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Remington 1100?


RickeyT
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My dad has an old Remington 1100 that I had plans to buy a Nordic tube for and use in three gun. However today I realized it doesn't have threads to instal different chokes.... I've seen/ heard allot of people use different chokes for different stages. So question do I need the ability to install and change out chokes? Or no big deal? Also if I install a choke can I still shoot slugs? Don't see that working out to well... The barrel is 30 in so I could have it cut and threaded but how much would that cost?

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You could have Briley cut the barrel and install their thin wall chokes...but frankly you are better off getting an aftermarket barrel for your 1100 in the length you want with the choke tubes already installed. That would be cheaper than cutting your barrel and adding choke tubes plus the rem chokes are more robust than the briely thin wall chokes. Should be able to get a suitable aftermarket barrel for 225 or so with a couple of chokes. You could go to the briley site to check the current price of choke tube installation and the tubes.

If you had a 26" fixed choke skeet barrel or even a 28" modified, I'd say just run for a season that but 30" is a little long and it probably is a full choke, too, which might be kind of frustrating. You could run that barrel for a few matches to get some experience and talk to other shooters to see what they recommend for your club matches. Personally, I am not a big choke changer and think that modified or light modified works well in most situations. Also, I installed briley thin walls on my Remington barrel and shot a slug stage with the mod choke installed...and it has been stuck there ever since which has limited my choke changing options. It is best to use a more open choke tube for slugs. :rolleyes:

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those were my original thought but i didnt want to throw 400 at that gun when I can find a jm930 for 600-750.... But if the chokes arent a big deal its really a no brainer 130 bucks and go play till I decide exactly what I want/need. WHO am I kidding WANT! ;> Ill have to see how much a new barrel would cost maybe itll be cheaper then I think. Thanks for the help.

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I simply sawed off my 11-87 barrel with a hacksaw and ran it with NO choke for 10 years before getting a Versa Max in 2011. Whenever I encountered heavy steel, I just went with hotter high-brass loads. The value of interchangeable choke in 3-Gun is often overstated. Just bring the gun out and get some matches under your belt before spending more significant money.

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I simply sawed off my 11-87 barrel with a hacksaw and ran it with NO choke for 10 years before getting a Versa Max in 2011. Whenever I encountered heavy steel, I just went with hotter high-brass loads. The value of interchangeable choke in 3-Gun is often overstated. Just bring the gun out and get some matches under your belt before spending more significant money.

That can certainly work as you know but I would rather shoot one load and choke as needed. That way the recoil impulse stays the same , you don't have to remember which caddie you put your super shells in etc. Plus a normal load with a tight choke in my experience generally brings steel down with more authority than a pheasant load in a cylinder bore. But to each his own.

Pat

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Before Semi-autos were banned here, i had an 11-87 with a 30"barrel, fixed full choke. never had a problem with the choking. Like Alaskapopo said, the tight choke brings them down with gusto. It was also excellent with the slug stages that sometimes were in the shoot. Never changed a thing, just ran 2 3/4'' shells (mostly homeload 1 1/8oz), then used speedloader to insert slugs when needed, and kept drilling the plates. Tube held 13, + 1 inside. Those were the days.

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dont know that I would ever take a hacksaw to the barrel but I may just run it and see what happen. I know I wont learn if I dont play so seams like the quickest way to get out there and start shooting.

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dont know that I would ever take a hacksaw to the barrel but I may just run it and see what happen. I know I wont learn if I dont play so seams like the quickest way to get out there and start shooting.

Good call - have fun, and welcome to the sport :)

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I ran an 870 with cylander bore for a few matches and soon saw the benefit of having chokes to adjust the pattern accordingly. Modified is probably the 90% of the choke but every now and then I run a cylander for close clays to just spray or further than normal steel I'll run improved mod or full to really blast em down. But I'll go with the crowd here it's better to try then buy later with some experience otherwise you'll be spending money twice or in my case three times (870, 1100, versamax)

Also, use other shooters gear to get a feel for what's out there as far as options, add-ons and feel, most shooters are more than happy to let you run their gear to see if you like it. Just ask alaska popo he's the gear slut givin it up to everybody that shows interest. Haha

Edited by Akkid17
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There are a ton of used 1100 barrels on the market. I had a fixed IC slug barrel I used to hunt with sitting around. With the 1250 FPS Super Handicap loads, it easily handles all the steel I've encountered. You can find them for less than $100 bucks.

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Don't want to start a new post, I have a question similar to what RIckyT originally asked and has yet to get answered. HE has a 30" barrel, I have a 26" both have set chokes, I know on my barrel it says Skeet but nothing else to indicate what choke level it is set at, would it be safe to shoot slugs through either barrel. Mine is on a 870 pump, not sure if that makes a difference or not. But some of the others answers here helped me out some. RickyT thanks for asking your questions.

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I'm going off other people's information here, and hopefully someone can correct me if I'm off, but i believe the hierarchy of chokes is roughly:

Spreader, cylander, skeet 1, skeet 2, Improved cyl, light mod, mod, improved mod, full, extra full

(I may have the skeets out of position but they're roughly improved cylander)

My guess would be that you have a fixed choke of either skeet 1 or 2. Which would be fine for beginning 3-gun so you can get a feel for it. Make sure to ask lots of questions of the other shooters at your local club/range. Just about everyone is more than willing to help a shooter new to 3-gun I know my range buddies have helped me a lot over the last couple of years.

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Is it choked too much to shoot a slug through it? Or any choke a slug can make it down the barrel without it bulging? Never shot a slug before, so not sure how they are constructed as if they are the actual diameter of the shell of a bit smaller because they sit in a plastic wad until exiting the barrel and the plastic separates from the slug. I have seen several different slug options and am curious if there are slugs you don't want to shoot from a SG unless its a rifled slug barrel. Hope that clarified my question some more.

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You can safely shoot slugs all the way up to modified choke. I've heard of people going heavier on the choke and still shooting slugs but I've also seem a thin wall choke get bulged with improved mod. So the short answer is yes you should be good with slugs through that barrel.

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Cool, thanks for helping out, just don't want to ruin a good barrel on a gun I don't own, like the OP this is my fathers scatter gun he won in a raffle when he was in the navy during the Vietnam thing. Although the way he tells the story, he won a 16GA and took it to the Navy Exchange and for 6bucks he traded up to the 12GA, so all in all he says he has 11 bucks in it, lol. I still imagine it's more important than me, so I now not to screw up the gun otherwise I might face the same fate :).

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