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Speer Brass


ryan45kim

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I’m running a glock 17 the only mods on the gun are sights and a Wolf reduced power stricker spring. I’m also using WSP primers I’m having problems with light striker hits but only with Speer brass, has anyone else run into this. Also do you think that switching over to federal SP primers would help?

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I'm coming on on 4K through my G34, and I've been running a Wolff reduced power striker spring the entire time. (A drop in the bucket compared to more experienced G34ers, I know.) The only misfire I've ever experienced was with the Russian Wolf ammo, on which the primers are harder than the hinges of hell. The gun has been 100 percent with Winchester factory ammo. I've also never had a problem with Speer brass in my reloads, though honesty does compel me to admit my 9mm reloads feature Federal 100 primers exclusively.

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Never had a problem with the standard frame Glocks/Win primer/Wolff spring. Only experienced this sort of thing with the large frames(G20,G21).

Skeeter is right on about seat depth. Make sure they are below flush & you should be good to go.

In the long run, save the trouble & go Federal on your primers. You might get a drop in velocity so chrono asap when you make the change.

Daniel

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Thanks for the replies guys, high primers were my first thought also, but when I went through my loaded rounds I could not find any high primers, I did notice that in the speer brass the primers were seated deeper then in the other cases (fed, win, s&b, ect) I guess I’m spoiled I started out with a single stack 45 then went to a p-16 and I could run any primers I wanted and never had a problem even with small rifle primers.

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Just for the record...a "high" primer is one that is not below flush. It needs to bottom out in the primer pocket. Often, that is about 0.005 below flush.

I have seen some Speer brass that kinda caves-in at the primer pocket some. I wonder if that would keep it far enough away from the breach face that it might make it a long reach for the striker?

I also only use Federal primers.

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I'm curious. Why the reduced power striker spring? I thought the only reason to go with a light striker spring was if you went with a light recoil spring. Am I wrong again? The original Glock 17 in its stock form was designed to set off European military(NATO)/police 9mm ammo, a lot of which has very hard primers.

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I use all sorts of mixed .40 brass in my M646 revolver, and I can tell you for sure that the Speer brass fits distinctly looser in the moonclips. The rim dimensions seem to be a little different--so I'm wondering if this might be part of the problem Ryan45Kim is noticing.

Mike

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Properly seated primers are very important. No way around that.

Another way to get a little bit of insurance is to lighten your stock firing pin with a dremel tool and a thin abrasive cut-off wheel. You basically "flute" the shaft of the firing pin with a number of cuts (parallel with the direction of movement) all the way around the shaft. Be careful on the "bottom" of the shaft that you don't nick the inside of the "head" of the firing pin. You can also make a deep cut on the top/back of the "head" of the firing pin (the part that interacts with the trigger bar). Then smooth out any sharp edges you may have created with sand paper and re-install. The weight savings will help the lighter spring get the firing pin moving toward the primer a bit faster.

I prefer this method over the titanium firing pins. I've had a couple of those wear out at the contact point with the trigger bar and make the gun go full auto. I've never worn out one of my modified stock firing pins.

Works for me. YMMV.

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