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Light Primer Strikes with CCI's


nunez

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3 minutes ago, emjei said:

Seems like reamming is a good idea no matter what 

Only if the pistol needs it... Some say it can reduce accuracy. But in this beast, I don't think it will have any effect. This gun is way more accurate than I am. Besides, for the intended purpose of USPSA shooting, it doesn't need to be a .25 moa 1000 yard gun... It just has to hit minute of A zone at 20 feet and be able to hit a 4 inch plate at 10 yards or so. Still well within the capabilities of the gun when I don't shoot like a blind ham fisted witch doctor.

Even after reaming, its still more accurate than any glock I have ever shot, and way more accurate than my duty gun.

Edited by ryridesmotox
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10 minutes ago, emjei said:

YES.....those are WAY better than a cutted Wolf ( the pencil test shows that )

Listen I don't know what to tell you. Mine is setup like yours and I still get the occasional light strike. But I dont reload and dont have the ability to QC and pick my primers. I trained with Ben Stoeger and had a 12# and was getting light strikes. He told me go to the 13# the next day. I had another light strike, he says "Is the firing pin channel and firing pin polished?" I answered "Yes, like a mirror" and I got back "f*#k." 

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1 minute ago, nunez said:

Listen I don't know what to tell you. Mine is setup like yours and I still get the occasional light strike. But I dont reload and dont have the ability to QC and pick my primers. I trained with Ben Stoeger and had a 12# and was getting light strikes. He told me go to the 13# the next day. I had another light strike, he says "Is the firing pin channel and firing pin polished?" I answered "Yes, like a mirror" and I got back "f*#k." 

Ill probably cut  few coils from PD FP Spring and see..... or keep the DA at 7# :wacko:

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Ream the barrels guys, honestly, if you are using a 13lbs spring, you should be lighting CCIs. I do 100%. In a match, I will run a 14lbs hammer spring.

I have everything polished, light plunger spring, light trigger return spring, light sear spring, xtreme 1 piece sear, titan hammer, bolo, OEM firing pin, 14lbs PD hammer spring. and the ream, everything is running like a scalded cat. I have a 2lbs 5oz SA and a 5lbs 5oz DA trigger.

 

The 13lbs hammer spring doesn't make enough of a difference for me to want to risk a random light strike in a match

Edited by ryridesmotox
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8 hours ago, nunez said:

Have you prayed over it?

I do over mine....

Starts out with..."GD it, WTF is going on"

 

 

8 hours ago, nunez said:

Listen I don't know what to tell you. Mine is setup like yours and I still get the occasional light strike. But I dont reload and dont have the ability to QC and pick my primers. I trained with Ben Stoeger and had a 12# and was getting light strikes. He told me go to the 13# the next day. I had another light strike, he says "Is the firing pin channel and firing pin polished?" I answered "Yes, like a mirror" and I got back "f*#k." 

There are a few other things less discussed that may be an issue.

1- firing pin block drag / impact. Inspect the block and pin where the "block" is occurring.  if the top of the block is too tall or short "bad things" can happen. The pin will drag on the block or actually HIT the block and pass by. The block and hole also need to be smooth.

BUT!!!!! open it too much and you could impact operability of the block. Also the "range" between dragging and impacting is tiny. Miniscule in fact. The italian tolerances also mean there isn't one measurement.....so it's a pita to fit.

2- the pins and holes for the hammer , strut, and interruptor should also be polished.

3- the gap in the frame the hammer swings thru also should be smooth. If your hammer had marks...it needs love.

Edited by johnbu
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1 minute ago, johnbu said:

I do over mine....

Starts out with..."GD it, WTF is going on"

 

 

There are a few other things less discussed that may be an issue.

1- firing pin block drag / impact. Inspect the block and pin where the "block" is occurring.  if the top of the block is too tall or short "bad things" can happen. The pin will drag on the block or actually HIT the block and pass by. The block and hole also need to be smooth.

BUT!!!!! open it too much and you could impact operability of the block. Also the "range" between dragging and impacting is tiny. Miniscule in fact. The italian tolerances also mean there isn't one measurement.....so it's a pita to fit.

Ain't that the truth. The difference between the block not working at all, and blocking the firing pin completely so that the gun would never fire was about .009 for me

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5 minutes ago, waktasz said:

Ain't that the truth. The difference between the block not working at all, and blocking the firing pin completely so that the gun would never fire was about .009 for me

And the "perfect" operation range is about 0.001". !

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Well, slap me silly and let one jinx himself.... I'm running a 13lb PD spring and EG light FP Return spring - 100% with CCI primers. Did I just happen to get one of the guns built by the guy that actually attended gunsmith school & only drinks vino in moderation? I'm seriously surprised at the issues y'all are fiddling with.

 

Got the last match of the year in 9 days, let's see if we can keep up the reliablity.

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6 minutes ago, SCTaylor said:

Well, slap me silly and let one jinx himself.... I'm running a 13lb PD spring and EG light FP Return spring - 100% with CCI primers. Did I just happen to get one of the guns built by the guy that actually attended gunsmith school & only drinks vino in moderation? I'm seriously surprised at the issues y'all are fiddling with.

 

Got the last match of the year in 9 days, let's see if we can keep up the reliablity.

uncut EG light FP Spring ??

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10 minutes ago, SCTaylor said:

Well, slap me silly and let one jinx himself.... I'm running a 13lb PD spring and EG light FP Return spring - 100% with CCI primers. Did I just happen to get one of the guns built by the guy that actually attended gunsmith school & only drinks vino in moderation? I'm seriously surprised at the issues y'all are fiddling with.

 

Got the last match of the year in 9 days, let's see if we can keep up the reliablity.

Shhhhhh!  Don't wake the evil gun gremlins....

 

Lol.

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22 minutes ago, wav3rhythm said:

I really didn't like the PD hammer springs. I put my #14 spring back in and it lights off everything every time. Reliability is not an option - my trigger is over 6lbs and I'm cool with that.


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What did you not like? I'm sitting on high 6lb in DA and high 3lb in SA with their 13lb. But I'm with you on being happy with the trigger weight, its darn smooth in DA.

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What did you not like? I'm sitting on high 6lb in DA and high 3lb in SA with their 13lb. But I'm with you on being happy with the trigger weight, its darn smooth in DA.



I had unreliable ignition with CCI and even Winchester primers. In fairness, I didn't play with the firing pin spring or the firing pin block, but it wasn't worth the worry to cut half a pound off the DA pull. I'm actually a few ticks faster on bill drills and plate racks with the heavier trigger than going to the lightest pull possible.




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^^Smooth is the most important aspect. IMHO, the PD springs are much smoother and have less stacking feel than the competitive options.

A  decent polish with factory springs will bring DA into the 8# range. Wolf 14 takes it to 7, but PD 14 takes it into the 6 range.  8 is heavy  for me, but 7 or less is acceptable  (all personal preference) .

My main gun id at 5# 0oz DA with PD 13. That's good for me. But i may train over  winter w heavy springs to work on trigger control.

Changing to the PD trigger and sear spring will also drop 1/2 to 1 pound without impacting ignition at all.

 

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With the wolf springs... I think they stack up and bind toward the end and then hit harder. That's the stack feel as you get close to the break (after you've done the bolo and stuff... The stock interrupting contributes to the stack as well amongst other thungs) I run the PD springs because they are buttery smooth. If you have the gun setup it will run CCIs with 13lbs, maybe even less. But it's tough to get it there. Its taken me 2 months. Tanfo QC seems appallingly bad. But the gun feels so good in hand, is so accurate, dead sexy, and when it runs it's runs like a scalded cat. Its basically just like my uncle's Ferrari in a gun version. 

Edited by ryridesmotox
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  • 10 months later...

I can run cci, too.

 

Currently running the PD 15.5 hammer spring (polished), on a diameter reduced,polished  strut in a polished hole. Swinging a polished Titan hammer through a polished gap. It hits a polished firing pin that lives in a highly polished channel.

 

The primers NEED to be seated 0.003 to 0.008" deep. Pure flush is sketchy. But, i run range pick brass. Even the black oxidized year old brass gets picked and tumbled in my "course" media and used. If you use tight primer pocket brass,  sort and load only one headstamp, etc, your depth may vary from mine. 

 

With the rest of the gun also detail polished, the DA is a decent 5 1/2#. With the da stroke lengthening tricks from @Patriotdefense  done. Note, you want smooth da pull more than light. Become focused on making it smooth more than light.

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What johnbu said. Mine was setup the same: full PD springs with Titan/Bolo/1pc sear, 15.5 hammer spring, and a reamed chamber.

 

The gun would eat CCI Magnums all day long with a 6 pound DA pull that most people guessed weighed 4.5-5.0 due to it's smoothness and lack of stacking.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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