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Cleaning Bolt


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How much/often do I need to be removing the carbon buildup on the bolt above the gas rings? I have tried putting a little solvent on the area and using brushes to try and get it all off, but i think I am losing the battle. Is there really a need to get it spotless or am I driving myself crazy?

Thaks,

Zach

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No, not spotless, just don't let it build up. I have scraped it clean with a pocket knife and used a dremel with a small wire wheel. Just don't let it get bulky with carbon, thats all.

--

Regards,

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the easiest way I found is to use a 45 or better yet a 50 ae case as a scraper,

just put the skinny end bolt in the case, and use the mouth to scrape the crud off. and because bolt is captured by the case, there no worries about it hitting the gas rings or banging up your fingers.

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The bolt is the easy part to clean, fine wire brush on a bench grinder 15 seconds and its spotless. The carrier is the problem as its harder to get to the area needing to be cleaned. I've found that an ultrasonic cleaner like used for jewelry works great with a 50/50 mix of water and simple green. About 1 to 2 hours depending on degree of buildup and it will wash off with a blast of cleaning fluid. Have taken to disassembling the bolt/carrier group and chucking the whole thing in the cleaner comes out spotless. You can also make points with the wife/significant other by cleaning her jewely. LOL Keith

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I always thought the carbon in that area was self-limiting and you didn't have to scrap it. I rarely scrap it and my AR's run 100% (knock on wood).

However, maybe I should start scraping . . .

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I almost forgot about scraping the carbon outa the rear of the carrier beyond where the bolt stops. I use a small blade slot screwdriver with a sharp edge and scrape it away until I see a little metal around the firing pin hole. The carbon buildup may be self limiting in this area, but it is possible that it could build up to where it binds the bolt if ignored forever and ever and ever.

--

Regards,

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Carbon and ash build up has three places, the bolt, the carrier cavity, and the carrier key. In the key, they can restrict flow which can supposedly be the source of short recoil, but I have never seen it. In the carrier and on the bolt, it can cause the the bolt to have trouble closing. So clean it once in a while or accept malfunctions.

Bolt - You do not need to get it spotless, just do not let the ash layer get built up. You want the manganese phosphate layer to stay put and oiled, so go easy. No sand paper or emery cloth. I have always liked the scrap brass case as a scraper but go easy with it. The wire wheel can easily remove the phosphate layer, so I would stay away from that;

Carrier Cavity - The cavity also builds up ash. I just use the cleaning tool that Bushmaster carries. Brownell's has one too, but it is not as nice. Each time I clean the bolt, I also slide the tool in for a twist or two. Works great, and is easy.

Carrier Key - The GI manuals just suggest pipe cleaners with solvent.

Now for the other side of the topic. No less a luminary than Derrick Martin has done a torture test where he declined to clean a rifle for a season. It perked right along through the many practice sessions and local matches, and then with Perry coming up, he decided to go for it, and it just kept right on shooting. Excellent scores too. Now remember, he is a High Power shooter and master 'smith. You can bet that the rifle was friggen' perfect before he started this. And it was a 20" rifle shooting heavy bullets with slow powders, so the gas impulse is large. You folks shooting 16" rifles with shorty gas systems should know that they are more persnickety about ammo and their gas systems.

Choose your method based upon how risk averse you are.

Billski

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Derrick is a grease man on the bolt, carrier. He has his gun awash in grease. Probably doesn't throw his rifle in dirt much. But it did prove a point with clean burning powders. The AR design of gases in upper isn't a disadvantage as many people try to slight the AR for.

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