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Glock 34 Won't Release Striker


Clay1

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About 7000 rounds through the gun. I'm at the range tonight and fire about ten rounds I put my finger on the trigger and pull it completely to the rear and the striker would not release. Tap, rack, no bang again. Another tap, rack and no bang, another and one round fires then nothing again. As you Glock shooters know the trigger is in quite a different position when the gun is in the ready to fire position vs when the striker has already been released.

I pulled the slide off and took it totally apart. Cleaned the striker channel out which was clean already. I removed the extractor, the plunger and the striker assembly. I tore the striker assembly all the way down and reassembled. Didn't change a thing. I pulled the 3 pins and removed the trigger group and cleaned and inspected and reassembled. No change.

I can get the striker to fall during dry fire with no mag in the gun and with an empty mag in the gun but when rounds are loaded it won't function. I tried multiple mags and that wasn't the issue. I pulled out my other G34 and shot the same mags in the gun and everything functioned properly.

The trigger safety does function and while the slide was off I pushed the plunger in the the striker falls forward with absolutely no resistance. It will allow the striker to fall forward with it tilted only 10 or 15 degrees from horizontal and when vertical it's a piece of cake. Can't figure this one out and could use a little help from my friends.

Rick

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Cracked slide or frame rails? I'm speculating that when you insert a loaded mag, the rear of the slide lifts enough to cause the trigger bar tab to not engage the striker? Saw the bottom half off a slide cover plate, so you can see what's going on inside.......

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Clay ,

Take the upper from the functional 34 and try it on the lower of the disfunctional one first. Then reverse the process.

If it works - you have isolated the problem - sort of.

Other than that ,the only thing I can think of , is to replace the springs* with brand new stock items and see if that corrects the problem.

*striker (including those little cups) , trigger return and plunger.

First I have ever heard of a problem like that.

M

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Are you sure the gun is going into full battery? Also see if the firing pin/striker is magnetized? Is it battering the striker or the plunger where they meet? Do the test where you watch for slide movement during the complete trigger pull. Is your recoil system stock?

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I've looked over the slide pretty seriously and found nothing wrong with it. As far as being in battery that was checked at the range and again tonight. I did swap the slides since I have two of these things and the problem stays with the frame and doesn't follow the slide. I did pull out my Wolf Ultimate overtravel stop and replace it with the stock one that came with the gun. I wonder what I could have put back together wrong. I put the Ultimate Overtravel stop back in and see what happens. I am getting it to produce the problem without a mag now and with an empty mag. It isn't just isolated to rounds in the mag like I first thought. Put a stock recoil spring in and still does the same thing.

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Damn strangest thing that I have ever seen. I put the Ultimate Overtravel Stop back in the gun and fired 50 times without a mag in the mag well and no issues, then inserted a mag and fired 50 more times. 100 shots without an issue.

I don't get it, the thing is just a stock ejector housing with a set screw. Any ideas for me. I might swap it out with the original again and see if I can recreate the problem.

Rick

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Damn strangest thing that I have ever seen.  I put the Ultimate Overtravel Stop back in the gun and fired 50 times without a mag in the mag well and no issues, then inserted a mag and fired 50 more times.  100 shots without an issue. 

I don't get it, the thing is just a stock ejector housing with a set screw.  Any ideas for me.  I might swap it out with the original again and see if I can recreate the problem.

Rick

My guess would be that the screw is moving.

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Your problem is definitely the over travel screw in your lone wolf trigger housing. If you back out the screw ¼ to ½ of a turn it should work fine again. After you have it working take your calipers, and measure the distance of the over travel screw. Then screw it out, put a drop of blue loctite in the hole, and replace the screw to the measured distance.

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Trigger spring is fine and 300 pound the problem exists not with the Wolf Ultimate Overtravel installed it happens with the stock ejector. I think that I am narrowing it down some.

You know when you pull the slide off and just look at the connector and where the trigger bar meet? The same place that you place a drop of oil for lubrication. The connector and the trigger bar have more space between them than the other G35. I bent the connector out away from the ejector housing a very small amount and the problem seems to have went away. Over 200 dry fires now without the problem.

Has anyone else seen this before?

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Wrong, I smacked on the bottom of the empty mag similarly to a tap, rack and the problem reoccurred. NO IDEA what the hell is up with this thing! Stock ejector is in the gun. Will replace it with the Wolf Ultimate Overtravel and see if I can make the problem go away again.

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Trigger spring is fine and 300 pound the problem exists not with the Wolf Ultimate Overtravel installed it happens with the stock ejector.  I think that I am narrowing it down some. 

You know when you pull the slide off and just look at the connector and where the trigger bar meet?  The same place that you place a drop of oil for lubrication.  The connector and the trigger bar have more space between them than the other G35.  I bent the connector out away from the ejector housing a very small amount and the problem seems to have went away.  Over 200 dry fires now without the problem. 

Has anyone else seen this before?

Did you try just swapping out the connector with a new one? The connector is suppose to be a little springy right? Maybe it's just overworked from use or from bending? I ruined a 5lb connector by "over working" it while experimenting a while back and the trigger would not re-set.

Just a thought

Rockclimbg

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Rockclimbing, thanks man. It was the connector angle in the ejector housing. I just had to bend it a little bit and everything seems back to normal. Just pulled the slide back and took off of the rear plate and pulled the striker for disassembly. The next range session should tell the whole story. Thanks again.

Rick

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Rockclimbing, thanks man.  It was the connector angle in the ejector housing.  I just had to bend it a little bit and everything seems back to normal.  Just pulled the slide back and took off of the rear plate and pulled the striker for disassembly.  The next range session should tell the whole story.  Thanks again.

Rick

No prob. Let us know how it turns out for ya.

Rockclimbg

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I just posted on Glock talk about my trigger and not resetting very well. You know if you pull the trigger and pin it back and not let it forward and then work the slide manually and then let the trigger out slowly you can feel that positive reset? Well it was gone in this gun. With your help and even though I WASN'T using a Ghost Rocket connector their site had this trouble shooting guide:

SECTION III: TROUBLE SHOOTING

PROBLEM

SOLUTION

Pistol does not fire TCT is too long

Pistol fires sluggishly TCT is too long

Trigger does not reset Connector bent too far inwards, bend out slightly

Light primer strikes Replace firing pin spring with an extra power spring

Light primer strikes Option 2-Shorten TCT an additional .001 until pistol fires

Trigger feels rough Check connector surfaces for burrs of metal caused by the shortening process.

Anyhow I bent it out some and the trigger reset is back and all is well in Glock land once more. B)

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One last note. It probably occurred while pulling the connector in and out of the housing while changing from the Ultimate Overtravel stop to the factory one.

Never heard of this one before, but one more thing in the library of experience with the plastic gun.

Rick

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One last note.  It probably occurred while pulling the connector in and out of the housing while changing from the Ultimate Overtravel stop to the factory one. 

Never heard of this one before, but one more thing in the library of experience with the plastic gun.

Rick

Just a thought, it might be worth replacing the connector if it has been bent around a lot. Some steel isn't crazy about bending and can "set." Lucky Glocks parts are nice and cheap and think of all the Gunsmithing fee's you have already saved! :D

Rockclimbg

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If you were going to order another connector would you order a Std Glock 3.5 connector or a Ghost Rocket connector? You're right they are relatively cheap. Maybe should get both and play around.

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I've had better luck with stock Glock parts but everyone's opinion will vary. I wasn't crazy about the ghost connector and if you already have an over-travel stop in your trigger housing, I fail to see how the Ghost connector will do anything for you.

On a side note, the last bunch of parts I ordered was from Lone Wolf Dist. and the finish was different from what I've seen in the past. So far it hasn't caused any problems but some of the trigger bar angles needed tweaking and smoothed out. I don't know if that's just the way Glock parts are now or if I was shipped something other than factory Glock. Either way, next time I need something it will be from Glockmeister or CGR.

Rockclimbg

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Make sure the connector fits tight in the trigger housing as well.. It should take quite a bit of force to remove it. Other wise it will walk on you. Make sure your trigger pin hole in the trigger is not elongated as well.... The trigger bar rides right next to your mag inside the frame so check that as well... I've had small particles get wedged in various spots also prevent the striker from releasing.....

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