dlee14

I had the same symptoms with my 650. I found it to be from the primer seating motion. My solution was to move to a 1050 because the priming is on the down stroke and with much more leverage and much smoother. My elbow pains and arm pains are much relieved and my only complaint is that the roller handle is on the horizontal plain which causes my arm to be twisted when operating. I considered fabricating a somewhat vertical handle like the hand pedal recumbent bikes, but its probably not necessary now that I'm using the 1050. I'm loading 10x more volume and have only 10% of the aches in my joints.

i watched the video on the VFD and my brain almost exploded; its too much for me to handle. I need to keep it simple and want a basic motor with geared reduction, clutch would be nice also. Anyone have a recommendation for a 110volt single speed motor?

I'm wanting to motorize my RL1050 and need recommendations on which motor to use. I want single phase and i'm guessing 1/4hp, reversible and 20 rpm. Does it matter if it is angled or in line drive? Does it need a electronic brake or clutch? Does someone have the model number of the Oriental Motor unit and a recommended source to buy the motor?

Does baking the regular Cerakote in the kitchen oven smell up the house? Does a big, natural gas BBQ work for the bake? I have a HK MP5/SD that needs Cerakote-ing and it won't fit into a toaster oven.

I'm wanting to use up some 4756 powder with 130gr fmj bullets in Starline 38SC brass and Small Rifle Primers being shot in open gun with 5" barrel. Just practice and occasional weekend matchs. I'm guessing I should go with making major pf, but no need to add safety cushion on top of that because i'm not shooting any sanctioned matches any time soon. I did some searches and could not find anything for this powder and bullet weight. What do you guys recommend for loads? Thanks.

Which version do you recommend and why? I am thinking of using this for fun, but occasionally shoot USPSA. The other use for the gun is for new shooter to get used to USPSA styled shooting. Thanks for your input.

You should try dry firing the gun with the muzzle pointed up. First time I tried that I was amazed at how easily and far I pulled the slide out of battery. After playing around with some springs, I essentially went back to 13+# recoil springs. That is also the reason why I gave up on using the Glock format as an Open gun; heavy spring and compensator would not (reliably) operate the action and a light spring and compensator would pull the slide out of battery causing at the very least a few fliers going high. I know many can get the Glock to work with light springs and or compensated, but for me the margin of reliability was very small and too finicky for me to enjoy the experience.

Can someone please give me the specification on how deep is the sear pin hole on the sear block. I have the small pin/spring and want to put in the large pin/spring. I need to know how deep to drill the hole. i know it is offset from the original hole and will use my mill to accurately drill it in the sear channel. Can someone help me out?

I got an itch to try out the thumb safety on my M&P40L. Anyone know where I can get the parts for the conversion? I think I will need the following parts; Thumb safety lever, Sear block for Thumb safety model, Ejector for thumb safety model. I am prepared for the small cut out on my frame; no biggie. The lever is available from SSS, but the other two parts I can't seem to find. Anyone know of a source? Thanks to all.

Sometimes it works for me to put the lock nut on the BOTTOM of the tool head.

Thanks for the comments, even the humorous ones about lube. BTW, I do use lube to lower the effort as well as saving my dies. I think the priming mode is the problem, especially with different brass mfg'ers having different effort on the priming. It's just that last little push to fully seat the primers that is giving me pain after 1k loading. Combine that with the shooting of the 1k bullets, I end up with some elbow pain. My suspicion that some of you confirmed is that the 1050 will eliminate the priming push on the 650 so the entire loading stroke is one smooth, continuous pull; rather that pull, push. I guess I will go hunting for a good deal on a 1050 and then if my elbow still hurts, I can add a PW drive, with a bullet feeder of course. Hmmmm.

Every time I reload a bunch of bullets, my elbow hurts. I used to think it was the shooting that bothered my elbow, but now I am thinking it is the reloading more than the shooting. I am using a 650 and suspect the forward priming motion to be the culprit. So I am asking those that have used both the 650 and the 1050; Is the 1050 easier on the elbow? Yes I am looking for justification to buy the 1050, but do try to give me you honest opinion. Thanks in advance!

Any more available? How much was it? How can I get one?

Wow. The RAM works really, really well. Just as advertised by APEX. So nice to have a product work perfectly. The trigger return is not a kick in the pants like a GLOCK which I find distracting, but a nice, solid click that has a similar feel as the sear tripping the firing pins. So pull on the trigger and click, the gun goes bang. Then release the trigger and click the trigger is reset. Perfect. Make sure your trigger bar is smoothed up on the areas that the RAM exerts pressure otherwise with the lightened trigger return spring you might not get a reliable reset. I had to take a honing stone to the right side of my trigger bar where the RAM contacts because it was very rough like the edge of a broken cracker (the kind you eat with soup, not a drug addict!). Since S&W never intended the right side to contact anything, I guess they did not feel it necessary to smooth up that area. I used a fine white honing stone and smoothed it up. My RAM did not include any instructions, not even a reference to a YouTube site. But you should be able to get information from a search on the web. Basically, take out the sear housing, put spring onto RAM, insert RAM/spring assembly into the left side of the sear assembly. The flat part of the RAM should be facing upward. Reassemble, noting that the tail of the trigger bar should easily slide into position, in the flattened part of the RAM. If it does not insert easily, rotate the RAM and slightly insert/compress the RAM to fit the trigger bar. Don't forget to reinstall the roll pin and test it out WITHOUT bullets first. The gun is now just about perfect! Time to go shooting.

Revisit your list of buddies that will work for beer! Honestly, a mixed bag of parts can lead to countless hours of fitting and tuning. The parts available for 1911 guns vary widely in specifications and dimensions. Building/assembling a AR15 is a piece of cake compared to a 1911. If you want or expect a finely tuned gun that is accurate and reliable; then buy a factory gun from Kimber/STI etc. But if all you expect is a rattling assembly of parts that looks like a 1911 and goes bang most of the time, then have a buddy help you out. Better yet, do it yourself as a learning project. Brownells has a few guides and books that explain the inner workings very well. After building your own gun, especially from mixed parts, you will really understand the gun. Way back when the earth was just cooling off and I started shooting, I could not find a local gunsmith to build me a reliable open gun. So I took on the project myself and found that I enjoy building/fixing guns more than shooting them. Good luck with the project.

Thank you all for your suggestions and tips. From what I have learned, here is what I think I am looking for. I am setting a budget of $1,000 for the complete set-up including torch, tank and basic hardware; which puts me into the "used" category. Miller seems to be preferred and I am looking forward to trying out the brand. My MIG is Lincoln and I must say that although it has lasted many years and many big spools, I find the quality lacking in the hardware. I don't need water cooled since I am doing duty cycle is short, I don't want the hassle of hooking up to water and my budget won't allow for water cooled. I am wanting the option to weld aluminum and thinner materials. So that means AC/DC and 5 or less amps. So is this price of $1,000 a realistic expectation? Which Miller model?

I have done quite a bit of MIG welding, mostly decorative iron work for houses, but just can't get the precision welds for gunsmithing. What brands/models of TIG welders do you guys recommend for a hobbyist doing gunsmithing? I have been noticing some welding units for sale in Craigslist lately and thinking it is a good time to buy.

Since your bullet lengths are not too long and it is happening on several types of bullets, my thought is that the slide lock is being engaged by the follower by itself; as opposed to being bumped by the bullets or your hand. See if the new follower has a higher slide lock ledge than previously. Also possible that the new spring has a stronger tilt upward on the front of the follower thus engaging slide lock earlier than necessary. Adjust as necessary so that it does not engage so early.

What type of adhesive did you have on it where propane heat loosened it up?

Good thing you are in WI; I was afraid you were talking about me! I have been guilty of be upset at reps at times. I usually am able to explain that it is the system of the company that I am frustrated over and not them personally. However, sometimes the devil gets out. Sorry for your bad experience. Just remember that people are weird!

Is the LED illumination going to be bright? Anyone know?

I examined the ParaOrdinance magazine springs and they have a design that seems innovative and unique. I am wondering why more magazines don't use this design? What they designed was that the upper coils are of a tighter winding than the lower coils; so as the spring is compressed, the upper coils will stack INSIDE of the lower coils. This allows greater capacity of rounds in the same sized magazine when compared to a traditional spring that is collapsed and sitting on itself. Is this idea patented or why don't others use it? Maybe we should keep this a little secret and go into manufacturing "special" Hi-Cap spring!

Simpler is better in my case. So I took off my Redi-Mag.

Never did understand a 2 stage trigger. When I pull the trigger, I want it to go bang right now, now after a while. I work very hard at getting all my handguns to have a "single stage" trigger also.