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Glock 34 Gen3 --FTF


phil plesetz

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High primers can cause that, did you try to fire it again? What loader are you using? It could also be a firing pin spring, they do get shorter after awhile. Since I started using S&B primers, harder than CCI or WIn, I put in 6lb Wolf springs. Here is a brand new OEM spring, check your existing one for length. Wolf 6lb on top, Glock OEM on bottom.

 

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Edited by 9x45
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i know I'm the one asking for help, but the loader and primers should not be relevant because it has done it with factory ammo too. Round count through the gun i would estimate at 1500 max. 

I did not try and fire the round that failed to fire but will the next time i shoot indoors. Should I consider a new firing pin? I really am happy with the trigger pull and that from what i have seen is due to the firing pin spring and plunger safety spring I changed. If I go back to my OEM FP spring, I would expect my pull to be back up over 5lbs., correct??

Thanks,

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The firing pin will last over 200,000 rounds, that's not it. The OEM is 5.5lbs. The loader is relevant because high primers will not go bang. And different primers are different hardness, like I said, for info, Federals are the softest, and most expensive, that's why the ICORE guys like them. I have seen high quality factory not go bang either. Go back to your OEM setup and see how it runs. Trigger pull weight is not directly related to spring weights, there is friction between the trigger cruciform and connector, and connector to frame. It's mostly based on the connector angle, a "minus" connector is usually lighter than a factory 5.5lb connector, but that is not pull weight. You have to measure it to be sure.

 

 

Edited by 9x45
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Pull the slide off and clean all of the crap out of the striker channel.  Don't oil the striker channel, you can wipe everything down, but when you oil the channel, you create a kind of brass shavings mud in there and the striker will slow down. 

Really it could be a lot of things, including springs, but on my two 34s this is the first place that I check.

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Lighter striker springs are well known for causing light strikes. Putting the stock one back in will raise the pull rate some, amount is dependent on the rate of the spring you installed. If you installed a connector with your springs it should not return to the factory pull weight.

Using primers known for being softer and being very meticulous about primer seating should lessen and possibly eliminate your FTFs, keeping the striker and channel spotless will help too. If you are adamant about keeping the lighter rate spring get a lightened and extended striker, and do the other things mentioned and you should have a fairly reliable ignition system again.

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16 hours ago, phil plesetz said:

i know I'm the one asking for help, but the loader and primers should not be relevant because it has done it with factory ammo too. Round count through the gun i would estimate at 1500 max. 

I did not try and fire the round that failed to fire but will the next time i shoot indoors. Should I consider a new firing pin? I really am happy with the trigger pull and that from what i have seen is due to the firing pin spring and plunger safety spring I changed. If I go back to my OEM FP spring, I would expect my pull to be back up over 5lbs., correct??

Thanks,

Any idea what weight the striker spring is that you installed? Glocks are notorious for light strikes when the springs are changed. There is a few things you can do to try to correct the issue. #1 changing to federal primers would most likely fix the issue. #2 go with a heavier striker spring. Yes your trigger pull weight will increase but you would get rid of light strikes. #3 try getting the lightened firing pin. It will move forward faster with the lighter striker spring.

I know you said it looks like hard strikes on the primer but it doesn't mean it wasnt a light strike. Light strikes still dent the primer. If there is a dent on the primer and it didnt fire, there is nothing else in the gun that would cause the problem. The striker isnt hitting the primer with enough force. It is possible that with your reloads the primers are too high but i doubt it if the problem still is happening with factory ammo.

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Thanks for the input to all of you. I need primers so I'm going to start with a batch of Federals to try as this is fast and easy without changing the gun. Another thing that was mentioned was keeping the firing pin channel clean, and I always put a drop of oil there, so i will wipe that clean and inspect for dirt or brass shavings.

I'll keep you all posted.

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27 minutes ago, phil plesetz said:

Thanks for the input to all of you. I need primers so I'm going to start with a batch of Federals to try as this is fast and easy without changing the gun. Another thing that was mentioned was keeping the firing pin channel clean, and I always put a drop of oil there, so i will wipe that clean and inspect for dirt or brass shavings.

I'll keep you all posted.

Actually you dont wanna lube that at all. Once you wipe it clean, dont lube it again. 

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If you're getting FTF and you've messed with the striker spring, that is the #1 place to start IMO.  

 

A few questions...

Did you shoot the gun before making the swap of springs?  If so, were there the same failures before the swap?

What weight spring did you install?

What factory ammo are you getting FTF with?  Do you get more with some types than others?

 

A few immediate actions...

As others have stated, clean out the striker channel...can almost guarantee there will be a ball of shavings in there.  Then, again, as others have stated, keep it dry so things don't gunk up.  

Even if that corrects the issue, you don't want to constantly be having to clean out the channel and/or be concerned that your striker has just barely enough strength to ignite the primer.  If you are in love with the trigger pull at it's current place, I'd suggest looking into a lightened striker - I've tried a few that have allowed me to run a slightly lighter spring with a bit more reliability. 

 

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2 hours ago, phil plesetz said:

The striker channel was fairly clean. No brass shavings with just a small amount of crud. It's now clean and dry. Purchased some Federal primers last night and will try next week.

The Federal primers will more than likely compensate for the FTF problem. However, I personally would not want to have to rely on HAVING to use only Feds. I have a Gen 3, Glock 34 with well over 40K rounds of reloads has a full lightened competition spring kit and Ghost Rocket connector. It is a pretty nice light trigger and all I have ever used is CCI or harder primers (Wolf, Winchester, S&B) loaded on my 650/1050. I have never had a FTF that I couldn't attribute to a short stroked high primer. I would double check operation with your current reloads and factory ammo choices before committing to using just Feds. Cleaning the gun, especially the striker channel will make a huge difference in the inertia properties of the trigger/striker.

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