JDMarshall Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 The Jm reticle on the razor gen II 1x6 states it is based on a 200yd zero. Shooting factory 55gr FMJ .223 out of a 20" criterion barrel If one only has a 100yd range can you predict what 200yd zero for sighting purposes? If I'm reading istrelock correctly at 100yds I should be shooting -.94" or almost 1 inch high with the scope centered. Is my method of thinking correct or should I stick with 100yds zero. The purpose of shooting will be 3G with some shots running 500-600 and a lot of 100-300 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bearcave Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Get on Vortex's web site and use their ballistics calculator. Put your information in and you can data to help get setup the way you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinWolv Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 (edited) Your method is correct for the theoretical trajectory, which should get you close to start out, but you'll still want to get to a longer range to be able to tweak to where the bullet is actually hitting. What you describe is actually how I first set mine up at an indoor range at 100 yards, because I could not get out to an outdoor range for a while. Then, when I did get to the outdoor range, the range distances were 50, 100, 250, 500, out to 1000. No 200 yard line. Thus, I checked my hits at 250 yards and compared to what Strelok predicted. I tweaked the elevation on the scope to match the theoretical trajectory from Strelok at 250, but it was already very close. Also tweaked windage at that time. Then, using the Strelok truing feature, I checked where hits were falling on steel at 500 yards, applied those elevation tweaks in the program and it spits out a "tested" adjusted muzzle velocity to use instead of straight off the chrono in terms of how the round you are using is really performing. That "tested" muzzle velocity is then used in your round settings and the computed trajectory is supposed to better match how your round is really doing in the real world. Then, dropped back down to 250y and check that hits still occur at the elevation expected. After doing that, I shot that particular round out to 750 yards, and the elevation matched up to Strelok. So far, the zero has worked out, as well as the BDC on targets matching up with what Strelok shows. Edited April 25, 2013 by AustinWolv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMarshall Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share Posted April 25, 2013 Thanks for the feedback Austinwolv. Can you tell me a little more about this trying feature? I have istrelock for my iPad but do not see this feature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinWolv Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 It is only in the "+" version, i.e. the paid version. http://www.borisov.mobi/StrelokPlus/default.asp "Truing" feature (Trajectory calibration) This explains it better than I could: http://appliedballisticsllc.com/AB_app.htm#_Toc324842855 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMarshall Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share Posted April 25, 2013 Cool, I found it on my app. Just got back from the range and set it about .75" high at 100. That ought to get me a close 200 zero. We will see how we'll the Indian does at 400-500 this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdboytyler Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 The JM reticle sets you up to shoot 7.5" low at 300 yds. So set your ballistic program for a 300 yd zero with zero height = -7.5". This will then give you a certain bullet drop at 100 yd. This will correspond to around a 170 yard zero. NOT the recommended 200 zero. If you stick with the 200 yd zero, then the hashmarks for 300 yds+ won't match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outerlimits Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 The JM reticle sets you up to shoot 7.5" low at 300 yds. So set your ballistic program for a 300 yd zero with zero height = -7.5". This will then give you a certain bullet drop at 100 yd. This will correspond to around a 170 yard zero. NOT the recommended 200 zero. If you stick with the 200 yd zero, then the hashmarks for 300 yds+ won't match. actually, that is not correct. it all depends on the ballistics. i have 3 loads using different bullet weights that are spot on the reticle out to 400. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdboytyler Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 The JM reticle sets you up to shoot 7.5" low at 300 yds. So set your ballistic program for a 300 yd zero with zero height = -7.5". This will then give you a certain bullet drop at 100 yd. This will correspond to around a 170 yard zero. NOT the recommended 200 zero. If you stick with the 200 yd zero, then the hashmarks for 300 yds+ won't match. actually, that is not correct. it all depends on the ballistics. i have 3 loads using different bullet weights that are spot on the reticle out to 400. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdboytyler Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 The JM reticle sets you up to shoot 7.5" low at 300 yds. So set your ballistic program for a 300 yd zero with zero height = -7.5". This will then give you a certain bullet drop at 100 yd. This will correspond to around a 170 yard zero. NOT the recommended 200 zero. If you stick with the 200 yd zero, then the hashmarks for 300 yds+ won't match. actually, that is not correct. it all depends on the ballistics. i have 3 loads using different bullet weights that are spot on the reticle out to 400. Actually I am correct. Unless, you match JM's bullet weight and velocity, you'll need to adjust the zero in order to have the hashmarks be close for 300, 400, 500 and 600 yard point of impact. In the OP's case, 200 yard zero, 0.75" high at 100 yard, and using hashmark #2, he would be about 4" high at 400 yards. If he used a 170 yard zero, he could be about 2" high at 400 yards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinWolv Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 (edited) Unless, you match JM's bullet weight and velocity, you'll need to adjust the zero in order to have the hashmarks be close for 300, 400, 500 and 600 yard point of impact. Depends how close you want to be. I use 55gr and 69gr, neither of which match the JM1 reticle's calibration, with the scope zero'd with 69gr at 200y. (Depending on stage setup, 55gr out to 200 generally, 69gr for everything beyond) That has been close enough to hit targets out to 500y without problem on the clock. Without citing specific examples off Strelok right now, the hashes are generally no more than 25 yards off for the 69gr, depending on outside temperature. As it gets colder (such as 20+ degF colder from the zero weather), the hashes can be up to 50 yards off at the 500y hash mark if memory serves. In that case, you just hold top of plate instead of dead-on...... Edited April 28, 2013 by AustinWolv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outerlimits Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 Unless, you match JM's bullet weight and velocity, you'll need to adjust the zero in order to have the hashmarks be close for 300, 400, 500 and 600 yard point of impact.Depends how close you want to be. I use 55gr and 69gr, neither of which match the JM1 reticle's calibration, with the scope zero'd with 69gr at 200y. (Depending on stage setup, 55gr out to 200 generally, 69gr for everything beyond)That has been close enough to hit targets out to 500y without problem on the clock. Without citing specific examples off Strelok right now, the hashes are generally no more than 25 yards off for the 69gr, depending on outside temperature. As it gets colder (such as 20+ degF colder from the zero weather), the hashes can be up to 50 yards off at the 500y hash mark if memory serves. In that case, you just hold top of plate instead of dead-on...... +1. Never used 55FMJ to test the reticle calibration. My three loads are 50 vmax, 55NBT and 69 SMK. All are within .3 MOA out to 400. Close enuf for the work we do in 3 gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 All the information presented is good information. and is only as good as the shooters crono. Many loads and barrel combinations are spot on for the drops in the reticle. But my loads are not so I am using some thing closer to the 175 yard zero / 1/2" high at 200 yards. with my 69 gr load at 2,730 fps out of my 18 barrel. my 55 gr loads hit center at 200 y Still at 400 and 500 yards to get my best hit on a 10 plate I hold just above center on the plate. I am just under 1000 ft elevation and the air is most always thick. I believe the reticle was designed around a higher elevation and hotter bullet than I use. Again the reticle is good for makeing head shots at 400 yards -IF- I do my part When I shoot my 10 MGM at 500 yards I can see it move though the scope. JD if your shooting good enough to place the bullet 0.94" to point of aim at 100 yards , your not going to miss at 400 yards on a 1.5 min target more than once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMarshall Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 500 this weekends match wasn't too hard but 300-400 had me almost par out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinWolv Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 (edited) You using 55gr? For 300, depending on what target you were engaging, you can just hold top of target with the main crosshairs......again, depends on the target though..... I'd have to load a 55gr into Strelok to see details, but the 69gr I'm running is pretty close to the BDC hashes. Edited May 2, 2013 by AustinWolv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 500 this weekends match wasn't too hard but 300-400 had me almost par out. I have found that the 250 - 400 yard shots almost , just almost seam too easy to line up and my trigger control gets sloppy. That last match the 200 yard shots are what hurt my score but the over 200 helped my score. it was all how much I allowed my self reasonable trigger work. Rifle has gotten to be so much fun my handgun competency has dropped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Smith Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 FWIW a 50yd zero works quite well for some. A 50yd zero means that you should have a secondary zero on the path at around 250yd. Use a good ballistics program (like JBM) and check your ballistic curve. Find out what works best for you. And don't forget that you can test your hold offs and you can zero the scope using a hold off or a secondary target spot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outerlimits Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 ok, went to the range today to verify dope. here is proof that the reticle is on. my load is a 55 gr nosler ballistic tip loaded with AA2200 to 23.7 grains, oal is 2.247". velocity out of my 18" JP is 2,981. zero is at 200. the 300 and 400 are spot on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Ok ...Ok all thats fine..thats fine. Now, tell us how much more joy you got out shooting with the Razor over shooting you old scope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskapopo Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Zeroed mine the other day by zeroing the 300 yard mark to 300 yards. Its 3.5 inches high at 100 yards 5 inches high at 200 dead on at 300 and 400 yards. Have not been able to shoot to 500 yet. That is with my 77 grain load. Using the same zero my 55 grain ball load hits .5 inches low at 100 yards. So I just switch to the good stuff for past 100 yards. Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Me and my friends have zeroed 4 differnent rifles with the same scope on top. We would do a good zero with the razor HD Gen II with 55gr (one person uses 62gr bullets) at 50yds. Then we put a large shot n'see target out at 200yds to finalize the zero. Usually at 200 yds we would only have 1 click and maybe 2 clicks of adjustment left to do. So, basically even if we don't check zero at 200yd after the 50yds zero, the zero would be very close. We usually shoot as far as 350yds, and I have taken it out to 500yds. The reticle seems to be working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob01 Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Like New, my 50 yard and 200 yard are exactly the same with my Razor 1-6x. If you only have 100 yards then zero at 50 and you will be about 2" high at 100 and back on at 200. The reticle works well. I have only shot to 400 yards with it but it's on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 I achieved the exact results as Rob01 with CPWSA 16 barrel. LOVE MY RAZOR HD!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Hunter Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 What Rob said - Although I went with the Mil reticle to keep from adding confusion with everything else I run. A 50 yard zero seems to work best for me as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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