cpa5oh Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 I've been struggling like hell with a Glock 24 I've been trying to setup to shoot Limited... The gun was failing to go all the way into battery 5 times out of 100 and I thought it was that my KKM barrel needed reamed because I'm shooting lead...I reamed it and the problem remains. And I think now, after looking at it a million times, I know what the problem is. With a magazine inserted, as I rack the slide the round pops up slightly in the front of the magazine, the raised part of the underside of the slide hits the edge of the top of the brass and either gouges it or puts a long scratch in it from the brass up near the bullet to the bottom of the brass. When it gouges the brass, the gun doesn't go into battery (because the brass has a gouge in it and it's no longer perfectly round.) When it just puts the big scratch the length of the brass, the gun goes into battery. I also have a Glock 34 and I racked the slide with a dummy round in it to see if the front of the round pops up - it actually looks like the 9mm round gets pushed down a little bit until the slide comes forward. Anybody have any idea what the problem with the .40's might be? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
titandriver Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Are you using mag extensions like Taylor Freelance/Dawson/etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockman1000 Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Was it like this from the get go? Used or new 24? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpa5oh Posted June 9, 2013 Author Share Posted June 9, 2013 I'm using Taran Tactical basepad/extensions...and I bought the kits that included mag springs. I've got two of these...and then I have 5 stock magazines (that I've shot out of a G35.) It seems to me that when I use the mags with the Taran basepads/springs that this problem happens less...and it seems to happen very often with one stock magazine in particular. The gun was purchased brand new. I never shot it in completely stock form... - I immediately put a KKM barrel, Fulcrum trigger, titanium plunger, sights, and the Taran basepads - First time I shot it was in practice and it was a mess - 1 out of 10 shots it wouldn't go completely into battery...when I looked at the bullet that didn't go into battery, it looked like it ran into the lip of the barrel where the chamber (that the brass sits in) meets the rest of the barrel (where the rifling starts) - So I loaded shorter - much shorter (1.105") and took it to shoot a steel match...5 times out of about 200 shots it didn't go all the way into battery - if I recall correctly, each one of those times I was able to get it into battery by smacking the back of the slide - So I talked to Dave Manson at Manson Reamers and he said the problem was probably that the beginning of the rifling was .400 and lead gets sized to .401...I bought a throater reamer and used it - seemed like all I did was take off about 1/4" of rifling - the reamer never went in far enough to get to the part of it that measured .401 (if I had got it in that far, I'd have taken off 1" of rifling, which didn't seem right) - Shot the gun today with rounds that were 1.125" and got the failure to go into battery very often with the factory stock mags, but maybe once or twice with the Taran basepad/spring mags...I noticed the same cut that looked like it was running into the lip of the barrel where the chamber meets the rifling - but this time I happened to flip the round over and saw the top edge of the brass was gouged - Came home and polished the feed ramp and all around the outer edge of the chamber...I chambered a bunch of rounds in the house and that's when I noticed the scrape running down all of my brass and a deeper scrape up near the top of the brass...and I chambered enough rounds that I ended up noticing that it was happening when pulling the slide back to chamber the round - it is the rail in the middle of the underside of the slide that's doing the scratching - I chambered some rounds in my 35 - getting the same long scratch - I polished the rail in the middle of the underside of the slide so it's alot smoother now...still getting the scraped brass at the top and down the brass, but it doesn't seem to be as bad and in about 30 rounds that I chambered I didn't get any gouging at the top of the brass - just a slight scrape (that I'm worried will turn into a gouge when a round chambers after firing a shot) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOST Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 How many lbs is your recoil spring? I dont go less than 14# . And I case guage every round with the barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splashdown Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Case gauge your rounds. Revert everything to stock and add only one aftermarket part at a time. I've never had trouble with .40 caliber Glocks. I have experience with G23, G24, G35 with factory, KKM, and Barsto barrels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splashdown Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Your rounds could be too short as well. What was your original overall length? The shorter the round, the longer the gap the bullet has to jump to get into the chamber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpa5oh Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 How many lbs is your recoil spring? I dont go less than 14# . And I case guage every round with the barrel. Though it'll do nothing to stop the gouging/scratching, an increase in recoil spring makes alot of sense. Right now I'm running a 13 lber and I do have a 15 lber - gonna go to the 15 and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpa5oh Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Case gauge your rounds. Revert everything to stock and add only one aftermarket part at a time. I've never had trouble with .40 caliber Glocks. I have experience with G23, G24, G35 with factory, KKM, and Barsto barrels. I do case gauge all of my match rounds. I just ordered a factory crimp die - I know that isn't the best thing to use when shooting lead but I want to try it and see if anything improves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpa5oh Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Your rounds could be too short as well. What was your original overall length? The shorter the round, the longer the gap the bullet has to jump to get into the chamber. OAL was 1.125" originally...I tried 1.115"...then I went to 1.105"...then after the throater reamer I went back to 1.125". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlmiller1 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I bought a 35 once with a KKM in it already. It had terrible feeding issues somewhat like you have described without the gouging. I tried lots of different things none of which worked until I took out my dremel in desperation & lowered the feed ramp slightly. Ok, so that offsets some of the added support of the kkm but otherwise everything worked great. The ramp that barrel had to start with was finished rough. Looked like somebody sanded it with 60 grit sandpaper crossways. After I lowered it a bit, I polished it to a high gloss. Took off the sharp edges on the chamber, too. Sort of chamferred it a tiny bit. Have shot thousands & thousands of Precision bullets through it with no problems at all. I lost a tiny bit of support, but I gained a huge amount of reliability. Figure it was worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biloxi23 Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 I had sort of the same issue you describe with a Glock 35 with the stock barrel. I was loading 180 grain wichester FMJ's at between 1.118 and 1.125. The nose of teh bullet kept deflecting up, and it seemed to me like the sharp angle on teh truncated cone bullet was contributing to the problem. A friend gave me some 185 Precision moly-coated bullets and I started loading them as long as the magazine would take, right at 1.140 ( I know that 1.135 is listed as max COAL). The Precision bullet is a round nosed flat point design that seems to feed better in both my Glocks. since I started loading the Precisions long from the start I am not sure whether it was the langth or the bullet profile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Does it run with the stock barrel in it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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