jimbullet Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 New to Tanfolgio but is it correct that if I have a stock 3, and bought extreme parts, they are simply drop in and its all ready to go? What would be the very basic parts that need to be changed if I wanted the trigger to be a bit lighter yet production Div legal? Extreme sear, extreme hammer, hammer strut, extreme interruptor - Did I miss anything? Is there any gunsmithing needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikieM Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 28 minutes ago, jimbullet said: New to Tanfolgio but is it correct that if I have a stock 3, and bought extreme parts, they are simply drop in and its all ready to go? What would be the very basic parts that need to be changed if I wanted the trigger to be a bit lighter yet production Div legal? Extreme sear, extreme hammer, hammer strut, extreme interruptor - Did I miss anything? Is there any gunsmithing needed? I'm new with a Stock II, too. Pardon the rhyme. I just installed the afore mentioned parts and the only thing I had to do was fit the safety to the sear. No big deal. Everything else is drop-in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbullet Posted May 14, 2017 Author Share Posted May 14, 2017 Great! Did you need to file the safety to fit the new sear and housing complete block? How did your trigger go. Was it a huge improvement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTIV Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 I have a stock 2.I have the one piece extreme sear with a medium hammer spring and two coils taken off the hammer spring. The internals polished up a bit for smoother engagement with the Titan hammer. Double Action is much better and single action is great. Sent from my VTR-L29 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikieM Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 2 hours ago, jimbullet said: Great! Did you need to file the safety to fit the new sear and housing complete block? How did your trigger go. Was it a huge improvement? You may use a file, yes, but I used a Dremel with a stone tool similar to one you might use to sharpen a chain saw with. Go easy as the Dremel grinds fast. It's like a Barber cutting hair. He can take it off, but he can't put it back. Look closely (use magnifier glasses if you can) and you'll see the area on the safety that needs to be ground. Follow the contour as you are working it down and keep the stone parallel to the lug on the safety. You can also grind the bottom of the sear hook when it's out of it's cage, but working down the safety seemed an easier way for me. Improvement to the trigger was dramatic. The DA pull was reduced by just over 2 pounds and the SA pull went down just over 1 pound. The trigger now pulls at 5 lbs. 13 oz. for DA, and 2 lbs. 8 oz. for SA, and SA has no discernable take-up. This is with a 14 lb. hammer spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 19 hours ago, jimbullet said: New to Tanfolgio but is it correct that if I have a stock 3, and bought extreme parts, they are simply drop in and its all ready to go? What would be the very basic parts that need to be changed if I wanted the trigger to be a bit lighter yet production Div legal? Extreme sear, extreme hammer, hammer strut, extreme interruptor - Did I miss anything? Is there any gunsmithing needed? Start there and watch all four parts. Then when you come back to the forum and ask questions, get answers, and search through older posts on similar topics ... everything will make a whole lot more sense. You'll know how the gun works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbullet Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 awesome thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbullet Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 It looks like the extreme interruptor and the extreme hammer strut might not really be essential and I could change to the extreme sear and entire block plus the hammer and it should be ok. Does that sound logical? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 (edited) 3 hours ago, jimbullet said: It looks like the extreme interruptor and the extreme hammer strut might not really be essential and I could change to the extreme sear and entire block plus the hammer and it should be ok. Does that sound logical? If you don't shoot outside of the US and stick with USPSA: (Your location isn't listed.) There is no reason for an extreme sear - use the EAA single piece sear instead. Extreme hammer strut? Polish the factory one. Extreme hammer and interruptor? Better served with the BOLO and the Xtreme Titan hammer. Edited May 16, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsonian85 Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 On 5/14/2017 at 6:38 AM, jimbullet said: Great! Did you need to file the safety to fit the new sear and housing complete block? How did your trigger go. Was it a huge improvement? When I did this on my Stock II I for the sear not the safety. If you take too much material off the sear is cheaper to replace than the safety... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 (edited) How the safety and the sear interact: Simply Dremel the sear underneath that wing, and put it back together again and test. Repeat until the safety can be moved into the up position in all three hammer positions. Edited May 16, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 And go slow. You don't need to remove much. I was terrified when I did mine but found it to be a very quick process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbullet Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 23 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said: If you don't shoot outside of the US and stick with USPSA: (Your location isn't listed.) There is no reason for an extreme sear - use the EAA single piece sear instead. Extreme hammer strut? Polish the factory one. Extreme hammer and interruptor? Better served with the BOLO and the Xtreme Titan hammer. Outside of US, wanting this to be IPSC production legal. So probably not the Bolo for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 Too bad ! the BOLO is the best upgrade a tanfoglio can get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikieM Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 On 5/17/2017 at 6:20 AM, johnbu said: Too bad ! the BOLO is the best upgrade a tanfoglio can get. I installed the BOLO, of course, but my question is should I give it a good polish the next time the gun is apart, or leave it alone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 (edited) See 7:45 for my thought on this... Edited May 20, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikieM Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 I remember now, I've seen this. Great job. I'll get to it next week. One last thing. The take-up in DA feels the slightest bit gritty. Is this the plunger spring in it's tube? Thanks, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 Yes, probably the plunger and the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARMAGEDON Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 On 5/15/2017 at 2:52 AM, MemphisMechanic said: great video. Have use it like 10 times On 5/15/2017 at 2:52 AM, MemphisMechanic said: Start there and watch all four parts. Then when you come back to the forum and ask questions, get answers, and search through older posts on similar topics ... everything will make a whole lot more sense. You'll know how the gun works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbullet Posted May 25, 2017 Author Share Posted May 25, 2017 Um, a newbie question here - when I bought the stock 3, it had with it an extra guide rod. Why is there two guide rods? Is there any particular use for one or the other? I noticed the only difference is that the extra guide rod appears to have a much thicker head (dont know what that part is called but its the one closer to the barrel link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 (edited) Sounds like the previous owner installed a cone-fit guide rod from either Henning or EGD, and tossed the factory one in the box. Any Tanfoglio that is going to see regular use should be running one, so this is a good thing. See the images here: https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Henning-Tanfoglio-Conefit-Guide-Rod-Stainless-P4340.aspx Edited May 25, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbullet Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 Thanks to everyone for all your responses. You have been very helpful. One last question, do you feel its worth replacing into the extreme parts or would I simply be polishing the factory installed parts do the trick? Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 (edited) If you're in the USA and not looking to compete in actual IPSC matches - you only shoot USPSA - then: Extreme hammer. The Titan one. EAA or Xtreme 1-piece sear Bolo disconnector Add all of the polishing work you see in my videos. ...and a bunch of lighter springs for sear, trigger, and hammer. Its a pretty tried-and-true method for producing a terrific Tanfo trigger. Edited June 4, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikieM Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 On 5/14/2017 at 9:14 AM, MikieM said: You may use a file, yes, but I used a Dremel with a stone tool similar to one you might use to sharpen a chain saw with. Go easy as the Dremel grinds fast. It's like a Barber cutting hair. He can take it off, but he can't put it back. Look closely (use magnifier glasses if you can) and you'll see the area on the safety that needs to be ground. Follow the contour as you are working it down and keep the stone parallel to the lug on the safety. You can also grind the bottom of the sear hook when it's out of it's cage, but working down the safety seemed an easier way for me. Improvement to the trigger was dramatic. The DA pull was reduced by just over 2 pounds and the SA pull went down just over 1 pound. The trigger now pulls at 5 lbs. 13 oz. for DA, and 2 lbs. 8 oz. for SA, and SA has no discernable take-up. This is with a 14 lb. hammer spring. Do not pay any attention to this idiot behind the curtain. We are not sharpening chain saws here. The process of fitting a Tanfo safety is a deliberate, and slow process, and requires several trial fits before the job is accomplished. I learned the hard way and now have a non-usable safety hanging from my key chain. Use a diamond file and take your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 Hey, I used a dremel and went slowly and carefully. And it worked just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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