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SV feeding/extracting nightmare!


evilbeef54

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My 38sc SV open gun has decided it doesn't want to work anymore!  It started stove piping every few rounds.  I tried playing with extractor tension and swapping to 3 different extractors and several different ejectors, and tried 7#, 8#, and 9# recoil springs.  No luck.  I called SV and talked to brandon and sent him some pictures.  He said it sounded like an extractor tension issue, and he noticed that we had widened the ejector channel in the breechface to match the channel in the slide to make fitting ejectors easier.  He said that was costing me extractor tension, I'm not sure how, but ok.  I got a new breechface and went with one of their ejectors, he said to use the 9 short, even though their site said that is for iron sight guns.  He also said I need to use the aftec instead of the egw.

 

New breechface and ejector are fitted, put the aftec back in and tried all three recoil springs again, and all three extractors.  If I put enough extractor tension so that it doesn't stove pipe with crushed case mouths, then it fails to feed every few rounds, back off the extractor tension just a tiny bit and it stove pipes!!!

 

New breechface

New ejector

New mag springs

3 new recoil springs

Aftec (with one or two springs), EGW, and caspian extractors

 

Won't get through a full mag with out an issue.  I'm at a loss for what to do next

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How many times has the brass you are using been reloaded? Is it possible that the extractor groove on the brass has gotten out of tolerance? 

I once had some brass for my 38super that just would not feed. Correct OAL, not bulged, everything looked perfect. Only thing I ever found was the extractor groove was not as deep as new 38super brass. It was only one make of brass. Just giving my .02...

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That is possible, not sure how many times it has been loaded, some of it was pick up from an area match, others have maybe 4-5 times loaded, everything is case gauged crimp seems good, but it could be out of tolerance

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This might help you isolate the problem?   Remove the recoil spring and load up some dummy rounds in a mag.  Load the magazine and chamber a round.  Now very slowly pull the slide back and watch each round as it ejects/gets extracted and a new round chambers.   Maybe something can be seen?  

I had a sporadic extraction problem as well and this procedure showed me the ejector was too long and not shaped optimally. 

 

Good luck

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Good idea, we ended up doing that Sat after another failed range day, worked on the extractor some more, it might work now, I will try to test this week, weird thing is it worked flawless with that same extractor for about 10 matches with zero issues, it seems like tension is fine, it has NEVER been this picky on tension before, but now it either fails to eject and crushes case mouths or fails to feed under the extractor, no inbetween.... After a ton more work on the extractor we can slowly cycle it by hand with out the recoil spring and get it to feed and eject, hopefully it works, if not I'm out of ideas

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8 minutes ago, Shadyscott999 said:

Sounds like something is slowing the slide down.  Check reverse plug, guide rod, see if you can see a rub mark from the safety etc.  A weak safety detent spring can cause you to bump the safety just enough to drag the slide

I will check that out thanks, I ride the safety so I don't THINK it is that, but it is worth checking, it seems to cycle very smooth by hand.  This all started after it was slow rust blued and had some other work done, but a... it never got hotter than boiling water temp, and b.... it has had 1400 rounds through it since then so if the bluing was the issue it should have worn in by now

Edited by evilbeef54
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I ride the safety too and can still bump it up with the meaty part of my left hand or first knuckle of my right hand.  Shay has to detent my safeties so much that I have to use my left had to put the safety on.  Any less and I will bump it causing the exact symptoms you are having.  
There are other causes as well.  Take the guide rod out of the gun and inspect the reverse  plug with the spring compressed and captured.   If it is cracked the presure will make it easier to see.  

 

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