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Mushroomed cylinder center pin


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Had to quit a match today when my 625-8's trigger wouldn't function. Checking it out, I found that the front of the cylinder center pin had mushroomed enough that the pin would stick inside the ejector rod, in the forward position, this would allow the locking bolt to travel forward enough to bind the action.

Something else to look at before any big match.


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I'm not sure why, It has a high round count, about 18 lbs of CLAYS, WST and Bullseye. I did cut some coils on the center pin spring to make it easier to open the cylinder but the pin does not have any free travel to bounce around. The front bolt that holds the ejector is in good shape.

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Since that pin is supposed to be contained within the ejector rod, when depressed by the cylinder release it presses on the Locking Bolt Pin to release the cylinder. Seems I remember Miculek saying in one of his videos that he cuts that spring to ease the pressure and make a lighter pull. Wonder if you cut too much causing the Center Pin to bounce back and forth. Thereby peening the end until it locked up outside of the Ejector Rod. Remember with the amount of violent action on firing there may be some bounce, even if there's no free play. You can eliminate the Bolt Pin with a Crane Ball, it seems to me most of the pressure on the thumbpiece comes from the Bolt Pin, I've done both and don't really notice the difference though.

When you replace it try using a standard spring and if you want to take that pressure off you may need to take some metal off of the back of the Cylinder Release Thumbpiece. When the cylinder is closed you should have a little bit of play to the rear by that thumbpiece.

To avoid confusion I'd propose calling the 2 main reload styles:

Miculek, switch hands

Carmoney, same hands

Helps ease my confusion, I seem to forget what I need from one end of the shop to the other!

Haven't had a problem on courses yet, maybe has to do with actually wanting to be one place and not the other. :yawn:

Edited by pskys2
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This 625-8 had the soft strain screw problem. I wonder if there was a batch of parts that didn't get the proper heat treatment?

When I removed the burr it was easily cut with a file.

CJP 2XXX is the serial number if anyone has a like number model.

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If you don't want to buy a new Center Pin try removing the mushroom, maybe add a small bevel.

Assemble to insure it works smoothly and extends enough to release the cylinder by depressing the Locking Bolt.

Remove and heat the end of the pin to a dull red, then quench in water. That will harden it, if that's what you want.

Then put a new uncut spring in and hit the range.

Personally I'd just buy a new center pin and spring and go with that.

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