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Staking tool


brian45acp

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I ordered it. Who here has actually used one? I would like to know the best way to use it. Do I stake the same spot the factory did?

I've searched all day and can't find anyone who used the thing. Cajun gun works says to restake the trigger bar/ mag release screw and the extractor pin hole. I've seen others say use loctite but again Cajuns web site say that's a bad idea and staking is best. Someone has to have used this thing but maybe because of the cost I'm the only idiot who bought it, lol. I like having proper tools so I don't mind the price so I can do this right.

Any tips would be appreciated.

Edited by brian45acp
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As of today 65k rnds through SP01. Have never staked the extractor pin. Spring tension on extractor keeps it in place. As easily as the pin came out the first time I removed it, I don't think it was staked. Just looked and see not indentation to indicate it was ever staked.

RE trigger bar/mag release screw. Mine was extremely difficult to remove the first time. Had to use a square shank screw driver and wrench to break it free. The stakes have not complete sheared off. Still hard to remove and I just reinstall and tighten. Never backed out. That said last weekend saw a CZ (don't know model) that had the screw back out. I suspect Cajun says no Loctite because of heat. Not so much as during a match, but practice session could heat the frame enough for the Loctite to release. I am referring to blue Loctitie, not red. Would not recommend using red at all.

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I will call Cajun tomorrow and see what they say about the stake tool. It seems just a little love tap with the special factory punch should put things back in order. I just need to know if the mark should be in that same spot or a new spot. I don't know what it's made of but it must be nasty. They always said CZ steel is tough so for this tool to make a mark into the steel like this it has to be crazy hard

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I have the tool and stake the extractor pin after removal, just a tap. But I don't know anyone else in my area that is doing that though. Early on I did have one extractor pin that started to walk out when I didn't use it, but I can't remember if that was was something I bought new (most of the time) or used.

The fact that I just give it a tap, either means that's all it needs, or it really doesn't need it and I'm doing nothing -- I don't know LOL.

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I don't think it's rocket science. I just wonder if hitting the same mark is ok or not. I try not to remove the pin but every 5k rounds or so. I flex the extractor by hand and shoot Kroil in there then air gun it out until starts looking clean.

My guns all have factory marks on both sides of the hole like they positioned the tool over the hole. I imagine just a tap on either side of the hole is all that is needed

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I don't think it's rocket science. I just wonder if hitting the same mark is ok or not.

CGW will tell you that staking the mag release spring screw is not rocket science & that you do not have to hit the same mark or buy the special cz tool. I just used a sharp punch on my two cz's at the same location as the original mark (I think they use a punch/chisel more shaped like the cz tool). I would buy the cz tool if I ever saw it at a fair price though (I am anal about good tools, but it is just a punch and it sure ain't worth no $50.00) .

When I took my guns apart, one of them was apparently not staked as intended by the factory, the screw came out very easily and showed no signs of being near a chisel. The gun was working fine.

After asking questions here and there I decided not to worry about staking the extractor pin holes.

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My CZ 85 had a long sharp gouge on the right side of the screw that displaced frame metal into the knurled side of the screw. I finally go it loose (had to use the thin bladed screw tips I bought to take my old Auto 5 apart. I didn't have any tips in my other two screw driver sets thin enough to fit that slot in the Pre B CZ 85. When I put the new springs in it I didn't try to restake it. Probably a good thing since I clean it every time I shoot (so I can inspect it) and I'm planning on a refinish job to spruce the old pistol up (so will be taking everything apart again anyway.

But, it looks like someone just used a 1/4 inch metal chisel, didn't look fancy at all. The "tool" may be fancy, the mark it left in the frame isn't.

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The trick is the metal this tool is made from is much harder then the steel of the gun.

What concerns me is that you can't keep staking the same part over and over so it needs to be used a few times for the life of the gun and no more.

I'm not sure why you would remove any of those parts to do a cleaning. I shoot it full of Kroil or ballistol and then air gun it out into a rag then repeat. It comes out spotless.

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I'm not sure why you would remove any of those parts to do a cleaning.

I'm not either. I removed them so I could make a modification, otherwise I'm not sure if or when they would ever need to be removed.

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