kneelingatlas Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Atlas, you don't mention any sear work along with that trigger. Did you just use a factory sear with no modification? Also, excuse my ignorance, but why polish the strut on a SAO gun? Is it just normal practice for you or did it actually make a difference? Modification of the sear is a delicate process I never recommend to others and almost never do myself. While a light polish on the friction points and contact edge of the sear can help smooth the break of the trigger, if you remove significant amounts of metal or change any of the angles, you do so at the risk of safety and reliability. A polished hammer strut smooths out the DA stroke significantly, but it also reduces the drag on the hammer fall in both DA and SA, the increased speed at which the hammer falls may not be detectable, nor the increased reliability in ignition, but every bit helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistolpete9 Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Appreciate the answers! I definitely got a little too carried away on this project. I will let you all know if I'm able to get it reliable enough to run with. If not, it looks like I'll be switching to the Grand Power while I wait on some new parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 T there seems to be some oddly sharp edges, like the bottom side of the safety when I'm engaging it and the bottom edges of the trigger guard all of the way up into the frame where they are finally "melded" in. Anybody sand these down? If so, how's it working for you now? Nice thing about your getting away from production class is you can fix that stuff. Dremeling is more fun than developing calluses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZ85Combat Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 David from CGW posted before that he never ever tries to polish the sear or hammer hooks on a CZ. the parts are only very thinly surfaced hardened and a small amount of polishing will result in the hammer falling. get a new sear and the hammer that Keelingatlas posted in post #2. this will give you the best possible trigger you can get! just install then make no modification to them. http://shop.cz-usa.com/ProductDetail/40108_Concealed-Hammer-Sa-Only Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistolpete9 Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Are you recommending a new factory sear? Don't those have to be fit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistolpete9 Posted June 20, 2016 Author Share Posted June 20, 2016 Well my working solution is holding for now. I removed more material underneath the hooks to "raise" them back up a little and give the sear something to grab on to. I predicted that it wouldn't work unless the pretravel screw was backed out a little and that held true. Definitely had to give up a millimeter or two of trigger travel but it's working for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistolpete9 Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 Ended up using the CGW RHK which works great in the TS. Don't forget the spacer of you do it too and expect to spend a little bit of time cussing at the hammer strut pin on the way out and a LOT of time cussing at it on the way back in. I also switched out the springs for CGW (using the blue mainspring), and went with a Dawson front sight. Between those parts and all of the grip work, rail polishing, and recoating, it is now a pistol that I really can't find much of any fault with. Pretty happy camper finally! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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