rtp Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Any concerns with durability vs barrel heat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 It's the same process used to apply factory camo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 (edited) So my second project started slow. The first project was done from an integrated kit, but for my second project I couldn't find the film I wanted in the same kit. I ordered the film separate from a different company (TWN). TWN has their own activator, which is formulated to work best with their film. I am told that most activators will work just fine with most films, but I decided to keep it in the family for simplicity. Films from company to company are a little different. Some seem to feel thicker and react noticeably different when on the water, when activated and in how they flow around different shapes. Also, I am a hobbyist, so I don't have the professional sprayer and dip tank. I am working with aerosol cans, which do not apply fluids as nicely as a high quality sprayer. I've already learned that a good outcome is in the details so there is a lot of trial and error in the learning curve. Fortunately a part can be easily resprayed. The first part I have been working with is the carbon fiber shroud on my Carbon Arms one piece magazine tube. It is a simple shape which readily receives paint. It looked pretty good after I dipped it, but then the ink washed off in rinse. I learned that the TWN activator I got with my new film is more potent and I used too much. The first film I had was pretty thin. If the border tape was cut, it would thin, dissolve and loose tension over the water quickly. This new film seems to need a little room for expansion and holds it's pattern well with the boarder cut. I am also learning how to work with the base coat. The base coat is paint which is applied before dipping to provide the background color. TWN seems to have high quality products, but they also get paid to teach. Thus they have not been as generous with advice as I would like. The best base coat seems to be a bit of a mystery. I've been told I can use Baer paint from Home Depot to rustoleum to an automotive "base coat" to any solvent based automotive paint. I chose a can of white Duplicote acrylic enamel for my base for it's ability to hold up to gun cleaning solvents. Some bases dry quickly or slowly with hard and soft surfaces. So there is also a learning curve to working with one type of base (paint) vs another. There are of course some companies which make and sell base paints specially formulated for hydrographics. TWN has their own of course, but the guy on the phone recommended that I just grab a can of automotive spray paint for limited "hobbyist" use. If you are the type who wants the results to be factory clean and don't have the patience to work your way through the process, you might want to consider having the work professionally done. If you have the patience and an artistic streak like me, then it can be a fun project. My daughter already wants to dip her electric guitar. I should have some pics to post of my progress after the weekend. Edited January 31, 2014 by co-exprs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtp Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 In for updates, as the pattern I'd like to use actually i only available via TWN.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 update. Been dipping pieces of PVC pipe. I'm not sure what it was about the combination of components I was using, but it just wasn't working. I made two changes. I switched to a different base paint and I changed activators. I kept trying to use the TWN activator, but I couldn't find the sweet spot. I reduced the amount of activator with each test run, to the point where the film wouldn't glass out and the ink would still run off the part. Not sure if it was gloss nature and surface hardness of the automotive paint I was using or if the TWN activator didn't agree with the aerosol applicator I purchased. Maybe it wasn't getting sprayed into a fine enough mist or something. Anyway, I still have half a can of the activator from my first project, so I tried that and it worked much better. Two passes and the film glassed out nice and the ink stuck to the part as it should. The pattern I am using is very distinct with clean lines and shapes. I will need to role parts to minimize distortion and stretching. I'll get in some rolling practice tomorrow and then hopefully get a few gun parts dipped. I'll keep you posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67camaro Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Any concerns with durability vs barrel heat? I dipped my Saiga 12 and I don't have any issue but I doubt my barrel gets as hot as a rifle barrel. But I have done plenty of 20mag dumps with no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colodrew Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Thanks Mike, I have been wanting to do this and hate sending my guns off to others that I don't know or trust to work on them. Good write up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67camaro Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 I sprayed the TWN activator from a HVLP gun and haven't had any problems. I have heard of others having problems with activators due to improper water temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67camaro Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Also didn't see your previous post about the paint, I used automotive paint with mine but then again not everyone has access to that and it can be spendy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 I'm sure there is something simple I was doing wrong. My guess is that the aerosol sprayer I was using was not getting the activator on evenly. So there were thick and thin spots. The other activator I had was in a traditional rattle can. I got several parts done today with good results. A few touch ups and i'll get the clear coat down and some picks loaded. The stars and stripes look great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 I promised an update so.... If you're looking, you can see little blemishes and touch ups. Those are places where little bubbles form between the ink and the part, as you are dipping. That will get better with experience, but all in all, I think it turned out pretty sweet. I rolled all of these parts as I wanted to have as little distortion as possible in the shapes of the stars. In camo patterns a little stretching isn't noticed, but in a common shape like a star, a little stretch really stands out. Rolling the part reduces stretch, but takes a bit of practice to get right. Also, a little primer got under the tape where I masked the rubber inlay. I'll get that cleaned up tonight. I'm still learning so I reserve the right to not have perfect results. I'll role the stock tonight and then do the barrel last. The barrel is the toughest part as the vented rib adds complexity. The ink must flow into and out of the slots under the rib without loosing surface tension. Once the surface tension is lost, water gets in between the part and the ink, causing blank spots on the part. My first barrel I tried to role with poor results as the long edge of the rib cut the ink surface tension. I dipped it straight through the second time with good results, but with some stretching of the camo pattern. I will need to role this barrel to keep the shape of the stars intact, so we'll see how it goes. I'm having fun though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67camaro Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Looks good! I chose not to roll my barrel and just start from the top of it. It then in turn will meet at the bottom and smear a bit but no one really looks at the bottom or at least I'd like to think so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thermobollocks Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Yessss. This is officially the best shotgun. I don't care what the FN guys and their anodized blue aluminum say, or the Firebirds with the go-fast red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinj308 Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 This is one of the coolest threads since StraightupOG's mill. And that cost me $2k. Awesome job dude, just awesome. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtp Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Any pics of the gun all back together now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 Maybe later today. Gonna dip the barrel when I get back from sportclips. The stock took some time. If anyone else has a project they did, feel free to post some picks and project details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bearcave Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Can you remove mistakes when fresh out of water with what and try again? Can't wait to see the finished shotgun. Now I got to spend all afternoon reading about hydrograpics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 If you don't like the results, you can paint over fhe mess and dip it again. Which is what I will be doing with my barrel. It didn't turn out this time. I'm patient though. I'll get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 So who remembers this post? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishop414 Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Patience is a virtue. Nice work. Look forward to seeing it in action at Raton. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thermobollocks Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Just in time for worlds! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWil Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Looks great thanks for updating us! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 That is awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 When I was a lot younger, I played tournament paintball. Everyone had really colorful, custom anodized markers. No reason a dedicated gaming gun can't be all colorful and fun. Hydrographics offers hundreds of paint jobs for your favorite gat. Be creative and bold and have some fun. If you are not interested in a do it yourself kit, then pay to have it done. Most places charge between $200 and $250 for a complete shotgun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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