Paul-the new guy Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 I have a decked out 650 that I have been loading on for 1.5 years. I was mostly loading .40 and it rocks! 1000 rounds in a hour easy. Now I am shooting a lot more 9mm and loading that on the 650 kind of sucks! Just when I get cranking pretty well I hit a piece of brass with a crimped primer pocket or a very tight primer pocket. I don't sort my brass at all. It took over 2 hours to load 700 rounds! I am thinking that a 1050 will make loading 9mm as easy as loading .40 on my 650 but I am wondering.... does the swager need to be set up for diferent kinds of brass? I use my super swage to do .223 brass and I know that it does not work the same on a variety of brass. Is it the same for the 1050 swager on 9mm? I want a set it and forget it kind of setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg in VA Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 I loaded 9mm on a 1050 for about 6 years, loaded between 80-100 thousand rounds per year. Used all kinds of brass and never had any problems with the swager, went thur several powder measures.... Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latech15 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 I don't sort brass. Never notice any difference on my 1050. It is just what you want it to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al503 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 I load WCC, S&B, Fed NT, RG, etc., with the swager in one setting. Don't really notice much of a difference in effort on the downstroke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck223 Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 In a perfect world, sorting your brass would be best. However, you can usually compromise and find a setting for the swager back up rod and swager that works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 Sweet....now I have to save up a few dollars. I am wanting to keep the 650 and maybe just load .40 on that. I just started loading .45 and I have a few issues with those having crimped primers too. I can't afford the 1050 and all of the conversion kits and everything to load 4 calibers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 The swager stays the same but your still going to have problems if you dont sort your brass at all, like berdan, aluminum, steel .380 or 9x18 mixed in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 I sort out 99% of that stuff an occasional .380 makes it in and lately I have found a few berdan ones but I meant I don't sort by head stamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 The reason I ask is because I am using my super swage when I catch them and on some of them it doesn't do anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retread1911 Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Hey paul. Once you have the 1050 you will find yourself loving the elegance of everything on the down stroke. Until then there are folks out there that will process your 9mm brass removing any crimps and or roll sizing it if needed. It is an extra step with cost but an alternative to waiting on the 1050 before doing anything with your brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 If I didn't want to keep my 650 I would already have it. 9mm brass is so plentiful that I can't bring my self to buy it even if it has been processed. I have a guy I buy .40 from that has been processed like that but only because it is harder to find Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latech15 Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 (edited) I will elaborate on my brass preparation process on my dillon. I know that thIs is overkill and that I don't have to do it, but I do and I enjoy it so if you disagree please just laugh at me and don't try to talk me out of it. I don buy brass. I get range pick up stuff. It is always dirty when I get it. I sort it with the shaker containers then I wet tumble with stainless media. I then place them all in ammo boxes primer up. This usually weeds out the supers, super comp, 380's and this is also where I separate the nickel from the brass. I let it dry for a few days. Then I remove the powder drop and primers from my 1050 tool head and run all of the brass through. This deprimes, swages, and resizes all of the brass. I usually find a few 380's in here as well. Once it is all deprimed, I wet tumble again to get the primer pockets clean. This time I only put about 300 pieces in the tumbler and it gets them really shiny. I then place them in ammo boxes again with the head stamps facing up to dry for a few days. Once all that is done they are ready to load. I know it is overkill, but I don't have ammo issues period. I don't have press issues either for the most part. I am always presenting clean brass to it. Thanks Edited July 4, 2012 by latech15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retread1911 Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 I always roll size 9mm as well and some say that is overkill as well. We all have our processes and there will always be someone who thinks it is over kill. I never let that stop me either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retread1911 Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 If I didn't want to keep my 650 I would already have it. 9mm brass is so plentiful that I can't bring my self to buy it even if it has been processed. I have a guy I buy .40 from that has been processed like that but only because it is harder to find I try not to pay for 9mm brass either but sending it out to be processed before loading it until you get your 1050 might lower the stress for you. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 That is quite the process for sure. Mine is very similar.... I pick up brass with a brass wizard and I throw it in a bucket. When I get a bunch I talk my son into sorting it into buckets by caliber. If it was muddy, I wash it with lemishine and dry it in the sun. When I am ready to load it I have a bowl that holds around 300 rounds I scoop up a bowl full and throw it in the tumbler while it is tumbling I fill primer tubes. When it is done, I put another bowl full into the tumbler while I am loading the first batch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
constable79 Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 That is quite the process for sure. Mine is very similar.... I pick up brass with a brass wizard and I throw it in a bucket. When I get a bunch I talk my son into sorting it into buckets by caliber. If it was muddy, I wash it with lemishine and dry it in the sun. When I am ready to load it I have a bowl that holds around 300 rounds I scoop up a bowl full and throw it in the tumbler while it is tumbling I fill primer tubes. When it is done, I put another bowl full into the tumbler while I am loading the first batch. Paul, Just a suggestion as food for thought. Use the 1050 for your small primer calibers (9mm, .223, and .40) and use the 650 for large primer. This way you would only have to worry about changing the caliber and not mess with the priming system. You are correct, tool heads and conversion kits for the 1050 would cost you roughly $325 for each caliber but you could get by with just buying the conversion kit for .223 and .40 since you already have the dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
constable79 Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 I will elaborate on my brass preparation process on my dillon. I know that thIs is overkill and that I don't have to do it, but I do and I enjoy it so if you disagree please just laugh at me and don't try to talk me out of it. I don buy brass. I get range pick up stuff. It is always dirty when I get it. I sort it with the shaker containers then I wet tumble with stainless media. I then place them all in ammo boxes primer up. This usually weeds out the supers, super comp, 380's and this is also where I separate the nickel from the brass. I let it dry for a few days. Then I remove the powder drop and primers from my 1050 tool head and run all of the brass through. This deprimes, swages, and resizes all of the brass. I usually find a few 380's in here as well. Once it is all deprimed, I wet tumble again to get the primer pockets clean. This time I only put about 300 pieces in the tumbler and it gets them really shiny. I then place them in ammo boxes again with the head stamps facing up to dry for a few days. Once all that is done they are ready to load. I know it is overkill, but I don't have ammo issues period. I don't have press issues either for the most part. I am always presenting clean brass to it. Thanks Latech15 I follow a similar process as you. Did you ever consider using a universal decapper in a single stage? This way you would only have to tumble once and and run thru your 1050 once. This is the process I follow and I find it is not much slower than doing it your way for the initial depriming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 For the folks using the stainless pin method, if you will dump the cases on a bath towel after removing the pins and fold it over and shake them vigorously for a few moments and them tumble in corncob for 10/15 minutes they will be totally dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 If you like reloading it is all about over kill. If you like your process stay with it. I place washed cases into the wifes dryer on a towel, on the shoe rack. Cases are bone dry in about 15 minutes (and are fluffy too) Ready to drop in a tumbler. Just dont put too many in at one time. The rack will bend a little with the heat. If it sags too much it will hit the drum blades and you will get a really nice crash. If that happens remember to let the brass cool a little before picking up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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