Bill Schwab Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 In Oct 2012 Dan Burwell did his $65 Standard trigger job on my 5” 40 M&P Pro, and he also modified the striker for increased pin protrusion in order to ignite any primer. I specifically wanted this trigger job because it kept stock springs; I wanted to ensure good primer ignition with any primer. As part of this trigger job Dan modified the striker such the gun will only operate with his modified striker. In the spring of 2013 the striker broke and I got a replacement from Dan. During the 2013 season I also adjusted the seating depth on my 1050 to ensure a hard seat. Late in the 2013 season I was able to run Remington primers with an SSS extra power striker spring (which I no longer see listed on SSS’s site, but I am told I can use Glock striker springs) and still get 100% ignition. It’s now 8,000 rounds later and the gun only ignites Federal primers; I am led to believe this poor ignition is getting worse. This year, so far, I have tried multiple brands of small pistol primers (Federal, Remington and Winchester), checked my primer seating depth, cleaned my striker channel (multiple times, multiple ways, with and without lube), replaced my striker spring (tried a Wolff stock weight and am back to a new SSS extra power), and even swapped out the plastic parts of the striker assembly. I am at a loss. Can someone guide me in the right direction on how to fix this? I wanted a duty style gun to compete with, not a picky gun. I’ve contacted Dan, but haven’t heard back yet. I typically practice twice a week so I really don’t want to send the gun back to Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
horseman Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 I jacked with light strikes for 2 years. Ordering a complete new striker assembly fixed my problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bthoefer Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 What weight recoil spring are you running? Too light a recoil spring can cause the striker to move the slide out of battery enough to cause light strikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Schwab Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 What weight recoil spring are you running? Too light a recoil spring can cause the striker to move the slide out of battery enough to cause light strikes. I'm using the factory weight recoil spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Lord Gomer Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Hi Bill, Kenny/Francisco got the site fixed to again show the extra power striker spring: http://www.speedshooterspecialties.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_90_116&products_id=1022 That alone has cured all of my light strike problems but the only mods I have in most of mine are Apex sears and USBs. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Schwab Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 Hi Bill, Kenny/Francisco got the site fixed to again show the extra power striker spring: http://www.speedshooterspecialties.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_90_116&products_id=1022 That alone has cured all of my light strike problems but the only mods I have in most of mine are Apex sears and USBs. Mike Thanks Mike, that's good to know. I had a spare new one of those in my stash of parts and installed it and still have issues, so while it was helpful I still feel it's a bandaid for a larger issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Take the striker out and look at the Striker Block leg to see if it is worn by hitting the striker block as it comes forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsthat Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Bill S, I feel your pain as my M&P 9 FS (FSS Kit w/ factory ammo) used to suffer from light strikes. I was able to fix it by using a glock 7lb striker spring. For me the 7# spring ignited any primer I tried out. SSS & Wolfe extra power striker spring was not strong enough, it worked most of the time using Federal. PM me if you want me to send you a free 6.5# Glock striker spring. Can you expain how Dan modified your striker? Pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 If you guys can't get solid primer strikes with the stock striker spring, much less extra power striker springs, it is NOT a spring issue. It is a timing issue between the Striker coming forward before the Striker Block is pushed up out of the way. As I stated before, take the striker out and look a the leg that engages the striker block. If the leading edge of that leg is damaged, beat up, or rolled over in any way you have a timing issue where the striker leg is hitting the striker block as the striker comes forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Schwab Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 If you guys can't get solid primer strikes with the stock striker spring, much less extra power striker springs, it is NOT a spring issue. It is a timing issue between the Striker coming forward before the Striker Block is pushed up out of the way. As I stated before, take the striker out and look a the leg that engages the striker block. If the leading edge of that leg is damaged, beat up, or rolled over in any way you have a timing issue where the striker leg is hitting the striker block as the striker comes forward. I'll take a look, thanks for the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Schwab Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 Take the striker out and look at the Striker Block leg to see if it is worn by hitting the striker block as it comes forward. The striker block leg does not appear to be worn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Take a picture of it and post it up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Another possible failure could be that the tip of the strikers firing pin is rubbing against the side of the firing pin hole in the breach face of the slide. You can easily check this by installing the striker, manually push down the striker block and push the striker forward so the tip of it passed through the breach face. There should be ZERO friction felt as you push the striker forward as the tip passes through the hole in the breach face. If there is friction, then you may have a bad striker channel sleeve or the striker tip its self is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Schwab Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 Another possible failure could be that the tip of the strikers firing pin is rubbing against the side of the firing pin hole in the breach face of the slide. You can easily check this by installing the striker, manually push down the striker block and push the striker forward so the tip of it passed through the breach face. There should be ZERO friction felt as you push the striker forward as the tip passes through the hole in the breach face. If there is friction, then you may have a bad striker channel sleeve or the striker tip its self is bad. I did this and it's smooth as butter...nice firing pin protusion too. Here's pics: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 The second picture shows the striker block leg but it is not detailed enough. Can you take a closer picture of that portion of the striker? From what I can see in the existing picture that striker block leg does look worn on the leading edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Schwab Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 The second picture shows the striker block leg but it is not detailed enough. Can you take a closer picture of that portion of the striker? From what I can see in the existing picture that striker block leg does look worn on the leading edge. How's this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 You can see the wear on the tip of the striker block leg. It is doing exactly like I described. You need to change the timing of when the striker block gets pushed up by changing the angle of the sear loop on the trigger bar. You can also cut the height of the striker block leg so the striker block clears the leg with less upward travel. If you don't understand how to fix the timing issue then take it to a gunsmith who does. You don't want to screw it up and disable the striker block safety by accident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Schwab Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 You can see the wear on the tip of the striker block leg. It is doing exactly like I described. You need to change the timing of when the striker block gets pushed up by changing the angle of the sear loop on the trigger bar. You can also cut the height of the striker block leg so the striker block clears the leg with less upward travel. If you don't understand how to fix the timing issue then take it to a gunsmith who does. You don't want to screw it up and disable the striker block safety by accident. I really appreciate the advice. I know how to work on 1911's, but not striker guns, so I feel outside of my comfort zone. Can anyone recommend a place that will turn this work around quickly? And could I just send the striker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsthat Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 You can see the wear on the tip of the striker block leg. It is doing exactly like I described. You need to change the timing of when the striker block gets pushed up by changing the angle of the sear loop on the trigger bar. You can also cut the height of the striker block leg so the striker block clears the leg with less upward travel. If you don't understand how to fix the timing issue then take it to a gunsmith who does. You don't want to screw it up and disable the striker block safety by accident. I really appreciate the advice. I know how to work on 1911's, but not striker guns, so I feel outside of my comfort zone. Can anyone recommend a place that will turn this work around quickly? And could I just send the striker? try taking the striker block plunger out completely and see if you are still getting light strikes......if it works fine without stiker block plunger then you have another method of confirmed what cha lee is saying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Schwab Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 You can see the wear on the tip of the striker block leg. It is doing exactly like I described. You need to change the timing of when the striker block gets pushed up by changing the angle of the sear loop on the trigger bar. You can also cut the height of the striker block leg so the striker block clears the leg with less upward travel. If you don't understand how to fix the timing issue then take it to a gunsmith who does. You don't want to screw it up and disable the striker block safety by accident. I really appreciate the advice. I know how to work on 1911's, but not striker guns, so I feel outside of my comfort zone. Can anyone recommend a place that will turn this work around quickly? And could I just send the striker? try taking the striker block plunger out completely and see if you are still getting light strikes......if it works fine without stiker block plunger then you have another method of confirmed what cha lee is saying. My rear sight is SUPER tight in place, so I'd prefer to just send the slide to a 'smith for the issue to be troubleshot and adjusted. Can anyone recommend a 'smith? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 It would be hard for a smith to "Fix" this issue properly without the whole gun. With half of the trigger group in the frame and the other half in the slide you need both halves to tune the timing properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
open67 Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 Randy at Apex also had told me to check the shell plate holder on my Dillon 650. He had to tighten his down as it was a little to lose and would seat the primers somewhat at an angle. Another place to look anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Schwab Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 (edited) Thanks everyone, I will check the shellplate, install a 7# striker spring to buy some time, and hang tight until I have a backordered striker in hand. I'm waiting on the backordered striker because I fear sending the gun somewhere and them either A) modifying my existing striker and making the situation worse and then I'm really screwed or them saying they need a striker and they're out of stock. Edited February 25, 2014 by Bill Schwab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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