bobonit Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 These came out sweet. They are still curing so I haven't tried them out yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 From what are they "curing" ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nugget Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 If you load different charge weights or projectiles for multiple calibers you're going to love those. Easy to dial in your loads and tool less too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmt Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 From what are they "curing" ?? The Loctite is curing on the outer threads that screw into the powder bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobonit Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 From what are they "curing" ?? The Loctite is curing on the outer threads that screw into the powder bar. Thanks pmt. Steve, the Micrometer kit comes with a tube of green loctite. You apply the loctite in 2 places. Where the threads go into the Powder Bar Insert (the piece inside the powder bar that moves) and where the Micrometer presses up against the end of the powder bar. It needs to sit for 24 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobonit Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 If you load different charge weights or projectiles for multiple calibers you're going to love those. Easy to dial in your loads and tool less too. Thats what I was hoping for. The small powder bar is for my pistol calibers and the large one will is for 223, but I do load different weights in 223. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 I only load one caliber and two different loads and still love mine. It stays put better than the Dillon bolt did. Had to re adjust every 500 rounds or so before but now it stays right where I set it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Thanks for the explanation !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDA Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Yep, I have them on three different powder bars, they are great, really make it easy to adjust and dial in your load with great accuracy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sr20ve Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 I JB Weld it to the bar and loctite the threads. I have had a issue with the micrometer coming loose from the bar. Keep and eye on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDA Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 I JB Weld it to the bar and loctite the threads. I have had a issue with the micrometer coming loose from the bar. Keep and eye on it. I have done the same. I considered drilling and tapping a set screw into the bar to hold the micrometer, that seems more elegant but not probably necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobonit Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 I JB Weld it to the bar and loctite the threads. I have had a issue with the micrometer coming loose from the bar. Keep and eye on it. I will, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughingdog Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Every time I saw that product, the first thing that came to mind was "why the hell do I need that?". This thread is making me reconsider that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkheard Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 I'd use red loctite instead of green... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 I'd use red loctite instead of green... Why? Isn't green stronger than red? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkheard Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Green is usually for seating bearings. Red is way hi temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 I don't know . there are no threads so I think that's why they use the green stuff. I think there are two kinds if green too right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobonit Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Green is usually for seating bearings. Red is way hi temp. How would the Hi Temp loctite help in a powder bar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nugget Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Agreed. If my powder hopper caught fire I don't think I'd be worried about the loctite on my micrometer. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deuc224 Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Can someone do a step by step of the installation? Min is sitting here screaming at me to install. Can the micrometer be coming loose due to not sanding or filing the hole and still have Teflon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 It should have come with detailed instructions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobonit Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 (edited) Can someone do a step by step of the installation? Min is sitting here screaming at me to install. Can the micrometer be coming loose due to not sanding or filing the hole and still have Teflon? This is quoted from the instructions: The Teflon coating must be completely removed from the hole in the end of the powder bar where the adjustment screw was removed. Use a round file or rolled up sandpaper to scrape away the Teflon coating, leaving a fresh bare metal surface for the LocTite to achieve a good bond. Clean the hole with rubbing alcohol to remove any residue. So reading that I would have to assume that if you did not sand off the teflon, the LocTite would not achieve a good bond and yes the micrometer could come loose. Edited May 11, 2014 by bobonit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deuc224 Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 The instructions were kinda confusing to me. Maybe im reading into it too much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A63111 Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 The instructions include cleaning the inside of the powder bar with a metric tap, helps to remove the Teflon and gives a little surface for the Loctite to bite.. Clean that with carb or brake cleaner. Green is the highest strength Loctite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobonit Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 The instructions include cleaning the inside of the powder bar with a metric tap, helps to remove the Teflon and gives a little surface for the Loctite to bite.. Clean that with carb or brake cleaner. Green is the highest strength Loctite. Using the 7mm tap is not mandatory, but is an option rather than using a round file or sandpaper. Quoted from included instructions: Step 4: Prepare the Powder Bar for Installation. ** The Teflon coating must be completely removed from the hole in the end of the powder bar where the adjustment screw was removed. Use a round file or rolled up sandpaper to scrape away the Teflon coating, leaving a fresh bare metal surface for the LocTite to achieve a good bond. Clean the hole with rubbing alcohol to remove any residue. Note: If you happen to have a 7mm thread tap, it does a quick job of cutting through the Teflon coating and exposing clean bare metal for the Loctite to achieve a solid bond. Only a 7mm tap is the correct size. Do not substitute any other size metric or SAE tap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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