Disconnecting the Grip Safety

[jnshapiro]

I can get into the gun and clean it out, and work on the springs, but I don't know what needs to be done to disconnect the grip safety. My hand doesn't often grip the gun in such a way as to make it work the way it's supposed to, even with an oversized one. I figure the easiest way to take care of the problem is to just disconnect it. Is it as simple as cutting the spring down? I haven't pulled the trigger and sear out, so maybe there is something in there? A disconnector that can be removed or something?

Ok, I think I figured out what the disconnect does. But I still don't know how to disable the grip safety. Help?

Thanks!

Joel

[Loves2Shoot]

a 1911? You can either bend the right leaf spring flat, or grind off the tab on the right side of the beavertail that pushes on the leaf spring.

[jnshapiro]

Thanks. That'll do it. Appreciate the response. Off to the file!

It's finished. I got tired of filing and used a dremel . It's perfect now, just how I wanted it. I also took advantage of the time in there to clean it out and deburr. Much better!

Joel

[.40AET]

Pinning a grip safety

A search always brings up some good information.

[rhino]

Joel ... grinding away the part of the grip safety that blocks the trigger bow is the LEAST preferable way to deactivate the grip safety. Once you do it, you can't go back. I do not recommend it.

Pinning is a much better choice. In addition to being reversible, it locks the grip safety in the depressed position, so you don't have the useless piece of moving metal like you would if you ground the leg off.

Until you can get it pinned, the low tech (and very effective) way to do it is to wrap some electrical or similar tape around the grip a couple of times. It works great and you haven't ruined any parts.

[jnshapiro]

Thanks Rhino. I might go ahead and pin it, but I've already removed the tab. This gun is only used for competitive shooting, and it's easy enough to replace the part.

I need to get out to the range and see how it feels before I decide what to do next. As it is now, it's a dramatic improvement.

Joel

[Dream]

If you don't pin it , it will rattle

and pinning will hold it in the same possition all the time

[blkbrd]

The shock buff trick is still the best I have used.

[Loves2Shoot]

If you don't pin it , it will rattle

and pinning will hold it in the same possition all the time

If you cut the tab and leave the spring bent, there is no need to pin it. The spring will keep constant tension on the saftey so it wont rattle.

[Singlestack]

I was big on the shock buff technique until my very carefully shaped and positioned shock buff started rubbing my hammer strut.

Not that I would pin mine or anything like that , I just don't like buff's rubbin' my strut.

[blkbrd]

I have found that if you cut the buff with a slight L shape it will hold the buff to the outside keeping it from ever getting near the strut.

[Loves2Shoot]

I have found that if you cut the buff with a slight L shape it will hold the buff to the outside keeping it from ever getting near the strut.

Just something extra to go wrong if you put a loose piece in your gun Cut the bugger off

[Flexmoney]

L2S...following that logic...you should be shooting a Glock

(if it works...it works)

[Derek45]

What's the shock buff technique?

jamming a shock buff between the MSH and beavertail ? ? ? ?