traderpats

They just slid right in and simply pivot in place. They're not going anywhere and do a fine job of keeping primers inside the ram. BTW you're not the first one, or last, to miss putting in the primer arms. Ask me how I know.....

Another place to keep on eye on is over at J&G Sales. They had the Vibra-Prime in stock for awhile also. Snagged one there but those didn't last long either......

I missed the Midway email when it went out and by the time I got there they were gone. J&G Sales had some in stock too so I snagged one of those. J&G's didn't last too long either. At least these are being manufactured again.....

This is pretty much what I had to do. All it took was a SMALL bend in the wire, away from the brass. Went from binding now and then to 100% reliable. Didn't take much at all.....

Thats what I did many years ago. 1/8" really helps Same. Clearance for removing the tube too. A good and easy mod.....

Yellow, you're confusing terms. Headspace is the measurement from the boltface to the datum line on the brass case. For the best measurement if tayloring to a specific rifle, use a headspace guage like the one from Hornady and bump the shoulder back around .003. However if reloading ammo that may be used in multiple rifles follow the manufactures directions for setting the dies then adjust until it works is a case guage which should be saami spec. The method you mention is for loading a bullet to the lands for bullet "jump". This is useful for bolt action rifles but in ar type of rifles (not counting single load ammo) you'll run out of mag room before you get anywhere near the lands. Two different things altogether. Hope that helps...

If you're still looking PV showed the Nosler 77gr in stock this morning for right at that price too ....

Can you cause it to feed (brass to drop) by pushing on the arm itself? That is, is the arm bushing moving over enough to properly align the case so it drops straight? If not then simply adjust the case insert slide (that tall black plastic piece that operates the case feed cam) so it moves it over enough. That's all I got....

I addition to what other have already stated make sure the brass is getting seated really well in the shellplate. I was getting a crushed case once inawhile and after adjusting that plastic slider forward just a tad, so the case was pushed just a bit futher into the shellplate, it was fixed. Lossen the hex head bolt on the side to make this minor adjustment. It also helps to run Dillon or other "progressinve" dies that have a bit wider opening for the brass. That's all I got....

This. Measure the shoulders of brass fired out of that rifle then set your die to bump them back around .003 and you should be just fine without possibly overdoing it. Also get that piece for measureing chamber length so you know how long your brass is allowed to be for that particular rifle. Might as well get the bullet comparator too since it uses some of the same parts. All of these are pretty darn inexpensive but useful tools. Gives you more data to work with to tweak loads for individual firearms ...

That clear tubing is for the spent primers. It's an attachment that takes the place of the bin. If you watch closely you can see the primers drop through the tube. There are a couple different ways to do it yourself or you can pay for a "kit". Fairly simple mod.... You can see the brass falling into the Akro bin, it is visible but just barely below the arm...

I've been using the SS / Wet method for a few years now without any problems. That method does clean incredilby well and I've read where some need to lube a bit inside pistol case mouths to make it easier on the expander. The only thing I've changed is I'm trying out some larger size pins to see if I can get away from any at all being stuck in flash holes. Not that is was a huge pain but still. They just arrived today so no time to try them out just yet....

Great idea, that should be doable. Wish I would have thought of it. Shouldn't be anymore difficult than changing out large / small primer parts. Going to have to look into this.....

An easy way to test an area for possible lead dust is get a kit for it. They run around $20 give or take depending on what you want. I believe most are simple "color change" media on a swab. They are used in construction areas, especially in 70's and earlier homes constructed before lead in paint was banned. The swabs will tell you if you need to clean up in your bench area. You can probably find the test kits at Home Depot or if not then online should be easy. BTW Also went to SS / Wet media for the same reasons....

Line from "Freaks", right? That's going back a long ways.... Yeah, the 650 with case feeder is the way to go. I bought on on Craigslist not too long ago. Was going to process my "stash" then re-sell most of it and get a 550 for day to day reloading. However after batch processing brass, WITH the Dillon case trimmer, case collator and all the other goodies there is no going back to anything less. The savings in time and effort are simply to nice... As for the primers I load as many tubes as I will need for my reloading session. Can prefill upto 500 if need be. Just fill them during "down time" and set them aside for use later. Makes a much more enjoyable experience not having to stop and peck primers....

Another vote for the 650 here with some caveats. The 650 w/casefeeder (and dillon trimmer) is a monster of a time saver when processing brass. Just fill up the collator, pop in my "case prep" toolhead and go to town. Same thing when trimming, even more so. Saves time and my hands if processing lots of cases. I bought mine used and was going to process my "stash" then resell the press and pickup a 550 for general day to day reloading. However after using the 650 I find the saving in time and effort when batch processing too much to my liking and will be keeping it. I don't know but in my opinion changing out conversions is ..... easy - peasy. I went to all small primer .45 acp so I wouldn't have to change out the primer system and minus that it's only a few parts. Takes what, maybe 15 minutes even taking your time if that? I wouldn't make change overs a factor in my decision unless doing a whole lot of small runs....

That seller is a member on here and has a company in Oregon. Goes by the same id on here as on ebay. Ask around on this site, you'll find he and his products have a good rep.

Wow, that is a good idea. You can load anything, and never have to screw with the priming system..... well i think i am sold on that idea. Acquiring another press is always nice but I was on a budget so the route I took was to buy up a few thousand small primer .45acp instead. Now loading 9mm, .223 and .45 acp w/o having to change out the primer system. Cheaper than buying a new press....

I've processed thousands of crimped LC (for the most part) brass with the Dillon Super Swage and my experience for what it's worth: I've found the the slightest touch with the swager will do the trick. Most of the time I can't even feel the swage happen at all. The crimp is at the edge of the primer pocket, no sense jamming the swagger all way to the bottom. It's always a good practice to be swagging identical brass too as differences in years or makes may have variances that could affect the swage setting. If need be, (like me), use a magnifying glass or one of those desk magnifiers / lights from Harbor Freight. Adjust the swage rod just until you see a tiny mark in the pocket that is just past the pocket edge. It'll be barely visible, that is the crimp removed. Done deal. Makes the pockets able to take primers but keeps them tight too. You can clean up the pocket with a uniformer the first time around if you want but it's not necessary. Hope this helps.

Dated thread but: I have a couple thousand of each the 230gr Zero JHP and FMJ from last year. I measured a few and the JHP comes in at .637 while the fmj measured .655. The area above the ogive on the JHP appears to be wider than the FMJ round. Although one would think the JHP would be the longer of the two it's actually the other way around. At least on the ones I just measured. My reloading notes seem to back up this observation as I noted the adjustment to the aol to compensate for the difference when using the same powder charge.