jnshapiro Posted August 22, 2004 Share Posted August 22, 2004 I can get into the gun and clean it out, and work on the springs, but I don't know what needs to be done to disconnect the grip safety. My hand doesn't often grip the gun in such a way as to make it work the way it's supposed to, even with an oversized one. I figure the easiest way to take care of the problem is to just disconnect it. Is it as simple as cutting the spring down? I haven't pulled the trigger and sear out, so maybe there is something in there? A disconnector that can be removed or something? Ok, I think I figured out what the disconnect does. But I still don't know how to disable the grip safety. Help? Thanks! Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loves2Shoot Posted August 22, 2004 Share Posted August 22, 2004 a 1911? You can either bend the right leaf spring flat, or grind off the tab on the right side of the beavertail that pushes on the leaf spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnshapiro Posted August 22, 2004 Author Share Posted August 22, 2004 Thanks. That'll do it. Appreciate the response. Off to the file! It's finished. I got tired of filing and used a dremel . It's perfect now, just how I wanted it. I also took advantage of the time in there to clean it out and deburr. Much better! Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.40AET Posted August 22, 2004 Share Posted August 22, 2004 Pinning a grip safety A search always brings up some good information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino Posted August 23, 2004 Share Posted August 23, 2004 Joel ... grinding away the part of the grip safety that blocks the trigger bow is the LEAST preferable way to deactivate the grip safety. Once you do it, you can't go back. I do not recommend it. Pinning is a much better choice. In addition to being reversible, it locks the grip safety in the depressed position, so you don't have the useless piece of moving metal like you would if you ground the leg off. Until you can get it pinned, the low tech (and very effective) way to do it is to wrap some electrical or similar tape around the grip a couple of times. It works great and you haven't ruined any parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnshapiro Posted August 23, 2004 Author Share Posted August 23, 2004 Thanks Rhino. I might go ahead and pin it, but I've already removed the tab. This gun is only used for competitive shooting, and it's easy enough to replace the part. I need to get out to the range and see how it feels before I decide what to do next. As it is now, it's a dramatic improvement. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dream Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 If you don't pin it , it will rattle and pinning will hold it in the same possition all the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkbrd Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 The shock buff trick is still the best I have used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loves2Shoot Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 If you don't pin it , it will rattle and pinning will hold it in the same possition all the time If you cut the tab and leave the spring bent, there is no need to pin it. The spring will keep constant tension on the saftey so it wont rattle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 I was big on the shock buff technique until my very carefully shaped and positioned shock buff started rubbing my hammer strut. Not that I would pin mine or anything like that , I just don't like buff's rubbin' my strut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkbrd Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 I have found that if you cut the buff with a slight L shape it will hold the buff to the outside keeping it from ever getting near the strut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loves2Shoot Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 I have found that if you cut the buff with a slight L shape it will hold the buff to the outside keeping it from ever getting near the strut. Just something extra to go wrong if you put a loose piece in your gun Cut the bugger off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted August 28, 2004 Share Posted August 28, 2004 L2S...following that logic...you should be shooting a Glock (if it works...it works) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek45 Posted August 28, 2004 Share Posted August 28, 2004 What's the shock buff technique? jamming a shock buff between the MSH and beavertail ? ? ? ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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