LeviSS Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 (edited) I installed the Henning magwell on a Limited and am having trouble with it loosening up and sliding forward when shooting. I had the problem, then took it off, cleaned the screw and threaded hole with rubbing alcohol, used blue LOC tite and tightened the screw as tight as I could get it. I let it set overnight. The next day it was loose and had slid forward within 50 rounds, locking the mag with the Henning IPSC base pad into the gun because of the set screw. The magwell slides into the frame with little to no effort. For now, I took a drywall screw anchor and cut it to fit the hole in the frame as an improvised bushing. This helps keep it from sliding forward as much, but it still slides forward enough to leave a ledge on the front of the frame magwell to hook a magazine in and stop it dead in its tracks. I guess I could file on the frame some to eliminate this. I would use red LOC tite, but I'm afraid I won't be able to get it off if I ever need to. Is this the case? Any advice to keep the magwell where I want it? Edited February 20, 2017 by LeviSS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tt350z Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 My Henning does that as well. I just made some bushings from the blade tech top hat looking nuts. They fit the ID of the Tanfo perfectly. My mag well no longer slides forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Mitch Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Red Loctite isn't permanent. None of them really are, depending on how much torque you generate in your forearms and how good the quality of your tools are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-Money Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 I got so frustrated with this problem that I filled the hike in the frame with JB Weld. Now the magwell won't move at all. Of course, when it comes time to replace the magwell I might need the Dremel to cut out the epoxy. A custom-cut bushing in the frame hike would have been my preferred choice, either in Delrin or brass. I'm thinking a lot of possible materials would work. Just find something that fits snugly, line up magwell and mark bushing, then drill out a hole where you need it to be. Or Henning could make the Wells with a set screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaddHatter Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 I had this problem with the factory mag well. I just got the Henning so will see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeviSS Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 12 hours ago, tt350z said: My Henning does that as well. I just made some bushings from the blade tech top hat looking nuts. They fit the ID of the Tanfo perfectly. My mag well no longer slides forward. Could you post a link to these? The drywall anchor fit pretty well. The bushing almost needs the hole offset to the back. I wish I could find a delrin rod that I could cut into sections and then drill a couple pieces with progressively offset holes until I get one that makes it line up where I want. I like this gun, but I hate having to tinker with shit to make it right when I feel like it shouldn't be a problem in the first place. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 (edited) Their guns are just like an Italian supercar or model. Sexy, awesome when they're running right... but you've gotta f**k with it a lot to keep it properly in tune. Edited February 20, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tt350z Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 1 hour ago, LeviSS said: Could you post a link to these? The drywall anchor fit pretty well. The bushing almost needs the hole offset to the back. I wish I could find a delrin rod that I could cut into sections and then drill a couple pieces with progressively offset holes until I get one that makes it line up where I want. I like this gun, but I hate having to tinker with shit to make it right when I feel like it shouldn't be a problem in the first place. ? http://shop.blade-tech.com/product_info.php?cPath=81_117&products_id=616#.WKsgt4FOKEc I just ground one side of the flange flat so it looks like a D shape so it doesn't stick into the magazine area. I'm sure there's something that would work better but this fixed it in a pinch with stuff I had laying around Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeviSS Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 Thanks. I ended up taking a file to the frame last night and beveled/blended it better. With the bushing, I think it will suffice for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V2plus25 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 8 hours ago, LeviSS said: Thanks. I ended up taking a file to the frame last night and beveled/blended it better. With the bushing, I think it will suffice for now. So you're using the bushing just to ensure a tighter fit with the screw between the magwell and the frame? Mine fits very tightly already (needs to be pounded in to place with a mallet), but I have noticed there is still a tendency for the magwell to shift forward a bit. I wonder if a small locking washer underneath the screw head would solve it? But I'm with you. Worst case just bevel the frame so that when the magwell moves there are no sharp edges there to catch the mag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeviSS Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 (edited) The bushing just minimizes the distance it can slide forward and rearward with the screw in. It doesn't help tighten the magwell to the frame. It's in the hole that runs through the center of the gun the the magwell bolt goes through. Without the bushing it could slide like 1/4". The bushing has just a little play in the frame hole, so that's what gives it the movement. Mine is not tight at all on the frame without the screw. It wouldn't fall off if you pointed the muzzle up, but it wouldn't take much to make it slide off. The blending of the frame to magwell really helped with reloads. I still need a way to keep the screw from coming loose. It doesn't do it when practicing reloads. It only seems to loosen under recoil. I emailed Henning, but haven't received a reply. No one has experience using red LOC tite on a Henning magwell? Edited February 22, 2017 by LeviSS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeviSS Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 I'm kinda disappointed here. I emailed Henning on Sunday and have yet to get a response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniperboy Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Not sure if you are in the USA or not (since you mention IPSC) but you may want to call Henning. I have emailed them many times but have never got a response, however, they are always very nice on the phone and return calls. Don't want that frustration to stew in your mind any more than it needs to : ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeviSS Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 (edited) Yeah, I'm dead center of the USA. I just got the IPSC base pad because I thought I might like a shorter mag for a reload. I just got in from shooting about 150 rounds and I'm happy to say it stayed in place and tight. I think the bushing provided the added benefit it keeping the screw from working loose because I had to "drive" the screw through the plastic, creating it's own threads in the bushing and making it very tight. But now my f$#@#$# rear sight is wiggling around because the two set screws came loose. I'm getting frustrated very fast. Edited February 23, 2017 by LeviSS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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