Xtreme sear and trigger bar spring

[Wesquire]

Any point in getting these parts if I already have a polished trigger bar spring and a polished 1 piece sear? I'm assuming the xtreme parts would have a harder steel.

[MemphisMechanic]

The Xtreme sear is identical to the one you already have, except that it's finished differently so that you cannot tell when IPSC shooters break the rules and polish theirs it is nice and silver from the factory and has a slick finish.  

As to the trigger bar spring, I had to google to confirm you're referring to what most of us call the "plunger spring" here on BEnos. Now I know the factory name for it:

http://benstoegerproshop.com/copy-of-eaa-tanfoglio-witness-trigger-bar-spring-3-7-3-8-3-9-3-10-1/

No. Especially if you're going to fit your gun with the Titan/BOLO combination later on from Patriot Defense and really rework your trigger, a reduced power spring here (EGD or Henning) will often cause the hammer to fall too early in DA and not strike hard enough.

We're getting 5 and even 4 pound double action triggers these days with the right combination of parts, and that spring polished like crazy (along with the trigger bar plunger) but otherwise left alone.

Edited December 9, 2016 by MemphisMechanic

[Wesquire]

2 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

The Xtreme sear is identical to the one you already have, except that it's finished differently so that you cannot tell when IPSC shooters break the rules and polish theirs it is nice and silver from the factory and has a slick finish.  

As to the trigger bar spring, I had to google to confirm you're referring to what most of us call the "plunger spring" here on BEnos. Now I know the factory name for it:

http://benstoegerproshop.com/copy-of-eaa-tanfoglio-witness-trigger-bar-spring-3-7-3-8-3-9-3-10-1/

No. Especially if you're going to fit your gun with the Titan/BOLO combination later on from Patriot Defense and really rework your trigger, a reduced power spring here (EGD or Henning) will often cause the hammer to fall too early in DA and not strike hard enough.

We're getting 5 and even 4 pound double action triggers these days with the right combination of parts, and that spring polished like crazy (along with the trigger bar plunger) but otherwise left alone.

I've already got the bolo and titan. I've got a 5lb DA. Just wondering if the xtreme version is worth buying. I'm not looking to weaken the spring itself, I'm more asking if the plunger itself is worth it.

[Wesquire]

I was under the impression that many of the nonxtreme parts are only surface hardened and polishing them can result in a very weak metal contact.

[PatriotDefense]

4 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

The Xtreme sear is identical to the one you already have, except that it's finished differently so that you cannot tell when IPSC shooters break the rules and polish theirs it is nice and silver from the factory and has a slick finish.  

As to the trigger bar spring, I had to google to confirm you're referring to what most of us call the "plunger spring" here on BEnos. Now I know the factory name for it:

http://benstoegerproshop.com/copy-of-eaa-tanfoglio-witness-trigger-bar-spring-3-7-3-8-3-9-3-10-1/

No. Especially if you're going to fit your gun with the Titan/BOLO combination later on from Patriot Defense and really rework your trigger, a reduced power spring here (EGD or Henning) will often cause the hammer to fall too early in DA and not strike hard enough.

We're getting 5 and even 4 pound double action triggers these days with the right combination of parts, and that spring polished like crazy (along with the trigger bar plunger) but otherwise left alone.

The Xtreme trigger bar plunger assembly is no different than the factory besides the finish..... it does not come with a lighter/reduced spring.

[PatriotDefense]

1 minute ago, Wesquire said:

I was under the impression that many of the nonxtreme parts are only surface hardened and polishing them can result in a very weak metal contact.

This can be avoided by heating the part up.... use slow RPM's and be patient with your polishing, allow your product to cool if needed and try not to produce to much heat. Honestly the only parts you should worry about is your hammer hook area and Sear face.... 

[Wesquire]

2 minutes ago, PatriotDefense said:

This can be avoided by heating the part up.... use slow RPM's and be patient with your polishing, allow your product to cool if needed and try not to produce to much heat. Honestly the only parts you should worry about is your hammer hook area and Sear face.... 

Ok thanks. Sounds like neither part needs to be replaced. 

[PatriotDefense]

Just now, Wesquire said:

Ok thanks. Sounds like neither part needs to be replaced. 

Roll with what you got Wes.....

[MemphisMechanic]

10 minutes ago, PatriotDefense said:

The Xtreme trigger bar plunger assembly is no different than the factory besides the finish..... it does not come with a lighter/reduced spring.

He asked about the Xtreme sear vs the factory one too, if you read the title and first post together.

Not about an Xtreme plunger.

Edit: As my first reply indicates, the extreme sear is not an upgrade from the factory 1-piece sear. Just so that remains crystal clear.

Edited December 9, 2016 by MemphisMechanic

[Wesquire]

1 minute ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Damn. I misread.

For some reason I thought he was referring to the Xtreme SEAR, and the trigger bar spring.

So half of my reply was quite misdirected.

I didn't know what to call it. I meant the whole plunger assembly. In the pro shop it is just called the trigger bar spring though.

[Wesquire]

4 minutes ago, PatriotDefense said:

Roll with what you got Wes.....

Will do. What I got includes quite a bit of patriot defense parts btw :). Great stuff

[MemphisMechanic]

I edited the post you quoted. FYI

[MemphisMechanic]

Call me crazy. But the topic using the phrase "extreme sear" and his initial post saying:

10 hours ago, Wesquire said:

Any point in getting these parts if I already have a polished trigger bar spring and a polished 1 piece sear?

...made it quite clear that he was asking about going from an EAA sear to an Xtreme sear, as well.

Or else he did a hell of a job asking about it on accident.

[PatriotDefense]

Yup...I'm lost.....

Wes- Either way the Xtreme sear and factory are both identical as far as dimensions are concerned. As stated above the Xtreme sear does come with a more natural finish (for a cast part) but is far from being drop-in if you want the most out of it. Regardless it sounds like your setup is working fine for you as of now and i see no reason for you to change what you have. 

Edited December 9, 2016 by PatriotDefense

[Avenida]

Newbie here, I am about to start a trigger job and I am willing to put the time in.

I have:

Extreme trigger bar

Extreme trigger bar plunger

Extreme Sear

 

I have watched memphis' youtube videos and I know what to buff/polish, however, I need help as to what is the proper technique to polish these tricky parts:

Sear Face

Trigger hook

 

I am worried that I might ruin edges. Do you use san paper on this areas or do you just use a buffing wheel with a dremel?

 

 

[Tanfastic]

3 hours ago, Avenida said:

Newbie here, I am about to start a trigger job and I am willing to put the time in.

I have:

Extreme trigger bar

Extreme trigger bar plunger

Extreme Sear

 

I have watched memphis' youtube videos and I know what to buff/polish, however, I need help as to what is the proper technique to polish these tricky parts:

Sear Face

Trigger hook

 

I am worried that I might ruin edges. Do you use san paper on this areas or do you just use a buffing wheel with a dremel?

 

 

 

I thought you said you shoot IPSC??  If so, I believe you can't polish anything per the rules, correct?

[Avenida]

once  the parts rub together and I identify the contact points I want to rid of any imperfection in the metal after break in period.

 

[SoCalShooter69]

5 minutes ago, Avenida said:

once  the parts rub together and I identify the contact points I want to rid of any imperfection in the metal after break in period.

 

 

You can't polish extreme parts. You might as well just put them in as is. 

[Avenida]

is it worth adding a Extreme sear cage to a trigger job? 

[Avenida]

10 minutes ago, SoCalShooter69 said:

 

You can't polish extreme parts. You might as well just put them in as is. 

 

I have been browsing in here, and apparently there is a way to polish the extreme parts, it just takes a little bit longer than blued parts?

Is this correct? what am I missing other than the extreme parts being finished differently?

 

[Nathanb]

It is definitely noticeable if someone wants to pay that much attention. 

[Avenida]

Well, I think this post is derailing in a direction that is not really answering my question, we can ignore the fact that the gun will be used in IPSC, this is a backup pistol as I have a EXTREME Stock that I will be using when traveling internationally.

I am just trying to get to the nitty gritty no pun intended of polishing trigger parts.

 

Is there a link to a video or perhaps a thread in this forum that might indicate how to improve the Sear surfaces?

I did see Memphis videos, however, I am not sure what is the technique used for polishing... 

 

Thanks

[Tanfastic]

I put a standard polished trigger bar in my Stock II Xtreme and ditched the Xtreme trigger bar.  My polish job on the standard bar is way better than the Xtreme bar was.  I left the Xtreme sear in it, which seems to be fine, but I did polish the contact points on it.  I also polished the Xtreme plunger and that seems fine also, after polishing it's indistinguishable from the polished standard plunger in my regular Stock II.  After all of the polishing, I'm firmly in the camp of those who say just buy the standard stuff and polish it yourself IF you're not shooting IPSC.  

[Tanfastic]

As far as polishing technique, I use a Dremel with felt polishing tips (wheels, cones, etc.) and I have come to really prefer Blue Magic polishing compound based upon the recommendations here.  I've tried the liquid and the paste, and I prefer the paste.  Saturate the felt tip, with polishing compound and as you polish and the compound wears off, pure more compound on before continuing or the dry felt will quickly burn and shed itself.  I've had good luck with 15,000 RPM speed.  Little tip is I have a trash can next to my bench, and after saturating the felt I stick the tip down in the trash can when I turn the Dremel on so any excess if flung off in there rather than all over my room and all over me.  That's just my take on it, others here have done way more polishing than I have so hopefully they can chime in as well.

[Avenida]

8 minutes ago, Tanfastic said:

As far as polishing technique, I use a Dremel with felt polishing tips (wheels, cones, etc.) and I have come to really prefer Blue Magic polishing compound based upon the recommendations here.  I've tried the liquid and the paste, and I prefer the paste.  Saturate the felt tip, with polishing compound and as you polish and the compound wears off, pure more compound on before continuing or the dry felt will quickly burn and shed itself.  I've had good luck with 15,000 RPM speed.  Little tip is I have a trash can next to my bench, and after saturating the felt I stick the tip down in the trash can when I turn the Dremel on so any excess if flung off in there rather than all over my room and all over me.  That's just my take on it, others here have done way more polishing than I have so hopefully they can chime in as well.

 

thank you, this is exactly what I needed to know. I am looking forward at working on this trigger as I really like the platform, but I much rather shoot the chrome version than the cerakote one, which is why I bought this one. plus the fact that I can work on the trigger and customize it to my taste, makes it very interesting.