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Is the .22 conversion reliable?


aceinyerface

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I have one... at first it was very unreliable... But with the help of me taking a video of the gun in action, I was able to figure out what was wrong. the slide was hanging up on the frame at first, then after I fitted the slide to the frame, I was having issues with the slide hanging up on the decocker... I then found the at the striker plate wasn't beveled enough so I fitted the striker plate to the slide. It might sound like a lot of work, but I probably actually have only 30 minutes worth of time invested in a 100% reliable action now.

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I shoot a Ruger Mark III at the local steel plate shoots, but was thinking about buying a .22 conversion for my WItness Steel. I like the way the Witness feels in my hand, and I also shoot a Limited Pro in Custom Auto (added Henning magwell). The only thing that has worried me in the past is reliability. My Ruger performs 99.5% of the time and I can't afford one misfire or misfeed. With what I'm reading, is it safe to say that if I buy a new .22 conversion kit, with a little work, it should function nearly 100%, just like my Ruger (499 out 500)?

Edited by Big Nick
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I shoot a Ruger Mark III at the local steel plate shoots, but was thinking about buying a .22 conversion for my WItness Steel. I like the way the Witness feels in my hand, and I also shoot a Limited Pro in Custom Auto (added Henning magwell). The only thing that has worried me in the past is reliability. My Ruger performs 99.5% of the time and I can't afford one misfire or misfeed. With what I'm reading, is it safe to say that if I buy a new .22 conversion kit, with a little work, it should function nearly 100%, just like my Ruger (499 out 500)?

you are correct with a little bit of work (worth it to me at least but I like to tinker any ways) you should easily be at 499 out of 500. You should also be able to run what ever grade of ammo you can find to put through it.

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I've dry fired mine thousands of times. You have to drop the hammer to show the chamber is clear in competitions.

I meant on the rimfire slide. Maybe that has changed now too.

Yes I'm taking about my rimfire slide

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I shot my large frame 22 conversion today. 2 of the 3 mags I have don't engage the mag catch. Friction makes them seem like they are in. But after a round or two they move down and the slide doesn't strip the next round out of the mag. I tried seating them with some force and they just pull right out. The notch in the mag appears to be in the same place in each mag. So I'm not sure what the deal is.

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The issue I had with some of the older style mags was the ejector nub on the top was hitting my slide. This caused the slide to not move freely which then caused feeding issues. Once I (very carefully) filed down that nub until the slide moved freely, most of my issues were gone. See if your mags are hitting the slide with the ejector nub.

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Mine sometimes scraps lead off of unplated rounds. There is a buildup in the throat that begins to prevent going into battery after 50-100 rounds. Chucks of lead fall out when cleaning. Plated rounds do not have this issue.

I think a stiffer recoil spring may help in chambering. Maybe I need to look at the slide hitting the frame too.

Over a 1000 rounds though mine. Maybe 2000. When you shoot 100 - 200 per trip they add up fast.

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Also after changing the slide stop spring it locks back every time. I like having this feature.

The replacement spring should come with the conversion. Took 30 minutes or so, it is fiddlely. Should have taken 5 minutes. Never swapped back to 9mm.

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Mine sometimes scraps lead off of unplated rounds. There is a buildup in the throat that begins to prevent going into battery after 50-100 rounds. Chucks of lead fall out when cleaning. Plated rounds do not have this issue.

I think a stiffer recoil spring may help in chambering. Maybe I need to look at the slide hitting the frame too.

Over a 1000 rounds though mine. Maybe 2000. When you shoot 100 - 200 per trip they add up fast.

You shouldn't mess with recoil springs to fix chambering issues. Look/feel for points of drag when the slide cycles. You may need to polish the face of the hammer all the way around the round part at the top. Check for drag on the mags too.

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