Franco79 Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Merry Christmas all!! I currently have the 650 press set up for .45acp. I got my xmas wish list for everything needed to load .223 ammo on my 650. I even got a RT1200 trimmer. My question is, can I use the trimmer with the .223 carbide die set to size, trim, deprime? Or do I need to buy the 1200 Size/Trim Die? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxerglocker Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 (edited) It needs a RT1200 trim die. FL size and decap at station 1, RT1200B with trim die at station 4. Lube, size and trim.... deswage primer pocket if necessary. Tumble lube off in dry corncob. Switch to a loading tool head with universal decap die to push any trapped media out of the flash holes, powder drop, bullet seat and crimp. Edited December 25, 2012 by Boxerglocker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franco79 Posted December 25, 2012 Author Share Posted December 25, 2012 Shit! Now I have to order one of these and wait til next weekend to use it.. I guess dillon didnt tell my wife I would need one of these adaprers if the trimmer is purchased. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franco79 Posted December 25, 2012 Author Share Posted December 25, 2012 (edited) Let me ask you all this then. Here is what I have to load up 223 ammo: Conversion Kit Carbide DIE Set Case Gage Super Swage 600 1200 Case Trimmer XL650 Quick Change Kit Here is some other things I forgot to add to the list. Small Rife Case Feed Plate (for case feeder) Dillon Case Lube .223 Size/ Trim DIE (for 1200 Case Trimmer) Extra Tool Head and of course brass and bullets. Is there anything else that I "NEED" to make this work? Thanks! Edited December 26, 2012 by Franco79 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxerglocker Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 (edited) I would get a universal decap die for your loading toolhead and Dillon case lube. Edited December 26, 2012 by Boxerglocker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franco79 Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 (edited) Whats a "Universal Decap DIE", and what does it do? I would get a universal decap die for your loading toolhead and Dillon case lube. Edited December 26, 2012 by Franco79 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdub5818 Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Whats a "Universal Decap DIE", and what does it do? I would get a universal decap die for your loading toolhead and Dillon case lube. Decaps only. No sizing. Used to ensure no media in flash hole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franco79 Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 Gotcha! So where would this fit in on the tool head? I had planned on going with the (2) tool head method. First tool head: Station 1 Size, Deprime, Station 3 Trim. Now tumble all the brass to get lube off.. Next tool head station 1 (Im guessing the universal decap die?) Station 2 prime, Station 4 bullet seat, station 5 crimp. Is this the ideal method, or am I missing something here? Whats a "Universal Decap DIE", and what does it do? I would get a universal decap die for your loading toolhead and Dillon case lube. Decaps only. No sizing. Used to ensure no media in flash hole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Yes, although some would differ on using a crimp die at all. Don't really need it if you don't "bell" the case mouth at all. Most bullets will seat alright without that step, especially BT ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franco79 Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 (edited) The Dillon 3 DIE set comes with a Taper Crimp Die, so I should not install the Taper Crimp Die in the shell plate? I have always heard that you should "crimp" if the ammo is to be used in a Semi-Auto firearm, because it prevents the bullet from getting pushed further back into the case when the bolt slams it into battery. Yes, although some would differ on using a crimp die at all. Don't really need it if you don't "bell" the case mouth at all. Most bullets will seat alright without that step, especially BT ones. Edited December 26, 2012 by Franco79 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdub5818 Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 For semi auto i prefer to crimp. Albeit mildly. Just enough to ensure no setback, but be sure not too much. As noted in a post above, some prefer to not crimp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 A thread with more case trimming info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike in CT Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 BoxerGlocker, What is that clear tubing on your press? I watched the video and did not see any cases dumping into the Akro bin so I am assuming that is some type of shell catcher? I just got my 650 and have set it up and loaded 100 rounds of 40. I went with the 2 toolhead set up for 223 as well, using the trimmer on one head and a deprime die on the second toolhead. I am looking forward to running about 1,000 .223 rounds through the Dillon shortly. I previously loaded on a Hornady but am finding the 650 very a very nice machine, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
traderpats Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 That clear tubing is for the spent primers. It's an attachment that takes the place of the bin. If you watch closely you can see the primers drop through the tube. There are a couple different ways to do it yourself or you can pay for a "kit". Fairly simple mod.... You can see the brass falling into the Akro bin, it is visible but just barely below the arm... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxerglocker Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 That clear tubing is for the spent primers. It's an attachment that takes the place of the bin. If you watch closely you can see the primers drop through the tube. There are a couple different ways to do it yourself or you can pay for a "kit". Fairly simple mod.... You can see the brass falling into the Akro bin, it is visible but just barely below the arm... That's exactly what it is... it is a drilled out 44 magnum case mounted on a match drilled aluminum plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lablover Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Boxerglocker Question, do you have the sizing die in station one do all the sizing? If so, how do you set up the rt1200 trimmer F/L die? I want to clean up my necks and size on station one (in case of dents in neck) Then I have the rt1200 die do the rest of the sizing to get it sized fully. I'd be interested in how you have your size dies set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franco79 Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 What is a "match drilled aluminum plate?" I see there are Mods avail for purchase on Ebay for about $25, but I think I can come up with a 44 maga shell and tubing That clear tubing is for the spent primers. It's an attachment that takes the place of the bin. If you watch closely you can see the primers drop through the tube. There are a couple different ways to do it yourself or you can pay for a "kit". Fairly simple mod.... You can see the brass falling into the Akro bin, it is visible but just barely below the arm... That's exactly what it is... it is a drilled out 44 magnum case mounted on a match drilled aluminum plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franco79 Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 (edited) Are these 223 cases sized properly? The "LOW" side of the gage is to the left and the "HIGH" side is to the right. The "HIGH" side of the gage is flush with the back of the case and the "LOW" side is just below the rim of the case. Just looking for input before I proceed. Edited January 4, 2013 by Franco79 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxerglocker Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 I would ensure the back of the case is below the high side at bare minimum. I have mine just barely above the low side if not flush with the low side. I use mixed brass though so it takes into account the different variations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franco79 Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 The back of the case is below the high side of the case gage and like you, it is barely above the low side. So I should be good to go right? I would ensure the back of the case is below the high side at bare minimum. I have mine just barely above the low side if not flush with the low side. I use mixed brass though so it takes into account the different variations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxerglocker Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 (edited) The back of the case is below the high side of the case gage and like you, it is barely above the low side. So I should be good to go right? I would ensure the back of the case is below the high side at bare minimum. I have mine just barely above the low side if not flush with the low side. I use mixed brass though so it takes into account the different variations. You should be, run a half dozen dummy rounds and see how they feed in your rifle. You'll know if your not there if they are hard to extract or worse the BCG will not go to battery. Edited January 4, 2013 by Boxerglocker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franco79 Posted January 6, 2013 Author Share Posted January 6, 2013 Well, I fed my rifle some empty brass and let the bolt go into battery. Some of the brass was a bit*h to extract and others were "sticky"! Im guessing I need to bump the shoulder down another .002 or so? Are these 223 cases sized properly? The "LOW" side of the gage is to the left and the "HIGH" side is to the right. The "HIGH" side of the gage is flush with the back of the case and the "LOW" side is just below the rim of the case. Just looking for input before I proceed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Religious Shooter Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 When setting up your rifle sizing die I'd recommend that you eventually get either an RCBS mic or the Hornady headspace gauge. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/477756/rcbs-precision-mic-223-remington http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gage-5-bushing-set-with-comparator Using that case gage can be frustrating and imprecise to set up your sizing die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxerglocker Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 I just set mine up so the case it is just above flush with the lower step. Yeah, you could use a Hornady head space gauge but the reality is in a MIL-SPEC chamber the Dillon gauge is close enough. I would a head space gauge when FL sizing my Lapua match brass after annealing (5 firings) The only reason I do it to not set the shoulder too far back for the next initial form firing. I've checked my eyeballed set brass using the case gauge against new unfired LC brass using a head space gauge, it's pretty much dead on using the method I described above. I honestly would rather give it a little more (withing spec) than too little. Having the problem in not being able to extract a live round during a match can be an issue. Especially if you have some other type of failure, that you need to pull the charging handle to clear the rifle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Religious Shooter Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 I just set mine up so the case it is just above flush with the lower step. Yeah, you could use a Hornady head space gauge but the reality is in a MIL-SPEC chamber the Dillon gauge is close enough. From his posts he appears to be using the Dillon gage correctly. But he says that the resized cases were sticky. So his chamber is probably tighter than what the Dillon gage says is acceptable. With fired cases from his rifle and using either the RCBS or the Hornady there's less doubt in how much he should resize the brass. The RCBS/Hornady gives you actutal #'s where the case gage relies on the eyeball. The choice is either use your eyeball to see if you are correct (case gage that assumes certain dimensions) or use "micrometers" (the RCBS or Hornady) to determine if you are correct. The Hornady set is like $35-40 and the RCBS is $50. If a reloader will be reloading for years... money well spent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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