MemphisMechanic Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 9 hours ago, ryridesmotox said: ARy covered that awhile back, re: hammer spring. Yes he did. However there's more than one way to skin a cat. The problem with the way most people utilize sandpaper is that they tend remove material instead of smoothing up the metal which is there. And they're using it on the components of the action - especially hammer/sear surfaces. IMO, even something like 800 grit is far too coarse. I was personally comfortable wet-sanding the insides of the hammer spring and plunger holes with 2000 grit since I didn't have a way to polish those with compound. Now that I do, that's the way I'll go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted November 30, 2016 Author Share Posted November 30, 2016 (edited) I actually picked up some 3000 and 5000 grit sand paper to do the pin holes and such but yeah the q tip thing and polish will be how I do it. Edited November 30, 2016 by Nathanb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 You didn't ask ! lol. If it's low buck, old school, down and dirty .... it's right up my alley. Heck, I just upgraded to electronic trigger gage from hanging weights on a metal rod! Quote why didn't anyone tell me you can chuck up a Q tip in the Dremel, and polish pretty much all the holes that need it?!?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 I was just going to ask what everyone was using to polish the holes.The above looks like the hot ticket!Anyone use anything different?[emoji12] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 (edited) Well....uh.....yeah....uh.... Reading comprehension was never a strong suit Edited November 30, 2016 by johnbu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 [emoji23]Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 How about some pics of where to, and where NOT to polish the sear/cage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, ARy said: I polish the entire assymbly. While that's quite clearly overkill (many of the surfaces ARy polished see no movement nor wear) I feel like a lot of people overlook one of the biggest benefits of a chrome-like polishing job: The surfaces have no tooth anymore. Carbon deposits and powder residue you used to have to scrub and scrub to remove? It wipes right off with a pass from a dry cloth. I polish the breech, barrel, and breechface of every gun I shoot in high volume just because I loathe cleaning guns. Edited December 2, 2016 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highhope Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 Nice job, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunez Posted December 10, 2016 Share Posted December 10, 2016 On 11/27/2016 at 9:02 PM, johnbu said: Yes, firing pin block needs it and the hole. Speaking of holes.... the hole for the firing pin, firing pin keeper (back plate), hammer spring hole, plunger hole, mag release hole and mag release. I also do the inside of the frame where the trigger bar slides and the inside gap where the hammer swings. I also put polishing compound in the frame and slide rails then rack the stripped slide a minimum of 100 times. also remove the extractor before polishing the firing pin hole. While it's out, polish it especially the curve where the pin goes. Also the hook as a burr there will cause feed issues. while that's out, polish the breech face and chamfer the leading edge of the rib and polish the rib. I'm curious to know how many rounds through a Stock II will do the same job in smoothing out the parts as a polishing job. Or if you do a decent polishing job on most parts and shoot 5000 rounds through the pistol, it will be the same or better. I've personally handled Ben Stoeger's gun and mentioned how he had a nice SA trigger pull (he uses a 13# hammer). He said it was from shooting it and breaking it all in. I was having issues with light strikes and Ben mentioned polishing the firing pin hole. I'm not sure the extent the top guys focus on their guns (not open) and I'm curious if their anal about all the polishing etc.. or they just shoot 10,000 rounds and are like ok this is good. Maybe somebody on here and comment on this. Personally I've gone from trying to get the lightest trigger pull to the best trigger pull. Best in the sense that the lightest trigger is not always the best trigger when shooting quick splits to me personally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted December 10, 2016 Share Posted December 10, 2016 The change done by firing 5,000 rounds won't be as good as the change by polishing. I polished a gun that had about 5-6,000 rounds shot and the trigger change (with EG medium/medium) was just over 1.5# da reduction and a sharpening of sa with a drop of almost a pound. The owner of that gun wanted 100% ignition using hard as steel factory new ammo and wasn't even open to any reduction in springs force. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 So I just buttoned mine back together, and I can say for certain that the changes made were amazing!I didn't just polish, I made a few other changes as well (Xtreme trigger Patriot Defense Optimized sear spring, #8 Wolf recoil spring, PDO firing pin spring and PDO #13 hammer spring on top of polish job), but I can tell for certain that the polish job was a huge help! (Gun was running #14 Wolf hammer and #10 recoil previously).The slide and hammer feel like they are made of glass. No more gritty feel in the trigger (most noticeable in SA actually).My only concern is that with all the friction reduction, maybe that #8 recoil spring might be a bit too light.Thank god... or at least Patriot Defense, for the new firing pin spring! Making recoil spring changes now takes literally less than 1 minute!I'll bring a #9 and the #10 to the range with my hotter practice ammo to test.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 (edited) Good results Ironarcher! A question though... are you thinking about the lighter hammer spring allowing faster rear slide motion and causing frame battering as the reason to up the recoil spring? I run a 6# recoil to minimize slide lock dip and have been running 8# and cut 8# springs. No sign of damage after thousands of rounds. But, I'm not able to feed it GM levels of ammo! Might be an issue for a 25-50k round a year shooter. I can't say, so keep that in mind. Now, if anyone wants to send me a couple pallets of ammo.... Oh, to run wimpy recoil springs, polishing the slide and frame rails is important. Strip the gun, slather polishing compound in the grooves and manually cycle until happy. Edited December 11, 2016 by johnbu I hate auto correct and touch screens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Yeah, that's pretty much my concern.Probably just because the whole reasoning for the Henning guide rod sticks in the back of my head LOL!I am still VERY new to this! Not sure I have had this thing for even a year so far, and never meant to shoot competitively with it when I got it.Save for a Ruger .22 this is my first semi auto... we fear the unknown.... I don't know how a lighter spring will effect the gun.That said, I would guess I'm about a 5k a year shooter, so it sounds like I may be worried about nothing.Oh yeah, already did the polishing goop in the rails and work the slide a couple hundred times!Actually shows any high points on the rails. Feels amazing now.So yeah, less hammer spring to fight, less friction in the rails to fight AND a lighter recoil spring adds up to a VERY significant change.I can say with my #10 spring, 135-140PF ammo pretty much never got more than 3" above the gun when ejected.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 This is a still frame from a slo mo video zoomed way in.This was taken at the peak of the trajectory of the brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 There are several ways to check recoil spring tuning. The brass ejection height, distance etc is one that is used frequently. Mostly because it's easy. A more difficult (but better) method is to video the gun from the side while firing to see how much it moves and in which directions. A too strong spring will cause the muzzle to dip below the starting point. A too weak will leave it above the starting point. Ideally, the muzzle pops up then down and is exactly back to the original point of aim. . Many factors around the way the shooter grips the gun (hand position, grip force and more) can make the result radically different from one person to another. That's why it needs to be checked by everyone that wants it tuned optimally for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 Watching the video zoomed in, there is a very small dip as the slide hits home... not much movement.Will try all 3 springs with both of the ammos I normally run and video them to see the difference.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 So I was able to take some rough trigger pull measurements.Pulling smoothly through, I get 5.3-5.5 DA and 2.2-2.4 SAIf I go super crazy slow, I can make those go up to 5.8-6 DA and virtually no change in SA (5 in a row at 5.3)... that said, I think I am getting a false reading (high) pulling smoothly through as I am hitting my trigger stop, and I believe that the scale it getting a reading off of the travel stop.Also, the gun is "wet" right now. I believe those numbers might drop a point or 2 dry.In either case, those are my current numbers with a #13 hammer spring, PDO seat spring, and stock trigger and plunger springs.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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