kwesi Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Witness Limited 10mm with about 875 rounds fired since purchasing new: During the range visit the following occurred in case it helps to diagnose: 1. the slide rarely locked open on the last round ( I loaded only 3 rounds per mag ) 2. I've got the newer mags with the black follower 3. when the last round in each mag was fired the hammer would on occasion rest at the half cock position 4. other than the above the gun functioned perfectly 5. 180gr FMJ - my loads After getting back home and cleaning the gun. I checked by inserting an empty mag and locked the slide back. The hammer moved fully to the rear but when I release the slide stop she goes into battery BUT the hammer moves forward to the "half cock resting position". Anyone experienced this? Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BritinUSA Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Check the front trigger adjustment screw, it may need to be wound in a turn. It sounds like the trigger may not be fully forward which can cause the hammer to follow. Also check the sear housing to make sure its not loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Yes I've seen this on 2 of my pistols when the stock sear starts to round off on the bottom edge. There is a thread somewhere around here about it. On my 10mm it was like 900 to 1000 rounds, and on my 9mm limited it was more like 9,000 rounds..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwesi Posted January 16, 2013 Author Share Posted January 16, 2013 Do you mean the trigger adjustment screw that is located in the lower housing that requires the slide to be removed to adjust? Everything appears tight to my finger just forward of the hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwesi Posted January 16, 2013 Author Share Posted January 16, 2013 Yes I've seen this on 2 of my pistols when the stock sear starts to round off on the bottom edge. There is a thread somewhere around here about it. On my 10mm it was like 900 to 1000 rounds, and on my 9mm limited it was more like 9,000 rounds..? Nealio: are you saying it has worn out and needs to go back to EAA as a warranty claim? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwesi Posted January 16, 2013 Author Share Posted January 16, 2013 Update: last night I used my flashlight to look back towards the hammer & where the sear is located and noticed an accumulation of stuff. It was very thin so I used a dental pic to glide it out. It sure looks like shiny metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 I'm saying its possible the bottom edge of the sear has rounded off. I don't know if you can get a warranty claim. I replaced all my sears with EGW ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 You are experiencing hammer follow. Hammer follow is usually due to the Sear to Hammer Hook engagement points getting worn out. A quick way to test this is to unload the gun (No mag or ammo in the gun). Then rack the slide to cock the hammer back. Then use your thumb nail to over cock the hammer then release it. You can use a tool to do this as well. The goal here is to over cock the hammer then let it snap back to the cocked position. When you do this test, if the hammer drops past the "Cocked" position, to the "Half Cock" position then you know your Sear/Hammer are worn out and need replaced. The stock sear and hammer should last more than 1000 rounds. You could send it back to EAA for warranty repairs. They may or may not fix it for free. You will have to work that out with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwesi Posted January 17, 2013 Author Share Posted January 17, 2013 You guys nailed it. Cha-Lee: the hammer fell to the half cock position! This really concerns me for a $1,000 gun. I would expect the sear/hammer to be good for 5,000 - 10,000 rounds. Just might be time to get her all fixed and say good-bye to Tanfoglio's :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 (edited) Don't throw the baby out with the bath water over a little issue like that. Always remember that pretty much any "Non-Custom" gun is mass produced and some times bad parts or poor workmanship slip through the system. Give EAA a chance to make it right. The Sear and Hammer wearing out in less than 1000 rounds is very uncommon, so you obviously got some bad parts on the gun. The stock sear and hammer should last many thousands of rounds before wearing out. If EAA does not want to take care of you I have some stock Sears and Hammers laying around. I will send you a set for free. All of the ones I have are pretty much brand new as I take them out and replace them with EGW parts as soon as I get the new gun and do a trigger job. You can also look at this as an opportunity to upgrade to the EGW sear and hammer as they are far better quality parts and you can make a really kick ass trigger with them. Edited January 17, 2013 by CHA-LEE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwesi Posted January 17, 2013 Author Share Posted January 17, 2013 Cha-Lee: your most generous offer is greatly appreciated! Fortunately this gun came thru Davidson's Firearms so I'm taking it to one of their local dealers. They pay the shipping both ways back to EAA for repairs. I would purchase Henning's sear and hammer if I was more handy. Henning told me they require fitting. I'm not that confident in my ability. Wish you lived closer ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmbaccolyte Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 It's great that we have guys like Nealio and Cha-Lee here who are willing to help out. I learn a lot on this forum. Question- I've always put a drop of oil at the base of the cocked hammer to lube the hammer hooks & sear at the beginning of each practice session. Is this a waste of time? I don't see anyone else at the range doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 It's great that we have guys like Nealio and Cha-Lee here who are willing to help out. I learn a lot on this forum. Question- I've always put a drop of oil at the base of the cocked hammer to lube the hammer hooks & sear at the beginning of each practice session. Is this a waste of time? I don't see anyone else at the range doing it. Regularly lubricating the parts rubbing against one another is never a bad habit. Keeping parts sufficiently lubricated extends their life by reducing friction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 You can also look at this as an opportunity to upgrade to the EGW sear and hammer as they are far better quality parts and you can make a really kick ass trigger with them. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmbaccolyte Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmbaccolyte Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Nealio- Does using the EGW sear and hammer eliminate the firing pin block? I hesitate to deactivate a safety device unless its on a pistol which is strictly reserved for competition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 You can still run the firing pin block, it just will never be "on". IMHO the Tanfoglio firing pin block is worthless anyway, because its a passive block which is only engaged by the sear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmbaccolyte Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 What does " its a passive block which is only engaged by the sear" mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 At rest the firing pin block is "disengaged" (off) which is the opposite of most designs. It is "engaged" by an arm of the sear, when the gun is either cocked, in 1/2 cock, or the hammer is at rest. However this is only the case if the slide is in full battery. If it is slightly out of battery, then the firing pin block is "disengaged". If your sear happens to slip and pop up (allowing the hammer to fall), then the firing pin block is disengaged by the leg of the sear. This to me this sear slipping the main reason you would have a firing pin block. I do not know what type of actions that this design of firing pin block would do you any good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary1911A1 Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Nealio, good post. I didn't know that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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