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Can a Glock fire without going into full battery?


Rick88

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The round passed the case gauge barrel test RO said he thought it might not went into battery, question is can a Glock fire without going into full battery or did I just have a worn out piece of brass? This why I ask.

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Most any gun is capable of firing out of battery. The odds are not great that it will happen because all the right parts would need to be worn or out of spec to let it happen. Did you experience a case head separation? A worn piece of brass is not always visible. Did the brass have a ring above the extractor groove?

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I must confess I had been playing around with the springs so I wont blame the gun.

Were you going lighter? You can go light enough on the recoil spring to allow the firing pin spring to overcome the recoil spring weight and pull it out of battery.

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Factory striker spring and light ie 11 pound recoil spring can cause it to come out of battery. If you go 11 pound and even sometimes 13 pound a light weight striker spring is needed. When going with a light striker spring it is also nice to have an extended LW striker. I like the Jager one best as it actually feels better in the trigger dept. Another spring combo to avoid is an extra power trigger spring and a light striker spring as this dosent always allow the trigger safety to engage.

Spring combos to avoid

Light striker spring and extra power trigger spring-----dosent always allow trigger safety to reset

Light ie 11 pound recoil spring and factory striker spring----can pull slide out of battery

Spring combos that work

Light weight striker spring, light weight striker ie jager, factory trigger spring, 13 pound(maby 11 pound if you check to make sure the slide stays in battery and keep an eye on it as spring wears) recoil spring

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If the springs are still the same try dry firing it and see if very light pressure will open it up.

Slide doesnt move at all dry firing. At this point I think it was bad brass, although Im going to bump up the recoil spring weight the 11 only has a couple thousand on it but I hear they wear down very fast running major loads.

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You should try dry firing the gun with the muzzle pointed up. First time I tried that I was amazed at how easily and far I pulled the slide out of battery. After playing around with some springs, I essentially went back to 13+# recoil springs. That is also the reason why I gave up on using the Glock format as an Open gun; heavy spring and compensator would not (reliably) operate the action and a light spring and compensator would pull the slide out of battery causing at the very least a few fliers going high. I know many can get the Glock to work with light springs and or compensated, but for me the margin of reliability was very small and too finicky for me to enjoy the experience.

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I did have it pointed up there was no movement. I have never had any problem with the gun before or since the brass issue. One thing for sure though no more range brass for me, unless I know for sure that it came out of my gun.

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Just to verify things,

Glocks' slides DO move when trigger is pulled even w/ std oem recoil spring but not out of battery. This is my observation in all my glocks in 9 and .40

my Glock open set up w/ 11# recoil spring coupled w/ Gk oem striker spring in a Vanek GM trigger never went out of battery in thousands of rounds of 9maj thru it. But I dry-tested it before shooting and the slide dont go OOB when trigger is pulled.

But my Glocks can fire w/ slight OOB.

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Because of the loose slide-to-frame fit on all glocks, it is common to see the slide settle down at the back end when pulling the trigger. In other words the slide moves closer to the frame in the act of removing all the slide-frame slack. That's normal. What is not normal is the slide backing up when performing the (empty gun) vertical test. I've never seen any glock back up when using the stock recoil spring assy plus either a stock striker spring or reduced striker spring. Almost every back-out condition i've seen (seen a lot of them) involves an aftermarket steel or tungsten guide rod.

Many times the quoted aftermarket spring strength doesn't directly compare to the way glock describes their own springs. The most important thing a glock recoil spring can do is to be strong enough to keep the slide closed. There's no mainspring to hold the slide closed at ignition like on a 1911 and unlike a 1911 the glock trigger press tries to open your slide. This means that altering the length of a glock recoil spring is more hazardous than on some other guns; same goes for a spring that weakens over time to settle at a shorter length, that's bad too.

Re: post #20 - I agree with most all of that. Because of the way the glock can easily fire out of battery, it's important to have an Open-division compensator that is as light as possible and allow the strongest possible recoil spring (like 15 lbs, minimum). Personally I think titanium is the way to go but aluminum is more common and has its own advantages - allows a slightly bigger comp and costs less.

Not mentioned often is another Open Glock balancing act with a small margin for success and that is the desire to use the lightest striker spring while also shooting high-pressure ammo. What happens is you have a choice of using Federal primers for reliable ignition, or harder primers (like CCI small rifle primers) to contain high pressures. I'd recommend not allowing a primer to perforate, which can happen with small-granule powders like HS7, HS6, or Vectan SP2; better to use Rifle primers or switch to large-granule powders that don't flow thru the flash-hole, these include most of the Vihtavouri powders. But, careful with 3N37 which has a tendency toward high pressure signs on any primer along with very high heat generated - like enough to make your slide untouchable after a couple mags of ammo fired. My 2 cents

Edited by eric nielsen
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My Open Glock w/ 11# rec spring was upped to 13# in recent months due to concerns discussed by Eric Nielsen above. I even considered using the stock 17# oem spring before. But w/ Eric's fine explanation above, Im seriously reconsidering the 17# spring specially now that Im using stock fp spring, but w/ penalty of greater muzzle flip of course. Its not just firing OOB that concerns me, its also the general safe function of an open gun.

Edited by BoyGlock
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