darkmod Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share Posted July 12, 2014 (edited) You should post your location in the profile area on the left. I have had members here bring brand new machines over and place them on my bench. An hour later all is well and they're on their way, friends for life. Sorry about that, im in Orange County, California. Ive actually recieved several offers already to help which i greatly appreciate. The BE forums seem like an excellent community. A bit of an update: Ive adjusted my primer seating depth to my liking, and it couldnt have been easier. Its just a single allen screw on top of the shellplate. I came to terms with having to adjust the dies, mostly because its not an unreasonable requirement and it only took a couple of minutes. The biggest problem im still having is powder spillage, so i have a few options to look into i guess. Havent even bothered messing with the swaging arm, I havent noticed any difficulty in priming (But maybe i wouldnt on a 1050...) so ill just take it at its word that its working properly. The other thing thats kind of an even bigger problem is periodically the powder measure will dump half the charge onto the shellplate when i lift it up. Im pretty sure im leaving it in the down position long enough for the powder to spool all the way through the charge bar. Its happened twice and now i have quite a bit of powder in the little nooks and crannies of the press. By the way, heres a picture of my current setup (I always appreciated it when others posted pictures) Edited July 12, 2014 by darkmod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Wayne Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 (edited) Good, you're systematically working through issues....powder has probably gotten under the shellplate and is slowing it enough that the drop funnel and the brass case may not be lining up perfectly. Take the shellplate off and do a good cleaning. The bench looks great. I would bolt it back into the studs in the wall with lag bolts and a couple of washers under the head of each lag bolt. If the powder spills because the brass is too full you may want to switch to a powder with less volume. I mostly use Tite-group for this reason. My cases are one-third full, no spills. I'm not sure why the powder is not exiting the measure and powder funnel. The powder slide has to make its' full stroke to dump completely. If the failsafe rod with the blue plastic thumbscrew at the bottom is not tight enough the powder slide will not make its' full stroke. The powder funnel/brass belling drop should be cleaned inside and out with alcohol so it is oil free. Isopropyl is best or I just fill a cup full with Jack Daniels and use a qtip. Then just drink what's leftover :^) Edited July 12, 2014 by John Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 (edited) A bit of an update: Ive adjusted my primer seating depth to my liking, and it couldnt have been easier. Its just a single allen screw on top of the shellplate. The other thing thats kind of an even bigger problem is periodically the powder measure will dump half the charge onto the shellplate when i lift it up. Im pretty sure im leaving it in the down position long enough for the powder to spool all the way through the charge bar. Its happened twice and now i have quite a bit of powder in the little nooks and crannies of the press. The priming system push rod is threaded into the tool head, not trying to be anal but it will help with describing future issues using the names Dillon gave them.Powder will drop almost instantly. Loading a round with a small case mouth (like .223) using an extruded powder (Varget, most IMR powders and others) can cause bridging. The powder measure drops the charge but some or all of it may get held in the drop tube as the "sticks" clog the mouth. When you lower the case (or with the 1050 raise the tool head) the backed up powder then has somewhere to go and falls onto the shell plate. If the powder is bridging like this, no amount of dwell will help. However, a ball powder like 748, TAC, x termanator and others will not bridge like the extruded powders will. What powder are you using? On the 1050 you can't complete the stroke if the shell plate is not lined up. Dowels in the tool head must pass through holes in the shell plate, so I don't see that being your problem. This is a video of my .223 1050 loading, no waiting on the powder. Edited July 12, 2014 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Bird Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 Buy the maintenance kit, and extra index pawls. You'll need em. I just hit 15,000 rounds of 9mm on my s1050 and have never replaced an index pawl. It looks like the index pawl is the part that actually rotates the shell plate at the end of the handle up stroke. What causes them to go bad? Wear? I bought a spare parts kit, but it doesn't have an index pawl in it. He is running an autodrive. I haven't had to buy any myself (after who knows how many thousands of rounds), also running autodrives but I can see how they can be damaged if the clutch is set too tight.I can see how a 1050 could be overwhelming for a new to progressive loader person, or even one who has been loading for a while. Just treat it like another press and start setting it up one station at a time. You will have a lot better luck than just filling everything up and start cranking. Think of it more like a racecar and less like a microwave. A little testing and tuning is required vs. throwing the popcorn bag in and hitting the button. I understand the frustration though, just take a breath, walk away and get back to it when the frustration subsides. Dam good advice. Take it from one who knows. Chill Dude, it will all be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkmod Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share Posted July 12, 2014 A bit of an update: Ive adjusted my primer seating depth to my liking, and it couldnt have been easier. Its just a single allen screw on top of the shellplate. The other thing thats kind of an even bigger problem is periodically the powder measure will dump half the charge onto the shellplate when i lift it up. Im pretty sure im leaving it in the down position long enough for the powder to spool all the way through the charge bar. Its happened twice and now i have quite a bit of powder in the little nooks and crannies of the press. The priming system push rod is threaded into the tool head, not trying to be anal but it will help with describing future issues using the names Dillon gave them.Powder will drop almost instantly. Loading a round with a small case mouth (like .223) using an extruded powder (Varget, most IMR powders and others) can cause bridging. The powder measure drops the charge but some or all of it may get held in the drop tube as the "sticks" clog the mouth. When you lower the case (or with the 1050 raise the tool head) the backed up powder then has somewhere to go and falls onto the shell plate. If the powder is bridging like this, no amount of dwell will help. However, a ball powder like 748, TAC, x termanator and others will not bridge like the extruded powders will. What powder are you using? On the 1050 you can't complete the stroke if the shell plate is not lined up. Dowels in the tool head must pass through holes in the shell plate, so I don't see that being your problem. This is a video of my .223 1050 loading, no waiting on the powder. Yeah I think you hit the nail on the head: I use almost exclusively extruded powders for .223. Mainly varget and 4895, sometimes benchmark. I began working up loads with blc2 a few years ago and didn't finish the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 I fought that battle for a while even bought an LNL to try the Hornady measure, wound up developing loads using ball powders or very fine extrusions for my progressive loading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorfish Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 (edited) In the picture the OP posted I'm pretty sure I see the small powder bar. Hopefully this has been changed to the large powder bar. I also see the paperwork still in the hopper of the powder measure so I'm assuming this was the press when it was first "un-boxed". (I always go with the "The only stupid question is one not asked" mentality so pardon me for asking the "stupid" question ) Edited July 13, 2014 by razorfish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkmod Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 In the picture the OP posted I'm pretty sure I see the small powder bar. Hopefully this has been changed to the large powder bar. I also see the paperwork still in the hopper of the powder measure so I'm assuming this was the press when it was first "un-boxed". (I always go with the "The only stupid question is one not asked" mentality so pardon me for asking the "stupid" question ) Yeah lol, that was the pic i took when i had everything mounted. I destroyed the small powder bar trying to drop the appropriate charge, and have since removed the powder measure paperwork and installed the large powder bar. Ive tinkered with the 1050 a bit more and have it pumping out .223 like a champ. The one thing holding me back is it flinging powder. That and its propensity to let extruded powder dump when the handle is raised. Im going to have to come to terms with using a ball powder i guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Freeman Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Yeah lol, that was the pic i took when i had everything mounted. I destroyed the small powder bar trying to drop the appropriate charge, and have since removed the powder measure paperwork and installed the large powder bar. Ive tinkered with the 1050 a bit more and have it pumping out .223 like a champ. The one thing holding me back is it flinging powder. That and its propensity to let extruded powder dump when the handle is raised. Im going to have to come to terms with using a ball powder i guess. I did some polishing to the powder measure and reworked the powder funnel and mine throws Varget and Benchmark better than my $250 Harrell benchrest powder measures... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Tom, you experience is quite valuable in this area, do you have a step by step or photos of what has worked for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Freeman Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Tom, you experience is quite valuable in this area, do you have a step by step or photos of what has worked for you? Brian had put my post on how exactly to do this somewhere around here. Look for Dillon Powder Measure Tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigs Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Havent even bothered messing with the swaging arm, I havent noticed any difficulty in priming (But maybe i wouldnt on a 1050...) so ill just take it at its word that its working properly. The more subtle symptoms of insufficient swaging are primers that shave a crescent shaped piece of brass off the top edge, leading to a flat shiny spot on that primer, and other primers potentially getting crescent shaped dents in them from the shavings. These shaved primers and dented primers will still function fine as long as the problem is not severe. If the shiny section is only the very edge then it's minor, if the primer is flat and shiny along one whole side, then it should not be used as that means there was significant damage to the cup wall on that side. Severe underswaging will lead to partially seated primers that have bulges along one edge that stand proud of the base, or even sideways primers. These should be decapped and redone and you should not attempt to use these. I've never had a detonation decapping a live primer, but it is a slight possibility so take a few minor precautions like emptying the spent primer bin first and put on ear protection if you don't always wear it. (it would make a huge mess if a live one went off into your full spent primer bin). Once you gain more experience you can hear these problems without looking at the primed brass, it makes a crunching noise when it happens. The louder the crunching noise the more severe the problem. If you hear an unusual noise on priming, start counting in your head. When you get to 5, catch the next two pieces of brass coming out and check the primer. Sometimes a shaving from a crunch can stay on the priming ram for a while and dent quite a few subsequent primers, so that's why you check the one after the crunch as well. Another caveat regarding your swaging set up, make sure that the swage rod isn't popping the shell plate up more than a tiny amount. I have warped a shell plate by running the swage system with too much shellplate pop. The symptom of this is that you start to get misfeeds on station one, the feeder won't fully insert the brass because the shellplate is higher than it should be due to turning very slightly funnel shaped. Only takes maybe 3 thousandths of warp to ruin a shell plate. On the plus side I discovered a way to fix a slight funnel warp on a 1050 shell plate, simply lap the bottom side with sandpaper on a very flat surface (thick glass works) until you see the shiny section start to extend out from the center, indicating that you have taken a couple thousandths of metal off. But best not to ruin the flatness of your shellplates in the first place. The Dillon shellplates are only case hardened and can take a bend more easily than one might think. I know this is probably way more than you wanted to know but I hope this post might be helpful to others as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ams30gts Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Well, I sold a 650 and bought a 1050 just for the built in swager. Big mistake on my part. The 650 is just a much better designed machine. The 1050 jams up here and there and the priming system is a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 am....do some research here. There is a lot of experienced loaders with 1050s that would disagree. I don't have a favorable impression of the priming system on the 650, nor the case feed system. Give your self some time to learn the 1050. It has a learning curve.... DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I think the primer feed on the 650 is the best ever made myself. The SD, 550 and 1050 all use the plastic orifice tip, if you have problems put a new tip on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Bird Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Hey, I ordered the primer tube and tip from Dillon. Would not work, the brass tip was completely round and did not have the place that it locked into the bottom. Did I screw up again and miss something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbauer67 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Good, you're systematically working through issues....powder has probably gotten under the shellplate and is slowing it enough that the drop funnel and the brass case may not be lining up perfectly. Take the shellplate off and do a good cleaning. The bench looks great. I would bolt it back into the studs in the wall with lag bolts and a couple of washers under the head of each lag bolt. If the powder spills because the brass is too full you may want to switch to a powder with less volume. I mostly use Tite-group for this reason. My cases are one-third full, no spills. I'm not sure why the powder is not exiting the measure and powder funnel. The powder slide has to make its' full stroke to dump completely. If the failsafe rod with the blue plastic thumbscrew at the bottom is not tight enough the powder slide will not make its' full stroke. The powder funnel/brass belling drop should be cleaned inside and out with alcohol so it is oil free. Isopropyl is best or I just fill a cup full with Jack Daniels and use a qtip. Then just drink what's leftover :^) If you are loading pistol adding the roller bearing to the shell plate makes the spiliing go away. If your loading rifle, what powder are you using? Tell your not using varget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkmod Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Good, you're systematically working through issues....powder has probably gotten under the shellplate and is slowing it enough that the drop funnel and the brass case may not be lining up perfectly. Take the shellplate off and do a good cleaning. The bench looks great. I would bolt it back into the studs in the wall with lag bolts and a couple of washers under the head of each lag bolt. If the powder spills because the brass is too full you may want to switch to a powder with less volume. I mostly use Tite-group for this reason. My cases are one-third full, no spills. I'm not sure why the powder is not exiting the measure and powder funnel. The powder slide has to make its' full stroke to dump completely. If the failsafe rod with the blue plastic thumbscrew at the bottom is not tight enough the powder slide will not make its' full stroke. The powder funnel/brass belling drop should be cleaned inside and out with alcohol so it is oil free. Isopropyl is best or I just fill a cup full with Jack Daniels and use a qtip. Then just drink what's leftover :^) If you are loading pistol adding the roller bearing to the shell plate makes the spiliing go away. If your loading rifle, what powder are you using? Tell your not using varget. Of course im using varget haha. Other powders i use would be 4895 and benchmark. They are all very simlilarly profiled and have similar charges. I know spherical powder meters better in a dillon measure, but thats a little depressing that i cant use extruded powders in the finest home reloading progressive press ever made. Maybe i should use the hornady powder measure with the 1050, never had a problem with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) Hey, I ordered the primer tube and tip from Dillon. Would not work, the brass tip was completely round and did not have the place that it locked into the bottom. Did I screw up again and miss something.The brass tip tube is for the 650 all of the rest use the plastic tip. The indexing tab is 180deg from the split on plastic tips. The part is designed to fail if something gets jammed up. The brass tips have no split, so no need to index them.You might talk to Tom, he has used the 650 Tube in a 1050. I just swap the tip out myself when the go bad, they are free and I have never lit off a primer in 30 years of loading and don't want to start now. Edited July 16, 2014 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Bird Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Tom ? Do I know him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Tom ? Do I know him. Sorry, he posted #34&36. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angus6 Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 am....do some research here. There is a lot of experienced loaders with 1050s that would disagree. I don't have a favorable impression of the priming system on the 650, nor the case feed system. Give your self some time to learn the 1050. It has a learning curve.... DougC Got to agree , the 1050 is so much a simpler machine to use verses a 650, I added a 650 and 550 after the 1050 because I came across some deals the were to insane to pass on , but found I'd much rather load with the 1050 so now it and a SS and Star are the onlything on the bench now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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