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Improving poor existing checkering on a production gun?


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I've used this riffler from brownells for checkering/serration work, and it is a very good tool. Not sure if it is the one WJM is using or not.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/hand-checkering-tools/checkering-rifflers/no-131-checkering-riffler-prod6766.aspx

If it is more than you want to spend try googling something like " riffler file smooth cut" , Amazon has some but am not sure about the quality. I'll say this, having nice files IMHO make what could be a chore into a pleasure. They cut better, cut straight, make a smoother finish, feel better in the hand which means one is less likely to make a mistake, etc.

I have a tanfo limited elite and the checkering is pretty good. But, the dust cover has been cut back and profiled and I want to do a little smoothing under the trigger guard where it rubs against a knuckle and is annoying. After doing that it is going to APW for refinish.

How would that one compare to this one:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/files/three-square-60-bent-needle-files-prod701.aspx

If I were to get one of these, should I be getting the fine medium or coarse?

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I have one of the "bent" files, also. (Isn't that still a riffler? Not sure why they call it a bent file) The one I have has a fine cut, but a medium would be good for sharpening checking, too. I like the double ended riffler a little better as it seems to be easier to control precisely.. That isn't such a big deal if there are already established checkering lines. I don't think either is hugely better than the other for cleaning up existing checking.

I think either would be fine for cleaning up the front strap checkering.

Getting a cheap file card at at harbor freight is helpful to keep the file clean, and some folks like to use chalk (just use blackboard chalk) to help keep the file clean.

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I think over time the cleaning out the old Liquid grip helped somewhat with the checkering. It's not as good as a file but my checkering seems to have gotten better over time and that's all I have done in the respect.

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60 degree file, and about 3 hours of work.

My .40 stock 2 still has better checkering than my 9mm, but I didn't want to put in the extra time into my 9mm and for right now it's plenty.

I wouldn't say "99%" of the Tanfoglios have aggressive texturing, in my experience it's right around half. But with the file from Brownells it fixed it no problem. I also use it to clean up my checkering before a match (I dry fire with it so much that it tears off my skin and it ends up making the texture useless unless I clean it)

WJM

Mind posting a link to the exact file you used?

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/files/fine-file-sku080648604-701-2881.aspx

I used an old handle for something don't remember what it was. But a wood handle that let me really make new checkering. Only reason I even know about this is my dads S2 9mm had the worst checkering I have ever felt. Now its 200% better.

Wyatt

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Wyatt, which one did you go with, fine medium or coarse? I would like the cleanest finished product, and clean valleys of my checkering, which makes me think the fine. I am concerned though, that the fine is not aggressive enough to remove the material I want to remove...

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The one I linked to is the fine one and thats the one I used.

The aggressive may take it off faster if thats what your worried about, but I put around 2 hours into it and a few blisters later and it turned out fantastic. I will post some before and after photos tonight when I get home from Australia.

The fine one is plenty tough for the job, however I don't know how many guns this file will do. I have a feeling that after any more than my dads S2 9mm it wouldn't be too useful.

Wyatt

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If you wanted to start checkering on an uncheckered pistol I would suggest the file you linked.

I thought of using that file (I own one and have used it for animal snaring purposes) but I didn't want to put that on my Tanfo.

Wyatt

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On different snares there are things called snare locks. (Sorry if it sounds like I may be talking down to anyone I just don't know how much knowledge they have of this.) And on the snare locks if you use that checkering file on it it will create teeth that will grind the snare cable between the lock.

It essentially makes the snare lock up much faster making the animal suffer much much less.

Wyatt

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