Thecelt

Great price, and if you cared enough you can paint it any color you want.

thank you for the clarification ron.. I was previously informed otherwise, I will be sure to pass this correct information along to where I originally heard this information. I am fairly new to glocks but learning quickly.

good question jriggs. a g34 is next on my list for competition purposes as well. EDITTED regarding magazine comments... I was mistaken, thanks for the clarification... plus, the g3 seemed proven to me. i have a g4 21 and i love it, and it works flawlessly (knock wood). I also have a g3 19 that i really love too. so, if there was any reason to get a g4 over a 3 it would be good to hear. g4's come with an extra mag, but you basically pay for that mag in the price anyway.

is your locking block seated correctly? are you certain that everything is installed properly? is the cruciform on the trigger bar seated properly in the trigger mechanism housing? since it started when you changed the connector, it sounds like its an assembly issue. you say its FTRTB (failing to return to battery) when allowing the slide to slam forward (not riding it slowly) I could only guess something wasnt put together properly. Glocks are pretty simple really. I recently changed out the connector on a new G19 I picked up and I noticed that if I rode the slide home slowly while doing dry fire practice the gun would FTRTB due to a longer arm on the connector that rides against the cam on the slide. This condition would be even worse if I had a round in the chamber and loaded magazine. with the gun completely empty and the factory connector installed I can still get it to FTRTB by holding it vertically and riding the slide home with the trigger depressed. releasing the trigger allows it to go the rest of the way home. this is normal for a glock as they are not designed to have the slide closed slowly like this.

i like the oversized nordic release myself (see avatar).

i cant believe they sent the gun out with a knot in the spring like that... thats terrible QC!

make sure your gas piston and rings are cleaned properly as that will lead to light strikes too.

That's really good to hear l2s. Have you inspected the hammer or firing pin for damage (mushrooming) fue yo the stronger spring?

Either have remington get you a new barrel or send it to a tuner to bend yours. No reason to accept a barrel they doesn't shoot where your aiming if your not happy with it. I know I wouldn't accept it regardless if it did the job or not.

Good list, I had also compiled a list from endless searching on the net and came ip with all the same items. Most are easily remedied but I still sold my jm because the gas operated system was just not as "bullet proof" as the inertia system. And I wasn't satisfied with a decent platform, I needed the best (imo).

just a heads up gunsmiths are well worth money spent because they also change angles, tuning, tweaking that most regular people know nothing about. polishing is only a very small portion of what goes into building a highly tuned gun... but doing some polishing on your own is well worth the effort and rewarding.

cratex tips for a dremel work great. start with medium and then fine. like mentioned above you can hit anywhere you see wear marks. but otherwise it never hurts to polish the chamber as this helps with smoother function/extraction. the extractor groove and extractor plunger, the rails that the bolt carrier ride on, the bolt carrier, the shell stop or carrier latch (same thing but different manufacturers sometimes have different names). a dremel with medium grit cratex cant really hurt anything.

does anyone make their own? im going to take some spent rio royal shells that are clear and fill them up with something to mimic a live ride in weight, and spray the inside of the shell a flourescent color so it stands out as a dummy, then fill it with silicon or epoxy to keep it together.

not much on mine at this point... but i do love my stickers as i was a sponsored motorcycle road racer several years ago and i always ran my stickers.

Hmm. My gun runs great, I'll have to see if the piston rattles. Is this if you shake the shotgun? No its when u hold the actual piston in hand. The rings should be able to rattle which means they are good and clean.

i posted this in another thread. i think its well worth the effort to polish the chamber, shell stop, extractor and extractor plunger, the extractor groove on the barrel, the seam where the extension meets the factory mag tube, and the gas piston housing, all with a medium cratex wheel on a dremel. then hit the gas piston spring ends with a dremel so they dont scratch and drag on the mag tube. these few simple things will greatly improve the function of the 930 because that seems to be where mossberg cut corners to produce an affordable semi auto. throw in a 10/22 ep hammer spring and i think this will be as reliable as a this design will allow it to be. also this that i posted on another forum: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1583 ... be-Problem Feeding from the tube issues For light primer strikes install an extra power ruger 10/22 hammer spring in place of the stock hammer spring Lightly polish the piston housing with a medium grit cratex tip on a dremel for smoother piston movement Mag tube scratches - take a dremel to the main piston spring ends. Polish the chamber with medium grit cratex (as far as you can reach but at least as deep as the brass goes. Polish up the extractor groove with medium grit cratex and if your abitious polish up the ectractor and plunger with mefium cratex. If you are having issues with loading or feeding with an extension the bevel the edges where they meet.

from what i remember reading (sold my jm so i cant check it) they all have a little play. a little play in a component like that wont hurt anything. sometimes a little play increases reliability, just look at how sloppy an ak47 is.

Polish up the other parts I mentioned along with just breaking the sharp corners on the shell stop as per the tutorial on brownells. You could go further to polish the bolt carrier and rails in the receiver along with the recoil spring. Use 00 steel wool on the spring.

i think its well worth the effort to polish the chamber, shell stop, extractor and extractor plunger, the extractor groove on the barrel, the seam where the extension meets the factory mag tube, and the gas piston housing, all with a medium cratex wheel on a dremel. then hit the gas piston spring ends with a dremel so they dont scratch and drag on the mag tube. these few simple things will greatly improve the function of the 930 because that seems to be where mossberg cut corners to produce an affordable semi auto. throw in a 10/22 ep hammer spring and i think this will be as reliable as a this design will allow it to be.

I appreciate the info.thanks.

i typically shoot clays on private property from a typical thrower so its not organized. i used my mossy 500's for a while, now im using an m2. but i may join a local club so i can start shooting clays more often and i was looking at an o/u for this purpose. (good thread btw cause i was going to start one myself). what are the opinions of the Stoeger Condor? ive read some decent reviews on it.

lol... oh crap, you mean actually shooting it will wear it out, damn. i know, i know, its a bit of a ridiculous question considering what real 3 gun shotguns go through. but i dont currently shoot organized 3 gun, i have my own version of 3 gun on private property where i dont actually dump my guns (although i would like to do an organized shoot at some point). i try to take very good care of my tools and i want them to last as long as possible. and my main concern would be that a sticker could create premature corrosion. my guns are not "throw aways" and i expect that ill be passing my guns down to my kids someday. if i ever got to the point where i could afford a true "beater gun" then i wouldnt be concerned in the least, but i need my current set of tools to last me a long while.

She's obviously a keeper, good stuff man.

My guess is no, but I don't want to mar the finish on my prude and joy m2 with a benelli barrel sticker. So I figured I'd ask here for obvious reasons.

could it be catching on the carrier latch (shell stop) at all?