AnonymousCitizen

Thanks, Mike - I tried swapping the slides, and while each slide fits on the other receiver, the .45 ACP slide going on to what was originally the 9mm receiver is a VERY tight fit - almost to the point where I'm not sure that it'd cycle properly with live ammo. I'm really hesitant to try any "fitting adjustments" to either the .45 ACP slide or the 9mm receiver, in fear of ruining one or both guns - I'm not even sure whether it'd be the slide or the receiver that'd need "fitting" - any suggestions?

I have two EAA Witness large frame pistols - 9mm and 45 ACP - the 9mm gun has a rail, and the 45 ACP does not - I want the gun with the rail for a nightstand gun with a light \ laser, BUT I want it with a 45 ACP upper - the 9mm and 45 ACP mags seem to be interchangeable, but I'm wondering if anyone knows whether the slides might the slides be interchangeable? Asking before I try something stupid that might damage the guns . . . THANKS!

Yeah, looking at pictures of both guns, it looks like the dust cover on the Witness is a lot shorter than the dust cover on the CZ - I may have to hunt for a model of the Witness .45 that has a rail, or a CZ 97B that'll be able to take the rail shown by CZ Custom - LOL, finding anything in the category of "firearm" is gonna be a challenge these days!

My Large Frame Witness .45 ACP is a great gun - but mine doesn't have a rail - will my Witness Large Frame .45 ACP be able to accommodate an accessory rail, for which the manufacturer states "Designed to fit the contour of the CZ 97B Frame ONLY. (https://czcustom.com/czc-97b-picatinny-accessory-rail.html)". I want to put a light\laser on the gun, and I don't want to have to buy a new Witness .45 that already has a rail. How close is the Witness .45 Large Frame to a CZ 97 B? Thanks !

124gr9mm - "The magazines MUST have a metal spacing/retention clip on them or they will not cycle rounds reliably. The magazine will seat into the mag well if the clip isn't there, but it will cycle like garbage." - I'm not sure what you're referring to - I'm looking at a picture of the magazine on the EAA web site (http://eaacorp.com/gun_accessories/index.php/parts/tanfoglio/witness/magazine/large-frame/22lr.html), and don't see a metal spacing / retention clip - please explain - thanks!

User "slimpartywagon" sent me the following PM after I sent a PM to him about a post he made regarding the 22LR slide: __________ The firing pin has to be pushed way in. I used a small Allen Key to get it past the block. I am glad you found my thread useful. __________ I haven't tried his suggestion yet, but I'll report back when I do. I've had similar good results with the hi-velocity 22LR ammo in the EAA Witness 22LR upper, as with pretty much any gun that shoots 22LR and has problems with normal 22LR ammo - I use CCI Stingers (muzzle velocity = 1640) and CCI Velocitors (muzzle velocity = 1435), but what I was getting frustrated with was a requirement for 22LR hi-velocity -I wanted to shoot normal 22LR, reliably, like I do in my Ruger pistols and rifles. (Winchester 333 @ 1280, and Remington Golden Bullet @ 1280). Another tip I picked up somewhere had to do with something called "buzzing the chamber" - keeping the chamber completely clean.

I have a 22LR kit that I use on a full size Tanfoglio (EAA Witness) .45 - it's been back to customer service for fitting, and it's still not reliable - I would like to make a few changes to the upper, mainly removing the firing pin safety, but I haven't been able to figure out how to get the firing pin safety out of the 22LR slide - the firing pin retainer comes off OK, but the firing pin will not come out when I push in on the firing pin safety either partially or fully. One post I read somewhere mentioned pulling the firing pin out brute force with a pliers and finding a burr on the firing pin or the safety that was preventing the pin from coming out, but before I try that approach, I thought I'd check here - what's the correct approach to get the firing pin out? Thanks!

All done ! Thanks for all the guidance and suggestions. I bought some replacement parts from Cajun (floating trigger pin, spacer to replace the lifter, and a firing pin retaining pin), a Single Action trigger from CZ (CGWs was out of stock), Hogue wrap around finger groove grips, a front sight from Hiviz, some additional Dremel polishing bits, and I got to work. I found a few dis-assembly \ re-assembly videos on Youtube that helped me along. One thing that I found kind of odd, was that little pin that's used to retain the hammer pin - I understand what it's doing and why it's necessary, but it just looks kind of out of place to me.

Thanks again - this gun is just gonna be a range gun, for now - I'm leaning towards just modifying the lifter, polishing some of the internals, and calling it good.

Thanks - I'd seen that link and I will move it to the top of my to do list. Any thoughts taking the lifter out and replacing it with the spacer, or removing the lifter AND the existing CZ-75B sear, and replacing both of those parts with a CZ-75 sear??

Thanks very much guys - being relatively new to these guns, I don't know a lot about what's normal - I appreciate the enlightenment! I am thinking about removing the firing pin block stop, spring, and lifter, and putting in one of those spacers (https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/fire-control/cz-75b-firing-pin-lifter-spacer.html). I've done the same thing on all of my Series 80 1911s - I just don't like the blocks. I'm guessing that the CZs are relatively similar to the 1911s as far as the function of the firing pin block and that reliability won't be compromised with the block removed and the spacer in place? The complexity of putting in the spacer looks to be a bit more with the CZ, versus the 1911, but that's why Al Gore invented the internet, and YouTube, too, I guess.

I have a glossy stainless CZ 75 B that is trying to convince me to give up Glocks - first time at the range yesterday with the CZ and my groupings were far better than anything I ever get with any of my Glocks. First two things I'm gonna do are to put a more visible sight on it, and I like the Hogue wrap-around grips. As I'm new to this gun and learning about it, at this point, I have a couple of questions, with more to follow, I'm sure: with the slide off the gun, is the Firing Pin Block Stop supposed to be fully extended so it's even with the raised section in the middle of the underside of the slide? Mine is slightly depressed and it doesn't "look right" compared to other guns I have with this kind of firing pin block - also, the firing pin also seems a lot harder to push forward when the firing pin block is pushed in than other similar pistols I have that have firing pin blocks - like the spring is a lot stronger. with the slide off and the barrel and recoil spring out, there's a fair amount of resistance where the bottom of the slide first engages with the two "nubs" on the top of the trigger bar, and then moving the slide back further there's even more resistance when the slide is moving back to just before and after where the dis-assembly notches line up - is this normal?