CZ Accu Shadow Initial Review & Light Strikes

[Vanniek71]

I'll check mine when I get home for you.

[Quack]

My CZC is measuring 2.51" on my caliper and micrometer.

[Vanniek71]

My CZC is measuring 2.51" on my caliper and micrometer.

I'll check mine when I get home to compare

[Supranatural]

True, but it looks like the blue is not for Shadows

Also here is a direct link for the blue grips for the Shadows http://dlaskarms.com/collections/cz-custom-and-accessories/products/cz-75-75b-85-low-profile-grips-standard-size-aluminum-blue

Any idea if those grips are the the same thickness as the "thin" aluminum grips that come on the Shadow?

[AirForce2]

The accu shadow already came with a long/ext firing pin. If memory serves me, the spring on the firing pin was already either cut down or weak as well. I think the CZ 13 # hammer spring was cut down also, and replaced it with the 15# from CGW but I don't remember if I cut the CGW or put it in full length now, but I think I left it full length. I don't shoot Tula or CCI primers much, just at the time it was the only ammo I could find reasonable price at the time due to the ammo & component shortage and bought 2k until I could get normal components. Just surprised so many people can shoot such a lower pd spring ie...8-13 pd with no issues and a 15# is still iffy for mine. I don't shoot Tula for any matches, just mix it in for practice and it prints pretty well for the price. I don't figure I shoot it enough to make a large "erosion" problem if the jacket is copper coated metal jacket. I just don't like having any gun go "click" instead of bang.

I gave my accu to a guy recommended and local to me that used to work at the CZ custom shop and claimed he'd done hundreds of throat reams/extensions using a technique without a reamer/throater so I gave him 10 of my exact measured Mont Gld loaded dummy rounds at 1.130 OAL in HP 124gr and when I got it back it wouldn't lock up because the bullets were smushing into the rifling still and would barely take 1.110 with still resistance. Long story short, I fixed it myself. The guy that did the work said "it doesn't matter how it hand cycles it still will function under fire". There is never a time or firearm that should have resistance due to the bullet wedging into the rifling during loading is what I told him. One for functioning and 2nd for compressing the load.

[himurax13]

I am wondering what method he used. A reamer and handle from manson reamers is just a hair over $60. Have you tried the pencil test with different weight springs? Perhaps there are some machine grooves in the firing pin channel that need smoothing.

[AirForce2]

I'm not familiar with the pencil test? I suppose I could flashlight the channel and check for burrs. tks

[himurax13]

I'm not familiar with the pencil test? I suppose I could flashlight the channel and check for burrs. tks

It is simple.

You take a #1 or #2 wooden pencil and drop the eraser end into the barrel.

You then cock the hammer, press the trgiger, and see how far it goes.

If it doesn't leave the barrel, you may have a problem.

You can also use it to compare against another similarly equipped pistols.

[AirForce2]

Got it, tks. I'll have to try that. I don't understand some of these new fangled technical slang terms being out of shooting for years. Something else I'm dabbling with now is taking the hajo rear sight, I sanded the rear sight notch to rough it up and filled in the whole rear sight with JB Weld and cut a shorter square top to bottom and side to side to see if this closes up the gap to match my new Dawson .090 width front fiber sight a little better and then paint the rear black again. I'll post pics and dimensions later. Beats spending $150-200 for a new rear adj sight that doesn't do what I want.

Does anyone know if it's legal in USPSA Production class to remove some of the top corners of the rear sight? I'm not talking about the square portion you align the front sight in, but say to grind down the portion on the top left & right of the rear sight say around the rear notch about 1/4 on each side grinded down at an angle from the notch? I just don't like all that block on the back sight.

[Vanniek71]

I filed the corners on my Hajo, merely because on a fast reload and then racking the slide the sharp corners would cut my hand. Shoot every weekend and that's a sore, bloody summer

[himurax13]

Got it, tks. I'll have to try that. I don't understand some of these new fangled technical slang terms being out of shooting for years. Something else I'm dabbling with now is taking the hajo rear sight, I sanded the rear sight notch to rough it up and filled in the whole rear sight with JB Weld and cut a shorter square top to bottom and side to side to see if this closes up the gap to match my new Dawson .090 width front fiber sight a little better and then paint the rear black again. I'll post pics and dimensions later. Beats spending $150-200 for a new rear adj sight that doesn't do what I want.

Does anyone know if it's legal in USPSA Production class to remove some of the top corners of the rear sight? I'm not talking about the square portion you align the front sight in, but say to grind down the portion on the top left & right of the rear sight say around the rear notch about 1/4 on each side grinded down at an angle from the notch? I just don't like all that block on the back sight.

Well the pencil test has been around as long as there have been 1911 gunsmiths. My CZ Shadow hammers hit just as hard or harder than my 1911's. Light primer strikes simply do not happen, even with my 11.5# CGW hammer springs with 1 coil removed.

How wide is the notch on your rear sight? CZ Customs sells fixed Hajo sights with .125" notches. The corners are also rounded off at a 45 degree angle instead of the squarish competish sights. They also have a forward ledge for racking the slide off your belt/holster. My adjustable HAJO sight has rounded corners and a .125" notch as well.

A .090" front sight blade is offaly thin. I am currently running .100" Dawsons as well as the CZC front sights and I am still trying to figure out which one I like better.

[CZ85Combat]

Something else I'm dabbling with now is taking the hajo rear sight, I sanded the rear sight notch to rough it up and filled in the whole rear sight with JB Weld and cut a shorter square top to bottom and side to side to see if this closes up the gap to match my new Dawson .090 width front fiber sight a little better and then paint the rear black again. I'll post pics and dimensions later. Beats spending $150-200 for a new rear adj sight that doesn't do what I want.

Tightening up the gap of the sight will slow you down in USPSA/IDPA. Shooting the games at 10 yards or less you look for a front sight focus, with the rear sight some what close. Do a 5 shot test at the range, set up a target at 7 yards, put a 1" dot on the A of the A zone USPSA target as an aiming point. shot # 1 make a perfect shot, shot #2 aim with the front sight post all the way to the right of the rear sight notch , shot #3 aim with the front sight post all the way to the left of the rear sight notch. shot #4 aim with the top of the front sight post at the bottom of the notch. shot #5 aim with bottom of front sight post at top of the rear sight. what you should find is that at 7-10 yards all 5 shots are A zones hits. your not shooting Bulseye, the name of the game is time & score, a wider gap will allow you to go faster at the shorter ranges.

[AirForce2]

My mistake I guess I don't have the hajo rear then, cause it's the big perfect squared off version straight across. In the early 90's I started off for couple years in limited division then for most of next 8 years mostly open division w/dot optics and when I went back to limited occasionally mixed in, I distinctly remember having this same issue of limited gun shots that seemed good sight pic but to many not on target when shooting fast and that was when I was shooting pretty good and quite a bit in open class . I'll admit I've not been practicing speed a lot and only 2 small local uspsa matches since 2000. I have no problem shooting slow/med speed & accurate but feel like the sights front & rear might help me a little. Maybe all mental.

[himurax13]

Well the adjustable Hajo comes with the angled off corners as well as the squared one. The. Best sights is a personal choice. Less space between the sights is better for long range accuracy while wider space allows for speed.

[Vanniek71]

My mistake I guess I don't have the hajo rear then, cause it's the big perfect squared off version straight across. In the early 90's I started off for couple years in limited division then for most of next 8 years mostly open division w/dot optics and when I went back to limited occasionally mixed in, I distinctly remember having this same issue of limited gun shots that seemed good sight pic but to many not on target when shooting fast and that was when I was shooting pretty good and quite a bit in open class . I'll admit I've not been practicing speed a lot and only 2 small local uspsa matches since 2000. I have no problem shooting slow/med speed & accurate but feel like the sights front & rear might help me a little. Maybe all mental.

Does your sight say anything on it? I know my Hajo has no writing. I also have a Custom Shadow Target and it has a Kensight on it which is the big square one. But it is Kensight stamped in to it.

[Vanniek71]

My CZC is measuring 2.51" on my caliper and micrometer.

I'll check mine when I get home to compare

my firing pin was 2.509 so damned close to yours Quack

[himurax13]

I compared the CZC and CGW firing pins a while ago and they were basically the same.

[AirForce2]

These pics may not do it justice, but took down the side rear corners and recut the rear notch and attached pics. There is more light on either side than me holding a cell and centering the sight shows. I'll try it and see.

Edited April 17, 2015 by AirForce2

[AirForce2]

just found out my sight above is the Competition Hajo and there are set screws under my sight once remove the height screw. No wonder it was so hard to move the unit for windage. We'll see.

[AirForce2]

Well, I was wrong again. Took out the screw that adjusts elevation and lifted up the sight blade hinge and there is no spots for or any set screw, sight is just really hard to move left/right so gotta order a sight adj tool. Takes way to much of a hit to move it with a punch and risk moving it to far, then hammering back and forth. I need to spring for a fully adjustable one at some point.

What is a good durable fully adj elev & windage sight for the CZ accu shadow that you guys think is most durable nowadays. That fits the CZ accu shadow cut.

[AirForce2]

So I shot my first major matchs in 15 years in CO, Rocky Mtn 300 and a few weeks later the Mile High Showdown. I shot 3 local matches total the past 15 months (mainly just to get super classifier and couple other classifier stages) after a cold stop to shooting for 15 years leading up to these and practiced just stand and shoot and maybe 2 hrs total over the past year of dry firing, drawing from holster and getting used to the double action first shot, did some sight in and stand and shoot at the local range. This was my first bigger match in production class, minor which also didn't exist or was new back when I stopped shooting in 2000. I came in 10 out of 28 production and 4th of 8 B class in Rky Mtn 300 and slow safe and out of 350 rds (60 rd stages) had no penalties or no shoots or misses except for some steel. I shot the Mile high showdown and came in 4th of 11 B class production, 10th out of 40 production and 55th out of 140 (all classes combined). I had 4 bad stages out of 12 but I was able to shoot faster & normal, so I can't complain with as little practice I've done.

If you need some 10 rd mags for production and prefer mecgar mags over cz mags, order the 10 rd mecgars w/plastic base pads $31 (same price as 17 or 19 rdr's and use a pointed hard grinding bit and grind out the dimples on each side of the mecgar that limit the follower from going down past holding 10 rds (I say grind because my titanium drill bits don't do it), this leaves appx 1/4 inch holes, then use small polishing bits to go thru the hole and polish the inside/outside rough edges and poof, you'll have 17 rd mecgars to use or 10 rd's. They all functioned fine after. The follower & springs and mag bodies are just 17 rd mecgars with dimples to limit the follower from going past 10.

The only thing that bugs me on the sights and maybe it's this way with all accu shadows is if I sight in dead on at say 12 yards for elevation, the bullets 124 MG at 1050 fps seem to hit high for my taste at 25 yds. Not sure if the old STI Edge .40 I use to shoot had lower front & rear sights so I didn't seem to notice this as much or it's just me, but wonder if the front and rear accu sights are just higher that causes this, similar to shooting with a scoped AR, the close shots will shoot low when sighted in at 100 yds due to distance between center bore & scope LOS.

I also have the "Fisher Sight Pusher Tool" and still unable to get my gun to shoot straight. The rear sight does not have a set screw, and using the sight push tool or just peening with a punch, I still have issues getting the gun to shoot straight. It's either a little left or a little right as if there's a hump and the rear sight either goes just left or right of center, so my grouping at 25 yds is always a little left or right of center, which does annoy me. It's picky, but that's me.

I did screw up my accu shadow barrel a few weeks ago by ordering a "finishing" reamer to cut the rifling properly on my orig barrel and this was not the right tool for "throating" the rifling to allow for longer hollowpoint loads like MG bullets. By the time I found out, I'd cut the chamber longer and this caused me to lose appx 50 fps on my match loads (985 fps vs 1040 fps on prev loaded & chrono'd loads w/3.8 TG powder, 1.090 oal, MG 124's) and also got some extra charring on my brass casings which told me I'd messed up the headspace I believe it's called. I've since told CZ Custom of my mistake and installed a new barrel and used a "throating reamer" from manson to cut the rifling on the new barrel so I can load MG bullets out to 1.140 no problem. Oh, the new barrel also would not plunk test a MG 124 HP at 1.110 oal. I will test the 50 yd grouping (maybe 100 yd) since the close range at my house only has 25 or 100 yd and post groups.

I also thought my CZ Accu Shadow orig had a "fitted" match grade barrel and was going to have to send the whole gun back to have CZ install/fit a custom barrel, but when I ordered the new replacement barrel was told I had a normal shadow barrel and it would just drop in, which it did. I was also dumb, thinking like a 1911 barrel that a proper loaded/sized bullet when dropped into a cz barrel, the rim should be flush with the rear most hood on a cz barrel which seems not the case with cz. The orig cz barrel plunk test has almost the whole rim sticking up past the hood of the cz barrel, unlike most 1911's the rim would likely be flush to rear most hood. The new barrel is the same way. The CZ hood of barrel is more recessed that a 1911 and the barrel hood goes into a recess are back under the cz slide vs flush visibly as viewed from top of 1911.

I'm not dogging the accu shadow, just telling my observations and helping to keep other from making my mistakes and helpful info to some.

Edited June 24, 2015 by AirForce2

[Vanniek71]

So I shot my first major matchs in 15 years in CO, Rocky Mtn 300 and a few weeks later the Mile High Showdown. I shot 3 local matches total the past 15 months (mainly just to get super classifier and couple other classifier stages) after a cold stop to shooting for 15 years leading up to these and practiced just stand and shoot and maybe 2 hrs total over the past year of dry firing, drawing from holster and getting used to the double action first shot, did some sight in and stand and shoot at the local range. This was my first bigger match in production class, minor which also didn't exist or was new back when I stopped shooting in 2000. I came in 10 out of 28 production and 4th of 8 B class in Rky Mtn 300 and slow safe and out of 350 rds (60 rd stages) had no penalties or no shoots or misses except for some steel. I shot the Mile high showdown and came in 4th of 11 B class production, 10th out of 40 production and 55th out of 140 (all classes combined). I had 4 bad stages out of 12 but I was able to shoot faster & normal, so I can't complain with as little practice

At MH Showdown you were actually 9th in Prod......I only know this cause I was 10th LOL ?

[AirForce2]

I did finally get a manson 9mm throat/rifling reamer and used it on the new accu shadow barrel since my MG HP's at 1.100 were still hitting the rifling on the new barrel. I used a t-handle and honing oil and never using a throating reamer it was kinda confusing since it's hard to initially get it to turn and not sure how much down pressure to use. It felt from the start like it wasn't going to turn or each serration on the cutter was stuck in between each land in the barrel (which it was). I just applied turn force just as the cutter tips engage inside the rifling and it finally got started and it doesn't take much turning w/light to medium down pressure to cut away 40 thousandths. I almost screwed up and cut to much.

One thing I sure wish USPSA would do it allow us to use the cz double/single action guns with the hammer in half cock or cocked single action w/safety on. I don't relish dropping the hammer all the way down to start and at the match one of the guys saw that I was starting with my accu shadow hammer in half cock (more like 1/4 cocked if you ask me) and I also engage the safety to start and he protested to the match director. I explained I wasn't trying to gain anything, just don't like letting the hammer fall onto the firing pin (which does touch the back of the primer w/ext firing pin I think) and I'm still drawing and flipping off the safety, but the rule states "external hammers must start in down position". I don't understand this rule and why it exists? Is it to keep 1911's out of production class? I'm sure there are several striker fire guns w/light triggers, but don't have to start in "double action" mode.

[himurax13]

Both IDPA and USPSA have the lame hammer all the way down rule. I guess they do it to allow the Grocks and other striker fired guns to have a chance ...

[Vanniek71]

If you run ESP in IDPA you can start cocked with the safety on...