bobonit

Overcrimping can also cause a high pressure situation. The round headspaces on the case mouth. If the crimp is too tight, the mouth of the case can actually go past the chamber and start into the barrel which will cause the high pressure situation.

Some rifles shoot better groups when the bullets are seated close to the lands, some don't. There is no danger in not using the cannelure, just use what shoots better in your rifle.

Using the 7mm tap is not mandatory, but is an option rather than using a round file or sandpaper. Quoted from included instructions:

The older bars have the dark color. The lighter colored bars have a newer teflon coating.

Can you repost the picture?

This is quoted from the instructions: So reading that I would have to assume that if you did not sand off the teflon, the LocTite would not achieve a good bond and yes the micrometer could come loose.

How would the Hi Temp loctite help in a powder bar?

I will, thanks.

Thats what I was hoping for. The small powder bar is for my pistol calibers and the large one will is for 223, but I do load different weights in 223.

Thanks pmt. Steve, the Micrometer kit comes with a tube of green loctite. You apply the loctite in 2 places. Where the threads go into the Powder Bar Insert (the piece inside the powder bar that moves) and where the Micrometer presses up against the end of the powder bar. It needs to sit for 24 hours.

These came out sweet. They are still curing so I haven't tried them out yet.

The powder baffle goes under the powder like aug1911 stated. What it does is keeps an open cavity under the powder so the weight of the powder has no influence on how the powder meters.

Take apart the powder measure and polish the funnel (bottom of the measure) with a dremel and some polish, I used Flitz. You can also get a powder baffle Here which keeps the powder drop consistent regardless of how full the measure is. There are some other tips, search for "Powder Measure" and you will find them.

Anything with rust, hit it with 0000 steel wool. If its not going to get grease or oil, hit it with some Nu Finish Car Polish or some paste wax to keep the rust from coming back. The main shaft gets 30w motor oil. All the linkage pins get bearing grease or do like I did and use Brian Enos' Slide Glide. If the press is going to stay in the garage, give all your dies a good coat of car wax as well to keep them from rusting. My 550 sat unused in a garage for about 15 years and the above steps have it working and looking like new. Thanks that is the information I was looking for. Mine doesn't look too bad, but I was hopeful that it could be refreshed and put back to work. I ordered a strong mount to put it on the counter it is going onto now. Also, anything that you can't get cleaned, don't be afraid to call up Dillon, there was a few pieces I couldn't save and they just sent me new ones under warranty.

Anything with rust, hit it with 0000 steel wool. If its not going to get grease or oil, hit it with some Nu Finish Car Polish or some paste wax to keep the rust from coming back. The main shaft gets 30w motor oil. All the linkage pins get bearing grease or do like I did and use Brian Enos' Slide Glide. If the press is going to stay in the garage, give all your dies a good coat of car wax as well to keep them from rusting. My 550 sat unused in a garage for about 15 years and the above steps have it working and looking like new.