9 mm reloading - Which Crimp die?

[Woodsk]

With FMJ or heavy plate, Lee FCD. With plated or coated taper crimp

[Sarge]

I quit using the Dillon dies originally purchased. I found my sizer would not prevent setback with certain brass brands. Namely FC. Walls must just be thin enough to not allow a nice tight neck. I went to a Udie and it was the cure. Have now backed off to a standard LEE sizer and all is still good. My machine will run just as fast with these dies as it ever did with Dillon. Probably because I take a lot of time to set the press up in perfect alignment whenever it hiccups.

[ES13Raven]

I quit using the Dillon dies originally purchased. I found my sizer would not prevent setback with certain brass brands. Namely FC. Walls must just be thin enough to not allow a nice tight neck. I went to a Udie and it was the cure. Have now backed off to a standard LEE sizer and all is still good. My machine will run just as fast with these dies as it ever did with Dillon. Probably because I take a lot of time to set the press up in perfect alignment whenever it hiccups.

Which brand dies do you use in each station now Sarge?

[Kaskillo]

Light crimp...I use Dillon crimp die.

[Sarge]

Currently LEE size/deprime, Redding Pro series seater (Not the $70 competition model) and LEE FCD because I like the adjustment knob.

[CeeZer]

IMHO separate crimp die isn't necessary for 9mm ammo. I use Hornady crimp/seating die and it works great for me.

You may want separate crimp die if you load different bullets with different OAL thou, but still not necessary.

[DGS]

I like the Dillon for 9mm.

[accu9]

As others have stated, ask 10 people and you will get 10 different answers. In my experiences, a quality taper crimp is more than adequate. Pick your poison: I have tried Redding, Hornady, Dillon and Lyman tapers in my 650 over the years and in various calibers. All perform well and as intended.

[Hill60]

I find that case length greatly determines the degree of resistance felt during the crimping - do you guys trim to length?

My Lee die instructions suggest turning the die down until it touches the case, then turning an additional 1/2 turn further. When I do that, it seems like there's way too much resistance - so I've been turning it down til it touches, then another 1/8 turn. Even then, case length seems to vary so much, that the degree of resistance on the stroke is different on each case.

[Sarge]

I find that case length greatly determines the degree of resistance felt during the crimping - do you guys trim to length?

My Lee die instructions suggest turning the die down until it touches the case, then turning an additional 1/2 turn further. When I do that, it seems like there's way too much resistance - so I've been turning it down til it touches, then another 1/8 turn. Even then, case length seems to vary so much, that the degree of resistance on the stroke is different on each case.

You talking pistol? Nobody I know trims a pistol case, ever. I think the resistance difference you feel is from loading mixed brass. It all has different wall thickness. This is one reason I sort all my brass by head stamp. I like every pull of the handle to feel the same or pretty close. When something feels "off" now I check the case for damage and typically find a defect

[Hill60]

I find that case length greatly determines the degree of resistance felt during the crimping - do you guys trim to length?

My Lee die instructions suggest turning the die down until it touches the case, then turning an additional 1/2 turn further. When I do that, it seems like there's way too much resistance - so I've been turning it down til it touches, then another 1/8 turn. Even then, case length seems to vary so much, that the degree of resistance on the stroke is different on each case.

You talking pistol? Nobody I know trims a pistol case, ever. I think the resistance difference you feel is from loading mixed brass. It all has different wall thickness. This is one reason I sort all my brass by head stamp. I like every pull of the handle to feel the same or pretty close. When something feels "off" now I check the case for damage and typically find a defect

Well, up until recently, most of the reloading that I've been doing has been rifle - so trimming is very much a part of the routine. I am running mixed headstamp pistol brass - but hadn't considered the difference in resistance being a result of variations in wall thickness. Makes perfect sense - thanks!

[mjohn]

After loading a lot of pistol calibers for years and experimenting with a lot of different die combinations in a 650, I think for 9mm your best bet are the Dillon dies. The reason.....A progressive press will always work smoother with dies that are designed for one. (i.e. a little larger opening) If you set up the press correctly (and many people believe they have but don't) and the brass you are using hasnt been abused (which shouldnt be a problem for 9mm) then it will work very well. I rarely ever have a round that wont gauge. If you want to use a Lee FCD, the impact on smoothness of operation is minimal, but noticeable. If you go to dies like the EGW undersize die to take out a Glock bulge in brass, you will significantly impact how smooth the press operates. You can minimize the effect by tearing down your press and using the Dillon alignment tool to get the press perfectly aligned, but it still wont operate as smoothly. A micrometer seating die just isnt necessary for almost any pistol loading.

In short, unlues you have a very good reason for needing to get tricky with your dies that isnt due to something else you are not doing correctly, stick with the Dillon dies and you will be happier.

I like what you have said. However..............

S&B

Aquila

CBC

Ammoland

Amerc

Fiocchi

and possibly some other lesser known head stamps will not case gauge (Dillion case gauge) after being produced on my 650 (Dillon dies) and using Zero 147gr FMJ bullets @ 1.135 OAL and having the brass sorted by head stamp.

[ES13Raven]

Currently LEE size/deprime, Redding Pro series seater (Not the $70 competition model) and LEE FCD because I like the adjustment knob.

I know you were a big fan of the EGW U-die for a long time. Why the change to the standard Lee?

[Sarge]

Currently LEE size/deprime, Redding Pro series seater (Not the $70 competition model) and LEE FCD because I like the adjustment knob.

I know you were a big fan of the EGW U-die for a long time. Why the change to the standard Lee?

I love the Udie but I did so much reading about how the regular LEE die was plenty small (tight) to prevent set back. So I got one and tried it. But I'm currently loading RP brass which has nice thick case walls. Everything is tight as a drum. Like I originally said, I got the Udie because I was getting set back with my Dillon die. But I narrowed it down to FC and Blazer brass as having really thin case walls. I never used it to make sure ammo would chamber. Everything I loaded chambered fine, even the loads where the bullet would push into the case after loaded. The Udie works really well at what it's designed to do and I will still use it on problematic brass as needed. I will do a test shortly and see if the standard LEE works well on FC and other thin case walled brass. If it does, for my purposes, there is really no need to work the brass so hard with the udie. Hope all of that made sense!

[Kaskillo]

I load mixed 9mm brass and you can feel the difference when you pull the handle.....need to sort by stamp

[ES13Raven]

I love the Udie but I did so much reading about how the regular LEE die was plenty small (tight) to prevent set back. So I got one and tried it. But I'm currently loading RP brass which has nice thick case walls. Everything is tight as a drum. Like I originally said, I got the Udie because I was getting set back with my Dillon die. But I narrowed it down to FC and Blazer brass as having really thin case walls. I never used it to make sure ammo would chamber. Everything I loaded chambered fine, even the loads where the bullet would push into the case after loaded. The Udie works really well at what it's designed to do and I will still use it on problematic brass as needed. I will do a test shortly and see if the standard LEE works well on FC and other thin case walled brass. If it does, for my purposes, there is really no need to work the brass so hard with the udie. Hope all of that made sense!

Yes, makes sense. It will be interesting to see what you find with the Standard Lee and thin walled cases.

[bowenbuilt]

Unlike the straight walled cases the FCD should not resize a bullet in 9mm. IF there is a bulge in the lower part of the case it will catch it but the bullets should not even touch the carbide ring. I find the regular Lee die sizes small enough to load most pistol rounds perfectly with plenty of case tension to prevent any setback unless the cases are ultra thin.

[mgrs]

Unlike the straight walled cases the FCD should not resize a bullet in 9mm. IF there is a bulge in the lower part of the case it will catch it but the bullets should not even touch the carbide ring. I find the regular Lee die sizes small enough to load most pistol rounds perfectly with plenty of case tension to prevent any setback unless the cases are ultra thin.

I never considered this, but it makes sense being that it is a tapered case.

My dillon dies have been consistent enough that I am not planning to change anything, although the decapper does throw primers all over the place!

[himurax13]

I use the EGW/Lee Undersized die and Dillon seater and crimp dies on my 550 and 650.

I then use an EGW Chamber checker for every round.

If I have some out of spec rounds, I use a Lee FCD and a Lee Hand press to fix it. Usually that works but if it doesn't, then I toss the cartridge in the to be pulled pile.

Edited January 22, 2015 by himurax13

[ES13Raven]

I have had very good results with my 550b and Lee dies. I recently switched to the EGW U-die (made by Lee) and that in combination with the FCD, yields 99/100 rounds passing my EGW case gauge using mixed headstamps.

[Sarge]

Usually that works but if it doesn't, then I toss the cartridge in the to be pulled pile.

Use them for practice instead of pulling them. 99% of the time they work just fine. I don't pull anything I don't absolutely have to!

[himurax13]

Usually that works but if it doesn't, then I toss the cartridge in the to be pulled pile.

Use them for practice instead of pulling them. 99% of the time they work just fine. I don't pull anything I don't absolutely have to!

I should try that but my pull pile consists of cartridges that I used simply for setting up the OAL and rounds that might be squibs. It is starting to get quite large.

[Kaskillo]

I use the EGW/Lee Undersized die and Dillon seater and crimp dies on my 550 and 650.

I then use an EGW Chamber checker for every round.

If I have some out of spec rounds, I use a Lee FCD and a Lee Hand press to fix it. Usually that works but if it doesn't, then I toss the cartridge in the to be pulled pile.

This is why I roll size all my brass before loading. It takes care of the case bad and rim.....very, very few rejects.

[Wheeljack]

Lee dies. It's what I have. I insert the bullet in the seating die with just enough crimp, .378. The FCD with the floating adjuster removed, does not change the crimp but it does remove the coke shape of the shell. I crimp to .378 with the seating die and then I run it thru the FCD and the mouth crimp does not change, but the shell has a straight taper. Comparing it to a commercial bullet, the L&B bullets I have, they measure .374 at the mouth.

I am getting a Ruger CLR in 9mm. They have a warning about bullets without enough tapper may move forward in the shell and jamb the revolver. There was a video on Youtube about this. Ruger's answer is to not use a brand of bullet that jambs the revolver. My answer, if this happens, is to use the FCD to increase taper. The FCD is able to crimp my bullets to .369. I hope I don't have to put that much tapper on.

[Niland]

I use the Dillon to just remove the belling. It's very consistent and I don't have to worry about it.

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