New CZ 75 B owner

[AnonymousCitizen]

I have a glossy stainless CZ 75 B that is trying to convince me to give up Glocks - first time at the range yesterday with the CZ and my groupings were far better than anything I ever get with any of my Glocks.  First two things I'm gonna do are to put a more visible sight on it, and I like the Hogue wrap-around grips. 

 

As I'm new to this gun and learning about it, at this point, I have a couple of questions, with more to follow, I'm sure:

 

1. with the slide off the gun, is the Firing Pin Block Stop supposed to be fully extended so it's even with the raised section in the middle of the underside of the slide? Mine is slightly depressed and it doesn't "look right" compared to other guns I have with this kind of firing pin block - also, the firing pin also seems a lot harder to push forward when the firing pin block is pushed in than other similar pistols I have that have firing pin blocks - like the spring is a lot stronger.
2. with the slide off and the barrel and recoil spring out, there's a fair amount of resistance where the bottom of the slide first engages with the two "nubs" on the top of the trigger bar, and then moving the slide back further there's even more resistance when the slide is moving back to just before and after where the dis-assembly notches line up - is this normal?

 

[thompsoncustom]

1. Ya that all sounds normal

 

2. The nubs your hitting are held up by 2 springs underneath them which is were you getting some resistance. 

 

when the slide Mark's are lined up the rear of the slide is probably fighting the hammer causing the resistance there. Cock the hammer and see if that changes it, will still be some when the slide runs over the hammer.

[M1A4ME]

1.  My P01's firing pin block is also slightly "up" when the side is off the frame.  So, probably normal (never really paid much attention to it.)  The firing pin return spring is a nice stout spring - like all the CZ springs.  They make them for "duty" use.  Military, police, etc.   You can buy target/competition CZ's but yours and mine were not built for that.  You can modify it/have it modified for target/competition use (yeah, you can actually make it shoot better than it currently does-ain't that wild.)  Now you know why my glock/xdm/m&p/browning pistols are in the safe these days).

2. When the slide contacts those raised humps on the trigger bar you get a combination of friction and working against the trigger bar spring to push the trigger bar down, that's normal.  Once it gets over those humps and the slide is in place you'll have to move the slide backwards to line up the take down marks and it has to move the hammer back to half cock, so you're also fighting the hammer spring plus friction of moving the parts.  Go ahead and move the hammer back to the half cock position with your thumb, then line up the take down marks and see how it feels.

 

Keep it clean.  Keep it lubed.  Most CZ folks say after you shoot it about 500 rounds you'll be able to tell how much it smooths itself out.

[AnonymousCitizen]

Thanks very much guys - being relatively new to these guns, I don't know a lot about what's normal - I appreciate the enlightenment! 

 

I am thinking about removing the firing pin block stop, spring, and lifter, and putting in one of those spacers (https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/fire-control/cz-75b-firing-pin-lifter-spacer.html).  I've done the same thing on all of my Series 80 1911s - I just don't like the blocks.  I'm guessing that the CZs are relatively similar to the 1911s as far as the function of the firing pin block and that reliability won't be compromised with the block removed and the spacer in place?   The complexity of putting in the spacer looks to be a bit more with the CZ, versus the 1911, but that's why Al Gore invented the internet, and YouTube, too, I guess. 

Edited January 28, 2019 by AnonymousCitizen

[GeneBray]

Polishing on the internals will help a lot.  There is a great link on Enos on what to do -- 

 

[AnonymousCitizen]

Thanks - I'd seen that link and I will move it to the top of my to do list.  Any thoughts taking the lifter out and replacing it with the spacer, or removing the lifter AND the existing CZ-75B sear, and replacing both of those parts with a CZ-75 sear??

[matir]

Just now, AnonymousCitizen said:

Thanks - I'd seen that link and I will move it to the top of my to do list.  Any thoughts taking the lifter out and replacing it with the spacer, or removing the lifter AND the existing CZ-75B sear, and replacing both of those parts with a CZ-75 sear??

 

Both of those should work just fine, I know people who have removed the lifter and used the spacer with no problems.

 

If this is a competition pistol, note that you can't remove the FPB and compete in USPSA production per Rule 22 in Appendix D4.

[GeneBray]

On 1/28/2019 at 5:24 AM, AnonymousCitizen said:

Thanks very much guys - being relatively new to these guns, I don't know a lot about what's normal - I appreciate the enlightenment! 

 

I am thinking about removing the firing pin block stop, spring, and lifter, and putting in one of those spacers (https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/fire-control/cz-75b-firing-pin-lifter-spacer.html).  I've done the same thing on all of my Series 80 1911s - I just don't like the blocks.  I'm guessing that the CZs are relatively similar to the 1911s as far as the function of the firing pin block and that reliability won't be compromised with the block removed and the spacer in place?   The complexity of putting in the spacer looks to be a bit more with the CZ, versus the 1911, but that's why Al Gore invented the internet, and YouTube, too, I guess. 

Depends on what you want to use the pistol for.  If shooting USPSA you cannot disable any safety in Production/CO.  IDPA have not idea.

 

You can simply remove the FP block stop and spring.  Use the lifter as the spacer.  I have 1st hand experience with this until USPSA changed their rules.  Also a polishing and lighting the FPBSS makes a lot of difference.  I feel the FPBS when slowly dry firing the pistol -- working on the DA 1st shot.  Never notice it in practice or a match.  

[AnonymousCitizen]

Thanks again - this gun is just gonna be a range gun, for now - I'm leaning towards just modifying the lifter, polishing some of the internals, and calling it good.

[AnonymousCitizen]

All done !  Thanks for all the guidance and suggestions.  I bought some replacement parts from Cajun (floating trigger pin, spacer to replace the lifter, and a firing pin retaining pin), a Single Action trigger from CZ (CGWs was out of stock), Hogue wrap around finger groove grips, a front sight from Hiviz, some additional Dremel polishing bits, and I got to work.  I found a few dis-assembly \ re-assembly videos on Youtube that helped me along.  One thing that I found kind of odd, was that little pin that's used to retain the hammer pin - I understand what it's doing and why it's necessary, but it just looks kind of out of place to me.