JesseCJC Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 They say necessity is the mother of invention, I tend to agree. After practicing with the matchsaver, the extended button for a bolt release on the Mossberg 930 did a number on my first knuckle on my ring finger and I wanted something that was a bit easier to depress as well as provide a larger surface area in which to do so. Thanks to USP45ss on here I received his Arrendondo Benelli bolt release to monkey with for free to see if I could get it to work. I just bored the hole out a bit and I think it will be permanently attached after tapping the bolt release button and using a small rubber washer on the bottom as a stop. As it sits now I can release the bolt from anywhere on the pad and best of all its much more comfortable to practice with. It might not seem like much but now that I have time to practice and not worry about my sissy mitts( ) getting all mangled it makes me want to get out and shoot and practice loading and such much more now that I have a month off from school. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mertbl Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Cool, I've thought of doing this just never got around to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thecelt Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Looks good man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dukduk Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 I'm such a copycat I want to try that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outerlimits Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 not sure i'm following...where are you tapping the existing bolt release? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JesseCJC Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 (edited) It's not shown in the picture but what I will have is a screw that will be tapped in the face of the existing button to keep the arrendondo bolt release in place. This would be similar to how it attatches to a benelli, just a larger head on the screw to compensate for boring it out. In the picture it is only friction fitted to make sure it would work. Now it's just a matter of finding the right hardware to make it permanent Dukduk, I think you will find it to be a huge improvement, go for it! Edited June 12, 2013 by JesseCJC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outerlimits Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 It's not shown in the picture but what I will have is a screw that will be tapped in the face of the existing button to keep the arrendondo bolt release in place. This would be similar to how it attatches to a benelli, just a larger head on the screw to compensate for boring it out. In the picture it is only friction fitted to make sure it would work. Now it's just a matter of finding the right hardware to make it permanent Dukduk, I think you will find it to be a huge improvement, go for it! got it...but remember, that button is actually hollow...so you won't get many threads in it. BTDT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JesseCJC Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 I will take that into account, thank you for the heads up. As of now its not moving under friction fit and loading practice but that doesn't mean it won't fly off during live fire. I'll come up with something to rig it in more perminately for sure though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpom Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 How about filling the hollow button with JB Weld or Marine Tex for the screw threads to grab, or embed a small nut for the screw? Will consider this mod if it holds up. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dukduk Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 What if you put two countersunk holes on the top and bottom and come in with two screws of that Arredondo piece. Instead of through the face of the button, each screw was 180 degrees opposite each other Dang I dunno But i want something like this for my "junky, rough cut, unreliable, inaccurate" 930. Frick even just a bigger button Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LikesToShoot Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 After seeing this thread I went to Midway and now have some items coming. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/165346?cm_mmc=S_Spop-Email-_-Service_Emails-_-ShippingConf-_-ProductLink and http://www.midwayusa.com/product/352438?cm_mmc=S_Spop-Email-_-Service_Emails-_-ShippingConf-_-ProductLink Parts should be here Friday and a trip to ACE should yeild a screw that'll work. I'll post the results here when I put it all together. Thanks for the idea. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKW Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 The bolt release on my 930 was very hard. So hard in fact that I had to use a solid carbide bit to drill it and a very high quality tap to cut the threads. I used a 6-32 button head cap screw to attach the new extended bolt release because the hollow button houses a spring and 6-32 will fit inside that spring. I made the release extension out of micarta and even though it is huge, due to the hardness of the button I have little fear that the the leverage will cause the cap screw to pull out of the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JesseCJC Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 Looks good, thanks for the info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LikesToShoot Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 After seeing this thread I went to Midway and now have some items coming. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/165346?cm_mmc=S_Spop-Email-_-Service_Emails-_-ShippingConf-_-ProductLink and http://www.midwayusa.com/product/352438?cm_mmc=S_Spop-Email-_-Service_Emails-_-ShippingConf-_-ProductLink Parts should be here Friday and a trip to ACE should yeild a screw that'll work. I'll post the results here when I put it all together. Thanks for the idea. Steve Release bar and tap arrived today. After reading JKW's message about the screw size the drill and tap are being sent back. The bar came with a 4-40 screw so now a couple of #43 drill bits and a couple of 4-40 taps are on order. Plus a few other items to get to the min. $25 order or get tagged with a service charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpom Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 Is the back of the bolt release flat or recessed? Interested in doing this mod, just wondering if 4-40 machine screw is strong enough compared to 6-40 or 6-32. JKW, where did you find that 6-32 button cap screw? Thanks, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lc2hl Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Did you drill thru the face or from the interior? I tried a carbide bit and all I could get thru was the checkering, but am hardly making a dent in the button with it chucked up in the drill press attempting to go thru the face. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKW Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 (edited) Is the back of the bolt release flat or recessed? Interested in doing this mod, just wondering if 4-40 machine screw is strong enough compared to 6-40 or 6-32. JKW, where did you find that 6-32 button cap screw? Thanks, Mark Mark, I had some 6-32 button head cap screws in various lengths on hand. I was at a local Home Depot yesterday and they had 6-32x1/2" stainless button head cap screws in stock though, so you might have some luck there. I think a 4-40 screw would be strong enough, but the thought of trying to drill and tap the Mossberg bolt button with such a thin drill bit and tap makes me shudder. That thing is HARD. I don't remember the composition of the tap I used, but several years ago I invested in several high quality taps for threading holes in the carbon fiber trigger prototypes I was making (carbon fiber is super hard on cutting tools because the fibers are so abrasive) and my last new one was used up tapping this one hole. A brand new hardware store quality tap will not work when threading the hole. Did you drill thru the face or from the interior? I tried a carbide bit and all I could get thru was the checkering, but am hardly making a dent in the button with it chucked up in the drill press attempting to go thru the face. I drilled through the face/checkering. I did not expect to have trouble when I started and used a TiN coated bit at first. All that did was barely dimple the spot I was drilling. I switched to the carbide bit and got through, but is was still work getting it done. I thought my carbide bit was maybe getting dull (see the comment on cutting tools and carbon fiber above) because it was as difficult as it was, but given the trouble you are having, maybe that button is even harder than I thought. Edited June 18, 2013 by JKW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outerlimits Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 When benny built my open 930 a few yrs back, he said he burned a few bits trying to drill that part Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LikesToShoot Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 JKW is spot on, this thing is HARD! I finally received more stuff from a local mid state gun supply source, (not happy with their new shipping process), the TiN coated barely scratches this. I used a dremmel with a stone to get a good center started but new bits don't even begin to cut through. Next stop is to a local HW store for 5/64" carbide bit(s). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LikesToShoot Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 I tried the 5/64" carbide and it barely scratched the surface, luckily I picked up a #7144 diamond point dremel bit. I worked the front and then the back side, wetting it with some friction defense lube, untill I had a small hole thru it. Then tried the carbide bit again with no luck so I worked the hole until the #43 bit would fit thru. While try to tap the hole it was obvious it was too small so I opened it up some more. During tapping of the hole I had to back off the tap about every 1/6 of a turn. Keeping the tap wet with thread tapping oil it seemed like I was making progress but then the tap broke. I was able to get the broken piece out and opened up the hole a little more before trying the second tap. This time all that happened was destroying the thread on the tap. Apparently the first one was a bit harder since even the broken piece had decent threads visable where the second one was just ruined. I tried using the provided screw from the bolt release but stopped when it was obvious I was just going to damage the threads. Project on a hold at this point. I put the gun back together and did some practice today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpom Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Damn that sucker is hard! Wonder if that is a sign the internal parts are also made to last! Could try annealing it; heat to dull red and allow to cool slowly. No expert here, but that might soften it a bit. Will probably ruin the blue/black finish. Not a problem if its covered up by large piece of plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LikesToShoot Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Damn that sucker is hard! Wonder if that is a sign the internal parts are also made to last! Could try annealing it; heat to dull red and allow to cool slowly. No expert here, but that might soften it a bit. Will probably ruin the blue/black finish. Not a problem if its covered up by large piece of plastic. Yea, I thought about that but plan to wait until after this upcoming SG match in Sparta before I heat things up. If I break anything I doubt I can get anything out of Mossberg in time to make things right. Thanks for the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outerlimits Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Might try drilling a few holes into the side of the arredondo, add set screws and tighten onto the bolt release. Maybe dimple the release a bit for the set screws... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LikesToShoot Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Might try drilling a few holes into the side of the arredondo, add set screws and tighten onto the bolt release. Maybe dimple the release a bit for the set screws... Another good idea, thanks for the input. If I opened it up like the OP has in his picture I would look into that course of action. That dremel I mentioned would be perfect for making dimples for set screws to seat. The Arrendondo seems to be made of nylon, I could be wrong, and I'd be a little concerned how the screws would hold up. I expect to abuse this piece quite a bit and it really isn't that thick or wide to begin with. Having a large piece of micarta might help. I'll probably just try to find a good tap and a 6-32 screw like JKW has done. His gun is a working unit and looks like the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dukduk Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Lol that's what my idea was a few posts above. I just couldn't explain it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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