I were not sure I should smooth them out a bit or not. (Parts are so nice and no marks at all) With my other cheap 1911 use MIM part, I do not keep any sharp edges except sear. hammer engagement. That give me a not so "positive" reset.

I let other try the reset and they said not bad. They like the "positive" reset. That "positive" reset is not what I like. I do not want to feel that reset at all if possible.

It feels like something jump/pop upward. I am thinking I may need to work on the where sear and disconnector contact like below picture. But I am not sure how they should contact to provide a "nice feel" (to me mean no feeling when they disconnect. Can you help me understand their relationship?

Thank you again.





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If I understand what you are saying, your goals are mutually exclusive.  It sounds like you have a lot of pressure on the disconnector by the middle arm of the sear spring.  That is the only way I can think of that you do not feel the wall after the pretravel is taken up.    If you do have a lot of pressure, when you release the trigger after firing the spring is going to drive the disconnector up hard and you will feel it.


BTW, if you have minimal pretravel, make sure your hack cock notch works.

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On 2/9/2019 at 5:03 PM, zzt said:




Another question.

I have  measured the pre and over travel last night.

Pre-travel at 0.045

overtravel at 0.045

Is this good numbers? I am more of a CZ guy so anything within 0.100 is good to me.

But I do want to know what is good as generally accepted by 1911/2011 shooter.

Thank you very much again

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They are not bad.  Pretravel has to be enough for the hack cock to work.  That could be .030" or .040".  It's possible that it may be less, but unlikely IMO.  Over travel has to be long enough to allow the trigger to reset.  Too much is not bad.  All it does is increase the reset distance.  Too little is bad and risks damage to the sear nose, etc.  I prefer to stay on the plus side of minimums, just so I have 100% reliability.  The gun is going to get dirty when you use it.  You don't want to have a problem where a piece of grit causes a ftf because you set everything up on the hairy edge.


Here is a link to a good info on a lot of 1911/2011 stuff.  http://www.brazoscustom.com/Home.htm   Click on Magazine Articles, then select Tuning for maximum performance.  All of his other articles are worth a read to familiarize yourself with the 1911/2011 world.

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