galt11 Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I have a brand new Gen4 Glock 17, which the only "upgrade" I have done is change the connector to a Taran Tactical one. I am finding that especially when dry-firing, even when I am careful to let the slide "slam" shut, the slide hangs up right before lockup. I tired changing the connector back to the original and nothing changed. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sigsauerfan Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 check the recoil spring. it looks like the spring doesn't detend far enough , then doesn't pushes the slide into complete battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galt11 Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 Thanks for the suggestion. I checked and it looks fine. It is one of the dual captured springs, so there doesn't appear to be much that can be done to "fix" anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alma Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 What happens when you let the slide slam forward? If this is only an issue when easing the slide forward than it may not be an issue at all. That's one reason why using the slide stop is more reliable than pulling back on the slide; because some times shooters will pull it back but then also ease it forward removing momentum and causing the gun to not lock up properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galt11 Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 What happens when you let the slide slam forward? If this is only an issue when easing the slide forward than it may not be an issue at all. That's one reason why using the slide stop is more reliable than pulling back on the slide; because some times shooters will pull it back but then also ease it forward removing momentum and causing the gun to not lock up properly. The problem is when the slide slams forward. I am making sure not to ease it forward. I should have added this in the OP. It seems like it gets caught on something when you hold the trigger back, like to test the reset, and then when you release the trigger the slide eases forward on its own. Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alma Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Interesting. I may have to get out a Glock and take a look. Another dumb question is are you intimately familiar with taking the gun part and putting it back together? I think I had a similar problem once. Turns out I reinstalled the takedown lever backwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galt11 Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 Interesting. I may have to get out a Glock and take a look. Another dumb question is are you intimately familiar with taking the gun part and putting it back together? I think I had a similar problem once. Turns out I reinstalled the takedown lever backwards. I am pretty familiar, but I work with a Glock Advanced Armorer and even he is a bit stumped. I am doing my Armorers class this coming week and planned to bring up the question. Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 The simple thing seems to be that something did not go back together right. I would tear it down and put it back together a few times. I have never really seen the need for an "armorer" when working with my Glocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoganbillJ Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 +1 on what Sarge said. Was this an issue before you installed the new connector? Or has it been an issue since purchase? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galt11 Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 +1 on what Sarge said. Was this an issue before you installed the new connector? Or has it been an issue since purchase? I really couldn't say because even before I shot the gun I changed the connector. I knew what it felt like from a second 17 I own, so I knew that was the route I wanted to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alma Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 You should seriously look at the takedown lever. It will keep the gun just out of battery when reversed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoganbillJ Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Did you completely strip the frame when you changed connectors or just the trigger assembly? If you completely stripped it, listen to alma. Also do you have another 17 handy? If so swap slides and eliminate the slide being the issue. Then compare frames and see what is different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galt11 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Knock on wood but I think I may have figured it out with help from many of your suggestions. I noticed that even after one dry-fire, the recoil spring assembly drops down a little bit when I take the slide off the frame. Now I admit I am not sure if this is happening when i take the slide off, but I am guessing not. I wonder if it doesn't have enough pressure to hold itself in place. I plan on speaking to Glock tomorrow now that I have a bit of an idea. I will let everyone know what I find out. Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alma Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Knock on wood but I think I may have figured it out with help from many of your suggestions. I noticed that even after one dry-fire, the recoil spring assembly drops down a little bit when I take the slide off the frame. Now I admit I am not sure if this is happening when i take the slide off, but I am guessing not. I wonder if it doesn't have enough pressure to hold itself in place. I plan on speaking to Glock tomorrow now that I have a bit of an idea. I will let everyone know what I find out. Adam I think that's normal. Wish I could look at it directly. I like the idea of using a second gun to diagnose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBOT5000 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 This may sound silly but when I was new to glocks I thought the pin in the grip frame was only if you used the extended back straps. This allowed the rear trigger housing to raise up and give me battery/jamming issues as well. Check for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoganbillJ Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Any update on this? Just curious as to what Glock said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impact10 Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 My brand new Glock 19 Gen4 does the exact thing. None of my other Glocks do it. It runs fine when shooting but it you ease the slide forward it stops and does not go into battery unless the trigger is moved forward. I'm hoping that shooting it will solve it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom C Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 So let's make sure we understand this situation. This is a brand new firearm and before you fired even one round down range you took it apart and modified it thus you have no baseline performence to know what the firearm was doing before you "improved" it. This, in all cases with any new firearm, is a fundamental error. Yes Glocks are pretty darned easy firearms to work with/on and, because of this, they are easy to make mistakes with as well. Assuming you called Glock, how did they respond to this issue? It's always good to close the loop when a problem is discussed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom C Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Knock on wood but I think I may have figured it out with help from many of your suggestions. I noticed that even after one dry-fire, the recoil spring assembly drops down a little bit when I take the slide off the frame. Now I admit I am not sure if this is happening when i take the slide off, but I am guessing not. I wonder if it doesn't have enough pressure to hold itself in place. I plan on speaking to Glock tomorrow now that I have a bit of an idea. I will let everyone know what I find out. Adam I think that's normal. Wish I could look at it directly. I like the idea of using a second gun to diagnose. I checked this (recoil spring drops a little) on my Glock. I found my recoil springs drops a little as well. It's only had failures to go to battery when I milked the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thecelt Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 is your locking block seated correctly? are you certain that everything is installed properly? is the cruciform on the trigger bar seated properly in the trigger mechanism housing? since it started when you changed the connector, it sounds like its an assembly issue. you say its FTRTB (failing to return to battery) when allowing the slide to slam forward (not riding it slowly) I could only guess something wasnt put together properly. Glocks are pretty simple really. I recently changed out the connector on a new G19 I picked up and I noticed that if I rode the slide home slowly while doing dry fire practice the gun would FTRTB due to a longer arm on the connector that rides against the cam on the slide. This condition would be even worse if I had a round in the chamber and loaded magazine. with the gun completely empty and the factory connector installed I can still get it to FTRTB by holding it vertically and riding the slide home with the trigger depressed. releasing the trigger allows it to go the rest of the way home. this is normal for a glock as they are not designed to have the slide closed slowly like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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