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Dillon 650 Thrust Bearing.


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You don't have to buy anything if you have some essential Man tools. I fixed the factory setup with a section of 1/2" box tube and a sliver of 1/16" steel.

primercup.jpg

pricup.jpg

I like that a lot! My understanding is that when you deprime primer forced down and it just bounces off and out. With this setup that you show primer most likely deflected into front part of container. Plus, it is probably bounced already inside this square tube and lost "bouncing energy"

Does this solve problem for you 100%? I was thinking about something like this.

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Run the bearing without the bottom washer. The ejector wire needs only a very small tweak to fit tight and I have run thousands of 9mm's through it with NO ejection issues.

I do the same, only using the top washer and the shellplate really doesn't need it. No issues with the ejector wire which only needs a minor tweak.

I'm confused by your wording. Do you mean that you run the top washer and the bearing, or just the top washer? It's early, forgive me if this is obvious and I'm just not fully awake yet.

Thanks,

Chris

bearing with washer on top.

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I don't know. I use the machines bone stock. I just follow Dillion's instructions (except my RT1200 difficulties, but I will get that down).

Okay, for 8 bux I ordered the McMaster Carr set up and after using it for awhile, I decided to yank it. I think if you place the correct amount of grease, tighten the bolt correctly so the shell plate is stable but rotates well enough AND tighten the ram set screw, the machine does fine. I lived without this bearing set up for many years, loaded thousand of rounds and never had problems. I trust that as soon as Dillon has enough valid changes they need to make, they will up rev the current model. Wishful thinking?

Dog

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I don't know. I use the machines bone stock. I just follow Dillion's instructions (except my RT1200 difficulties, but I will get that down).

Okay, for 8 bux I ordered the McMaster Carr set up and after using it for awhile, I decided to yank it. I think if you place the correct amount of grease, tighten the bolt correctly so the shell plate is stable but rotates well enough AND tighten the ram set screw, the machine does fine. I lived without this bearing set up for many years, loaded thousand of rounds and never had problems. I trust that as soon as Dillon has enough valid changes they need to make, they will up rev the current model. Wishful thinking?

Dog

Are you loading anything that is near full of powder? And you are not spilling anything? I can load minor 9 OK but 9MAJOR is pretty much a no go without the bearing or some other snap mod. Cases are about 3/4-7/8 full.

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I don't know. I use the machines bone stock. I just follow Dillion's instructions (except my RT1200 difficulties, but I will get that down).

Okay, for 8 bux I ordered the McMaster Carr set up and after using it for awhile, I decided to yank it. I think if you place the correct amount of grease, tighten the bolt correctly so the shell plate is stable but rotates well enough AND tighten the ram set screw, the machine does fine. I lived without this bearing set up for many years, loaded thousand of rounds and never had problems. I trust that as soon as Dillon has enough valid changes they need to make, they will up rev the current model. Wishful thinking?

Dog

Are you loading anything that is near full of powder? And you are not spilling anything? I can load minor 9 OK but 9MAJOR is pretty much a no go without the bearing or some other snap mod. Cases are about 3/4-7/8 full.

Sarge, I have loaded lots of 9mm and I admit I've thrown some powder, but it was very rarely. I played with the shellplate, bolt and grease a few times and when the planet, moon and the stars aligned, it seemed okay. I think a lot if may be that the operator smoothness helps too. Next time I swap out my .223 toolhead, I'll go for some 380 or 9 and see how I do. Will report results. If it's bad, I'll cop to it and throw the bearing back on and see if it helps. I just want to believe we can do without all these added doo-dads and the machines will work according to the book...

Dog

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I've got a 650 as well and have tried all the fixes. So far it has made it better, but far from perfect.

I've got the thrust bearing and it made it better, but if I tightened it down, press almost would not operate. So I backed it off, now back to square one.

Trimmed the detent spring, made a big difference, but still not acceptable.

As far as upgrades, here is what I've done so far:

  • Thrust bearing
  • Spent primer chute (dumps into "baby" food type jar on strong arm mount)

I just ordered the detent spring with phenalic ball as well as the roller cam follower. I am hoping this makes a difference.

As far as tightening down the shell plate, how tight are you tightening it when using the thrust bearing? I've heard some say until it is hard to turn the plate by hand.

Thanks

i have actually done all these mods that they worked out great. i have no spilage, even when im cranking through some rounds. Im also running the GSI Bullet Feeder. I did a 15min test and loaded 298 rounds in 15min and that was at normal loading speed.

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I'm gonna update the press today with the rest of the mods. Hoping this will take care of a lot of the problems. Thanks for your feedback.

I've got a 650 as well and have tried all the fixes. So far it has made it better, but far from perfect.

I've got the thrust bearing and it made it better, but if I tightened it down, press almost would not operate. So I backed it off, now back to square one.

Trimmed the detent spring, made a big difference, but still not acceptable.

As far as upgrades, here is what I've done so far:

  • Thrust bearing
  • Spent primer chute (dumps into "baby" food type jar on strong arm mount)

I just ordered the detent spring with phenalic ball as well as the roller cam follower. I am hoping this makes a difference.

As far as tightening down the shell plate, how tight are you tightening it when using the thrust bearing? I've heard some say until it is hard to turn the plate by hand.

Thanks

i have actually done all these mods that they worked out great. i have no spilage, even when im cranking through some rounds. Im also running the GSI Bullet Feeder. I did a 15min test and loaded 298 rounds in 15min and that was at normal loading speed.

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I'm gonna update the press today with the rest of the mods. Hoping this will take care of a lot of the problems. Thanks for your feedback.

I've got a 650 as well and have tried all the fixes. So far it has made it better, but far from perfect.

I've got the thrust bearing and it made it better, but if I tightened it down, press almost would not operate. So I backed it off, now back to square one.

Trimmed the detent spring, made a big difference, but still not acceptable.

As far as upgrades, here is what I've done so far:

  • Thrust bearing
  • Spent primer chute (dumps into "baby" food type jar on strong arm mount)

I just ordered the detent spring with phenalic ball as well as the roller cam follower. I am hoping this makes a difference.

As far as tightening down the shell plate, how tight are you tightening it when using the thrust bearing? I've heard some say until it is hard to turn the plate by hand.

Thanks

i have actually done all these mods that they worked out great. i have no spilage, even when im cranking through some rounds. Im also running the GSI Bullet Feeder. I did a 15min test and loaded 298 rounds in 15min and that was at normal loading speed.

some other things ive done but wont help with the spill is a light kit from Inline Fabrications. its pretty sweet. They roller cam follower made the press feel alot smoother. When i get home ill take some pics and post them

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  • 2 weeks later...

I bought the parts on McMaster Carr for the bearing and the detent ball. The ball I got is harder than steel and 1/10th the weight. VERY NOTICIBLE improvement in my opinion. My shell plate has zero wobble now, turns like butter and no snap in the detent. I didn't have to make any mods to the eject wire. I use it for 45 acp, 9mm and 38/357 with no ill effects.

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I like that a lot! My understanding is that when you deprime primer forced down and it just bounces off and out. With this setup that you show primer most likely deflected into front part of container. Plus, it is probably bounced already inside this square tube and lost "bouncing energy"

Does this solve problem for you 100%? I was thinking about something like this.

Yes, they don't bounce out of the bucket. Doesn't mean the bucket can't fill up and over flow but they stay contained otherwise.

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Sarge- yes, I got the ball from McMaster Carr also. Here are the part numbers for the bearing and ball upgrade.

5909K31 Needle Roller bearing (1 needed) $3.02

5909K44 Washer for above (2 needed) $1.00 each

9576K38 Silver-Nitride Ceramic Ball $5.63

This ball is expensive but it is used in the place of steel ball bearings in high speed applications. It's supposed to be harder than steel.

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Sarge- yes, I got the ball from McMaster Carr also. Here are the part numbers for the bearing and ball upgrade.

5909K31 Needle Roller bearing (1 needed) $3.02

5909K44 Washer for above (2 needed) $1.00 each

9576K38 Silver-Nitride Ceramic Ball $5.63

This ball is expensive but it is used in the place of steel ball bearings in high speed applications. It's supposed to be harder than steel.

I have a few of the bearing kits but did not know I could get a ball bearing there. I was thinking of trying the one on ebay but might get one from Macmaster.

THanks!

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Silver nitride ceramic balls? C'mon Dillon, you just got to help me to understand how we need a set of balls like these to get the shell plate running smoother.

Sarge, you can buy anything from McMaster Carr. I don't know if they still print their catalog, but the darn thing had to be 5" thick...

Dog

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I bought the parts on McMaster Carr for the bearing and the detent ball. The ball I got is harder than steel and 1/10th the weight. VERY NOTICIBLE improvement in my opinion. My shell plate has zero wobble now, turns like butter and no snap in the detent. I didn't have to make any mods to the eject wire. I use it for 45 acp, 9mm and 38/357 with no ill effects.

Which spring did you use with this ceramic ball? I bought the ball from McMaster Carr, thanks for the idea. It certainly has promise!

Chris

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  • 3 weeks later...

I bought the parts on McMaster Carr for the bearing and the detent ball. The ball I got is harder than steel and 1/10th the weight. VERY NOTICIBLE improvement in my opinion. My shell plate has zero wobble now, turns like butter and no snap in the detent. I didn't have to make any mods to the eject wire. I use it for 45 acp, 9mm and 38/357 with no ill effects.

Which spring did you use with this ceramic ball? I bought the ball from McMaster Carr, thanks for the idea. It certainly has promise!

Chris

I use the stock spring. I did end up cutting about a half coil off the bottom. Don't know if this is really needed but the ball is so light it doesn't need as much spring under it.

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Silver nitride ceramic balls? C'mon Dillon, you just got to help me to understand how we need a set of balls like these to get the shell plate running smoother.

Sarge, you can buy anything from McMaster Carr. I don't know if they still print their catalog, but the darn thing had to be 5" thick...

Dog

Reloaders tend to be tweakers. We are always striving for that elusive perfection. There is nothing wrong with the Dillon equipment. I used my 650 for 15 years before I started tweaking, and then just because I was bored. Of the tweaks and "upgrades" I've made, the only two that I think Dillon should adopt are the spent primer upgrade and the ski ramp fix. I'm sure they have a reason for not but they fix 2 issues that have irritated me from day one. The reason I went with the silver nitride ball is that it will wear like the steel ball but is light enough that it doesn't snap the shell plate. I like the end result. The whole bearing and ball mod is for those of us that like to crank the handle and not tip bullets or spill powder. If you load slower you don't have this problem. I like my tweaks. It makes my press "mine".

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Bought the kit from Mark on E Bay, Pleased. He includes a light weight spring along with the light weight ball. Shipping was free and quick. I also bought the roller cam follower. Most of the reduction is the ball and spring. The real test will be heavy bullets using Solo 1000. Solo is a light flake powder that doesn't meter well, tends to cover the shell plate. My 650 was set up for 40 S@W when I installed the parts and the cases aren't full but it didn't spill one flake during the loading process.

To me the bearing and spring were well worth the time and money. The cam follower is just ice cream on the cake and I like ice cream.

Next 650 project is to shorten the handle, the process is smooth enough to cut the stroke several inches.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Silver nitride ceramic balls? C'mon Dillon, you just got to help me to understand how we need a set of balls like these to get the shell plate running smoother.

Sarge, you can buy anything from McMaster Carr. I don't know if they still print their catalog, but the darn thing had to be 5" thick...

Dog

My dad always said if Mcmaster Carr doesn't have it, it's probably not made!

Mastiff, I'm with you on this one. The bearing kit even with one washer would still occasionally jam up my machine when the completed round was being ejected. I gave up on it. It works for a lot of people, and that's good. It just wasn't for me. Now I just make sure the underside of the bolt is lubed, the index ball spring is clipped and the timing of the machine is adjusted properly. Sure, a flake will end up out of the case every now and then, but nothing like when the machine stopped when a case got caught up in the ejector wire. Powder is pretty quick to jump out of a .380 case and smooth operation of the press handle rules the day!

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