StraightUp_OG Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Oh boy! I can't wait to see what you're dreaming up! And what face mill do you recommend? I must have one now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jid2 Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 For your machine something from this page would be good. In the 1.5" to 2" diameter range. And get the inserts for aluminum and steel - they are different. You can go R8 shank or do the straight 3/4" and use it like TTS. http://www.shars.com/product_categories/view/807222333/45_Degree_Square_Shoulder_Face_SEHWSEHTSEHW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Awesome thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 For your machine something from this page would be good. In the 1.5" to 2" diameter range. And get the inserts for aluminum and steel - they are different. You can go R8 shank or do the straight 3/4" and use it like TTS. http://www.shars.com/product_categories/view/807222333/45_Degree_Square_Shoulder_Face_SEHWSEHTSEHW What makes your millhead a quick change like you have? Is your mill not a mini mill? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 On it's way! Went with the 2" and the R8 arbor. I figured I go with the arbor in case I find other goodies to put on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jid2 Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Just finished up fitting the comp and drilling the holes in the barrel. Man things went so smooth this time, last time I did holes I used a HSS twist drill and broke it off in the barrel. This time a solid carbide straight flute spot drill made it cake. Pulled the flat out to the first section of the comp. Alignment reamed the Comp to the barrel bore. All pretty and done with two 3/16" holes. Video Soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donnyglock Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 You sure spin your tooling fast. Thats going to be an awesome open build. Where did you get the first end mill you used on the barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griz Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 On it's way! Went with the 2" and the R8 arbor. I figured I go with the arbor in case I find other goodies to put on it. I'll be interested in a report on how well that face mill works for you. My X2 with the stock motor doesn't have the horsepower to run a flycutter.. I always assumed a facemill would be just as demanding... your lms version of the x2 is a lot more powerful though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jid2 Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 (edited) What makes your millhead a quick change like you have? Is your mill not a mini mill? My machine is not a Mini Mill, it's an RF45 type machine, which weights a touch over 1000 lbs. I built a pneumatic power draw bar in conjunction with the Tormach Tooling System (TTS). It allows for quick tool changes, but it's a bit prone to having tooling pull out of the spindle when doing heavy roughing. For speeds I just try and run the tools in their operating window, Carbide likes higher SFM and small tools need more RPM in general. For small tools I could really use a MUCH faster spindle. That carbide drill was only running at 100 SFM at 3050 RPM. That 1/2" 4 flute endmill with variable helix came from Maritool. Most of my cutters are from them. Both Maritool and Lakeshore Carbide are popular for high performance carbide at reasonable prices. www.maritool.com http://www.lakeshorecarbide.com/ Edited May 6, 2013 by jid2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donnyglock Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 thanks for the sources. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 you can also try MSC for tools and supplies as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootersteve2011 Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 What speeds are y'all using for titanium compensator ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jid2 Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Depends on tool, machine and operation.Ti is tough stuff though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donnyglock Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Ti getts hot quick. I slowed my speed down a little and used coolant in a spray bottle. Milled fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinj308 Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 If anybody on this thread is getting into this like I am G-Wizard, CNCcookbook.com, is having a sale. 15% off everything, I got a bundle deal with MeshCam, the Editor software and Calculator for $279. That's a pretty good deal considering that MeshCam is normally $250 on its own. Coupon code is "MAYDAY", good till the 20th. Just wanted to pass it along. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 Kick ass! I keep milking the trial for meshcam. ;-) This hobby is like owning a boat. You know what they say ... "Bust Out Another Thousand". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinj308 Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Lol, been there done that. If she's over 40ft it's break out another ten thousand. For what its worth I bought cubify invent for cad. I'm loving that for $49. The only thing I have to compare it to is Heeks and Sketchup, but I think it's awesome. It won't import anything and only exports in .stl, but it's parametric. Way cool program for the dough. I use Heeks if I need to convert an existing file to .stl for cam, but for making a model, Invent is super easy. Forget the tutorials on the website. There's a guy on YouTube that did a full series, really easy to follow. Like 16 videos ,each about 10 min long. 2 week free trial, I bought it on the second day. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 This is one BIG tool! It is almost as wide as my little vise! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0s3ph Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 I just started reading this post and what you have done. I am impressed. That is one big tool. What is the power rating of your spindle motor? Depending on the manufacturer of your motor, you can run at 1.5x rated power for 5-10 minutes, but your drive may limit you time-wise. I also recommend covering your ballscrews as chips and small detents can wreck them. Keep them well-lubricated. Let me know if you have any questions about CNCs. I'm an Electrical Engineer at Haas Automation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) Thanks! It's a 500 Watt brushless and I did not realize that it may have a duty cycle. I have run it for hours at a time without issue as of yet but I did think that I might be replacing a motor sooner than later by doing so. :-) I do need to cover the ball screws but I've been to caught up in making chips! The rubber accordion cover that came with the mill was interfering with the full travel of the y axis so I ditched them. Haas! You guys make some dreamy stuff! I will, without a doubt, ask should I have a question. Edited May 10, 2013 by StraightUp_OG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0s3ph Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Yes. All motors have a duty rating. Is your motor fan cooled? Forced-air cooled makes a world of difference and allows you to run the motor above rating as long as you do not exceed the winding temperature rating. How does this apply to you? This means heavier cuts No need to cool your axis motors since they rarely run at full load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 Yes. All motors have a duty rating. Is your motor fan cooled? Forced-air cooled makes a world of difference and allows you to run the motor above rating as long as you do not exceed the winding temperature rating. How does this apply to you? This means heavier cuts No need to cool your axis motors since they rarely run at full load. Cool. And I do have a fan that I have pointing into the enclosure at the motor to help cool it. I use the touch method, if it is to hot to touch for more than a few seconds I shut'er down to cool off for a while but the fan does indeed make a world of difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jid2 Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Fan cooled really means a fan is attached to the shaft of the motor blowing directly on the windings. It's a character of the motor design itself - not something you can do or add. What type of motor is on the Mini Mill and Super Mini Mill? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinj308 Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Yes. All motors have a duty rating. Is your motor fan cooled? Forced-air cooled makes a world of difference and allows you to run the motor above rating as long as you do not exceed the winding temperature rating. How does this apply to you? This means heavier cuts No need to cool your axis motors since they rarely run at full load. Cool. And I do have a fan that I have pointing into the enclosure at the motor to help cool it. I use the touch method, if it is to hot to touch for more than a few seconds I shut'er down to cool off for a while but the fan does indeed make a world of difference. If you can't hold your hand on it it's at least 140deg. That's pretty conservative for a shutdown, but I'd do the same thing. Conservative is good. Motors I deal with at work usually alarm at 175 and shutdown at 200. That being said we pull them if we see 160 or so. A good running motor bearing, with a fan on the shaft of the motor, is really happy between 100 and 130. I've found these to be good parameters for 1/2 hp up to 400hp. Just my .02. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) Fan cooled really means a fan is attached to the shaft of the motor blowing directly on the windings. It's a character of the motor design itself - not something you can do or add. What type of motor is on the Mini Mill and Super Mini Mill? Understood but I am using an external fan pointing at the motor and it does cool it down at least by my highly scientific touch method. My motor is a 0.67 hp 500 watt brushless. Edit: Oh! The Haas Mini Mill... LOL http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4144&category= Edited May 11, 2013 by StraightUp_OG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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