Need some beginners help

[Jgodwin]

I bought a used lone wolf barrel and carver three port comp. Getting ready to put it in my G17 and since I don't have any install instruction and zero experience with these I wanted to sure up the install procedure. Very little info on a google search except one thread that talked about threading the comp on with some loctite. Is it this all that is necessary? Thanks for any help.

[EkuJustice]

Some use Teflon tape. Most use red loctite. The comp stays on the barrel and is cleaned still in the slide. Most only brake it off if it needs to be replaced

[Jgodwin]

Ok thanks for the info just wasn't sure so some tephlon tape or red loctite and just screw it down until it is as close as it will go and indexed properly thanks

[Parallax3D]

Some use Teflon tape. Most use red loctite. The comp stays on the barrel and is cleaned still in the slide. Most only brake it off if it needs to be replaced

Most use Loctite because IT WORKS! Teflon tape does not provide a strong enough seal to make sure that the comp will not rotate ,('clock.")

I would use red Loctite, (Loctite 271.) Make sure both sets of threads are SUPER CLEAN, (very important, use brake cleaner), and use a generous bead of loctite from the front to the back of the treads on the barrel. When you screw on the comp, the loctite will spread to the rest of the threads. Let dry overnight. If you want to remove it, you WILL need to heat the threads with a propane torch to loosen the loctite.

[Mark R]

I had same question after I used Red Loctite and stripped out the screw head trying to remove the comp for cleaning. Here is what I got from Billy Lester at Jager Products...

"Loctite Red is a high heat product, so that the comp does not come loose during firing. You can remove it by applying heat from a propane torch. Apply a small flame from the torch to the BARREL ONLY below the comp, rotate it around for a SHORT time. You’ll see small puffs of smoke signifying that the Loctite has been crystallized, and the comp and set screw can now be unscrewed. You can’t unscrew the comp or set screw unless you crystallize the Loctite. Go slow and be careful, and do not heat the comp with the flame. I’ll ship you a screw in the mail. I don’t recommend re-tapping this. The set screw is only to hold the comp in position as the Loctite dries overnight."

Edited December 12, 2013 by Mark R

[fdc1999]

I use blue locktite, mostly because I do remove my comp when I use the same m&p9 for idpa. The blue holds up fine for about 2 matches (~400 rounds) then just starts to be loose. I am firing factory 9mm rounds, I know the comp is undergassed and perhaps this is why for me the blue works fine.

I have not tried the teflon tape, is that the standard plumbing teflon or something else?

[Whoops!]

Even regular red Loctite did not work for me when I used it for threaded barrel comps, the high heat red was the stuff I needed for any lasting seal. That being said, even that lost it's connection after a while. It depends on how hot you get the barrel, which depends not just on how much you're shooting, but also on the load you use.

I was once told that silver solder would be the only permanent cure besides welding. That being said, I was also told that silver soldering the aluminum comp to the steel barrel would effectively create a battery and galvanic corrosion along with it. Is this true? I don't know. It must be true to some small extent, but the duration for it to have any real effect would probably be extremely long.

[Jgodwin]

Guys I picked up a zev stainless steel guid rod and the gen 4 reducing ring to go with it. I have installed the guide rod and screwed the compensator down and the slide will not rack. It looks like the hole for the guide rod on the compensator does not go far enough down. Is it normal to have to "fit" these or am I doing something wrong?

[Stev7783]

Guys I picked up a zev stainless steel guid rod and the gen 4 reducing ring to go with it. I have installed the guide rod and screwed the compensator down and the slide will not rack. It looks like the hole for the guide rod on the compensator does not go far enough down. Is it normal to have to "fit" these or am I doing something wrong?

It should just be a drop in part. I'd start by giving zed a call.

Edited January 2, 2014 by Stev7783

[G17]

You need a Gen 4 Carver Comp. The channel is not big enough on the comp you have.

http://www.bb-enterprise.biz/item180443.ctlg

[Parallax3D]

I use blue locktite, mostly because I do remove my comp when I use the same m&p9 for idpa. The blue holds up fine for about 2 matches (~400 rounds) then just starts to be loose. I am firing factory 9mm rounds, I know the comp is undergassed and perhaps this is why for me the blue works fine.

I have not tried the teflon tape, is that the standard plumbing teflon or something else?

I just bought a seperate slide/barrel assembly for my Glock, and swap them when I want to go from Open to Limited. Nowadays the Open top gets little if any use though, because I have an STI open gun. The Glock is primarily for Limited now.

Even regular red Loctite did not work for me when I used it for threaded barrel comps, the high heat red was the stuff I needed for any lasting seal. That being said, even that lost it's connection after a while. It depends on how hot you get the barrel, which depends not just on how much you're shooting, but also on the load you use.

I was once told that silver solder would be the only permanent cure besides welding. That being said, I was also told that silver soldering the aluminum comp to the steel barrel would effectively create a battery and galvanic corrosion along with it. Is this true? I don't know. It must be true to some small extent, but the duration for it to have any real effect would probably be extremely long.

Your threads may not have been clean enough. I had problems with the comp "clocking" last year when I shot Area 5. I removed and re-cleaned the threads and re-did it with red Loctite (271), and it's been fine ever since. I shoot steel twice a month, (150+ rnds), and shot the IL sectional in 1 day since I was an RO, (10 stages, 270+ rounds), and the comp never budged.

[Iceman2733]

Like a lot of people said you don't want to have to worry about the comp coming loose on you check out Loctite 272 it is made for high temp applications. It seems to be what most prefer and recommend, only downside stuff is stupidly expensive.

[EkuJustice]

Use red on mine and degrease it properly and never had an issue on anything I have used red on

[Parallax3D]

Use red on mine and degrease it properly and never had an issue on anything I have used red on

Degreasing is the key. It has to be spotless. (There's nothing like having to stick a screwdriver through the side ports of your comp and rotate it back to center after every stage at Area 5 two years ago to teach you about the improtance of getting the threads clean.)

[CLC]

How long do you guys go before taking the comp off and re-applying the loctite?

Does it last for years if done properly the first time?

[hysupra]

No one has said it yet but it's very important to make sure the comp doesn't touch the slide. It could prevent to gun from going into full battery, also not good for the barrel threads if the comp is slapping the slide.

[Stev7783]

No one has said it yet but it's very important to make sure the comp doesn't touch the slide. It could prevent to gun from going into full battery, also not good for the barrel threads if the comp is slapping the slide.

Good point!

[SV650Squid]

Has anyone tried Rocksett? Suppressor companies use it for muzzle devices because it can handle ~2000 deg F, but it's still about the same strength as blue locktite.

I think it might be a better threadlocker in a situation like this.