earplug Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 Had to quit a match today when my 625-8's trigger wouldn't function. Checking it out, I found that the front of the cylinder center pin had mushroomed enough that the pin would stick inside the ejector rod, in the forward position, this would allow the locking bolt to travel forward enough to bind the action. Something else to look at before any big match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 Is this due to a Carmoney Reload where you smack the ejector rod with your weak hand and then reload? Just kidding , seriously any idea on why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earplug Posted January 20, 2013 Author Share Posted January 20, 2013 I'm not sure why, It has a high round count, about 18 lbs of CLAYS, WST and Bullseye. I did cut some coils on the center pin spring to make it easier to open the cylinder but the pin does not have any free travel to bounce around. The front bolt that holds the ejector is in good shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 Ha! We used to call those "Spook/Dan-style reloads," but both of those guys seem to have dropped off the face of the earth. There are still a fair number of us who actuate the extractor with the weak hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 earplug, it's definitely a new one on me. Maybe S&W started farming out that part to Taurus. ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 (edited) Since that pin is supposed to be contained within the ejector rod, when depressed by the cylinder release it presses on the Locking Bolt Pin to release the cylinder. Seems I remember Miculek saying in one of his videos that he cuts that spring to ease the pressure and make a lighter pull. Wonder if you cut too much causing the Center Pin to bounce back and forth. Thereby peening the end until it locked up outside of the Ejector Rod. Remember with the amount of violent action on firing there may be some bounce, even if there's no free play. You can eliminate the Bolt Pin with a Crane Ball, it seems to me most of the pressure on the thumbpiece comes from the Bolt Pin, I've done both and don't really notice the difference though. When you replace it try using a standard spring and if you want to take that pressure off you may need to take some metal off of the back of the Cylinder Release Thumbpiece. When the cylinder is closed you should have a little bit of play to the rear by that thumbpiece. To avoid confusion I'd propose calling the 2 main reload styles: Miculek, switch hands Carmoney, same hands Helps ease my confusion, I seem to forget what I need from one end of the shop to the other! Haven't had a problem on courses yet, maybe has to do with actually wanting to be one place and not the other. Edited January 20, 2013 by pskys2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 (edited) Center pins mushroom. It's not just guns used in competition. Seems to have nothing to do with reloading. Seems not all centerpins are the same hardness. Edited January 20, 2013 by Tom E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothguy Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 (edited) Probably a question for Toolguy, but could you harden the tip by heating and quenching it? Oil or water? I know Warren can tell the temp of the steel by looking at the color when heated. Edited January 20, 2013 by toothguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earplug Posted January 20, 2013 Author Share Posted January 20, 2013 This 625-8 had the soft strain screw problem. I wonder if there was a batch of parts that didn't get the proper heat treatment? When I removed the burr it was easily cut with a file. CJP 2XXX is the serial number if anyone has a like number model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 If you don't want to buy a new Center Pin try removing the mushroom, maybe add a small bevel. Assemble to insure it works smoothly and extends enough to release the cylinder by depressing the Locking Bolt. Remove and heat the end of the pin to a dull red, then quench in water. That will harden it, if that's what you want. Then put a new uncut spring in and hit the range. Personally I'd just buy a new center pin and spring and go with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earplug Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share Posted January 21, 2013 I have cleaned it up and it works fine. When I get enough stuff to justify the postage I'll order a new one or leave a message at S&W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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