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CZ 75/SPO1 Safety


Vanniek71

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Fells/ladies,

I have developed this awesome habit of flipping my safety on on a few of my draws (i have the wide safety on my ACCU Shadow) and I was wanting to try the lower profile safety since I don't use it anyways. Wondering if anyone had the low profile safety laying around they may want to get rid of? I'd pop this in the classifieds, but I figured this might be better off in the CZ forum.

Now I know more dry fire will likely cure this as well, but I wanted to see what the difference was in the feel too.

Atlas? I know you have 10,000,000 parts laying around.....anyone else?

Let me know!

Edited by Vanniek71
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Also another question since I started this thread, my gun seems to have an issue with the safety.

In DA with the safety engaged I can pull the trigger, and although it is a harder trigger pull, the hammer will still cock and fall if I pull hard enough. In SA it will not let the hammer fall no matter how hard I pull the trigger.

I took the upper off and tested it, and I can see the sear cage move a little and if I keep pulling the trigger it allows the hammer to fall. Also if I put my finger on the safety as I pull the trigger I can feel the tension as well, but then again it lets the hammer fall.

I am assuming that this is not right. Suggestions? What to look for? I want to make sure this gun is safe even though I am not using the safety in matches.

I got an answer on this from Stuart of CZC in case anyone else was wondering on this:

the safety on the CZ is designed only the block the sear in single action when the hammer is back.

it is not designed to block or stop anything when the hammer is down.

if you do this in double action you can damage the sear.

This is from the Shadow manual

Engaging the Safety
Push the safety up to the Safety-On position (Fig.5) until the red warning dot is covered.
The safety in this position blocks the trigger mechanism and slide, thus preventing the pulling of the trigger and operating the slide.
Since the trigger mechanism has been specifically adjusted, it is possible to move the safety onto the "SAFE" position even if the hammer is placed on the safety notch or leaned against the slide.
In this case, however, it is not recommended to engage the safety because the trigger mechanism might be damaged when cocking the hammer by force.
Besides the method previously described it is possible to put the pistol into a safety mode and still be ready to fire immediately:
Load the pistol.
Grasp the grip, POINT IN A SAFE DIRECTION. With a thumb press on the grooved area (thumb piece) of the hammer, pull the trigger and release the hammer slowly forward (Fig. 6) until it rests on the action or safety notch of the hammer.
Release the trigger.
Practice this operation very carefully to avoid an accidental discharge! We strongly recommend to practice this operation beforehand wit h the pistol unloaded!
In this state the pistol is safe for all normal handling and at the same time ready for immediate use.
Please remember that the safest way to secure a pistol is to unload it and store it in a safe place!
Edited by Vanniek71
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I have seen free discussing here about the safety partially engaging when the hammer is down. You might check for that.

I chose to train myself to ride my thumb on top of the safety so that if it was on for any reason then my normal drawstroke would disengage it. This gives you the added benefit of being able to shoot cocked and locked with no real modification to your normal draw (assuming legality with your division like ESPN, 3gun, Limited, etc.).

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I try to rest my thumb on top of the safety when I draw as well and like I said dry fire would likely cure the issue I was having, I just wanted to give a lower profile safety a try and see what it felt like before I decided on one option or the other.

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I installed this but didn't see a huge difference. I finally stopped flipping the stupid safety when I practiced to not do it anymore. Just spend a half day and do a bunch of drills drawing the gun and focus on getting your thumb up and over the safety. That's all you need.

Have you tried the extra power thumb safety springs? You can still flip them on but it makes it MUCH harder.

http://www.dsperman.com/products/CZSpring/CZSpring.html

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this will stop the safety from being able to be engaged with the hammer down.
AS-B - CGW's exclusive adjustable billet sear. Made from premium high carbon steel, heat treated, and mirror polished. Makes installation of the CZC Competition hammer or CGW's Race hammer fool-proof and effortless.

001_207x152.jpg

Edited by CZ85Combat
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this will stop the safety from being able to be engaged with the hammer down.
AS-B - CGW's exclusive adjustable billet sear. Made from premium high carbon steel, heat treated, and mirror polished. Makes installation of the CZC Competition hammer or CGW's Race hammer fool-proof and effortless.

001_207x152.jpg

Ohhh I like this even if the safety can be engaged!

Edited by Vanniek71
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yeah the safety is not meant to be able to be engaged with the hammer forward. some guns that have had comp hammers fitted seem to be able to engage.

I also think (from my own playing internally) the right hand side safety at least (possibly the left too but I didn't check) stops the trigger bar moving rearward. if you look at the right side safety there is something of a cam on the inside (also has the lip to engage with the detent). once it's in and turned to 'safe' it's blocking that corner of the trigger bow and stops you moving the trigger bow by pulling the trigger. so as best I can tell it blocks the release of the sear from the safety notch, but the little cam also should be blocking the trigger bow/bar.

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