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e-bay

$200-$300 is squat for a mountain bike. I just replace my front cartridge for my suspension $265. You can get decent deals on e-bay if you can find someone in your area who is selling and you can pick it up.

www.mtbr.com has review on most models when you find one you can do a search and see what others say about it. You should be able to pick a good bike up for $500 if you skip the suspension, beware if you get one with front fork you will eventually have to get them serviced so it will cost you down the road. Good luck!

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Shred

What should i be looking to pay for a decent bike? I dont need anything fancy just something to get me up and down the trails( nothing extreme) That will last and wont break the first week. Thanks for the help because i dont know a damn thing about bikes.

Steve

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If you actually plan on riding it as a mountain bike (i.e. on trails) do cough up for full suspension. It makes a HUGE difference in comfort.

Definitely buy used. You can easily save 30-50% over the cost of a shiny, new bike.

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Thanks L2S & Jeeper,There are so many bikes out there im kinda overwhelmed.Thanks guys.

Eric

Yeah i plane on rideing trails just nothing real extreme. i have been looking on ebay and amazon i just dont know what i really need.

Steve

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steve223,

go to a bike shop, look around and ask questions there. most of the time they know what they're talking about.

you'll find out that the minimum for a decent bike will be more than $300.

good luck in the search.

lynn

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Steve,

I don't know what you have around you in the way of bike shops, but try to ride before you buy. The advancements in mountain bikes over the last decade are just amazing. You should be able to pick up a fully suspended bike, used, in the $400-500 range that will be vastly more fun than the rigid, lead sled that you'd get for $300.

The other thing not to skimp on is components. I don't know what's good anymore, but when I bought my mountain bike (circa 1990) the differences in components were like night and day. I bought top of the line Shimano and never regretted it. Once set up, they basically never come out of adjustment. The cheap crap basically never stays *in* adjustment for more than 38 seconds or so.

I know I'm spending your money, but I think saving your lunch money for a couple of months will vastly increase your fun level and keep you *on* the bike instead of having another $300, one month novelty to adorn your garage.

If you were close, I'd let you borrow mine for a while and see how little fun a rigid bike is on rocky trails.

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The Closest thing to a bike shop here in deming is wally world but there are a couple in a town 60 miles from here,I will make a run up there after the steel match sat. and look and ask questions.Eric that is exactaly what i am trying to avoid, something i have to screw with until i get pissed off and chunk it in the junk pile.I guess ill just have to spend the money on a good one. Thanks for the offer of yours but it would be a long ride home :P Thanks every one for the help!

Steve

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I totally disagree about full suspension. I raced for 2 years and have been riding for 10 and never felt disadvantaged without a rear shock. If you are going to ski resorts and bombing down the hills then you need 8" of full suspension. The majority of "cross country" bikes sold are hardtails. I just helped a friend buy a new bike. Trek 8000 is about a $1000 and has good parts that won't fall apart in the first year. Trek also made another model down that still looked good for around $600. You have to cross the $500 mark to get a decent bike. If you get in the 800-1000 range, you can get something pretty sweet that will keep you riding for years.

Good luck

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I agree with 40AET.

I raced mountain bikes and road bikes for years and full suspension isnt really necessary. Front is though. It depends on the terrain you are doind also. Full suspension will eat up a lot of energy if you ride it on the road a lot.

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I totally disagree about full suspension.

OK, I stand corrected.

I never raced. All I know is that a buddy's fully suspended bike was literally effortless to ride compared to mine.

Mea Culpa

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Front is nice, rear is nice to but the added weight does make a difference, especailly is your rear doesn't lock out. The difference it makes on your butt is worth it 10 times over if you can afford it and you don't mind working a bit harder :) If the trail in your neck of the woods are smooth I wouldn't spend the $$$ for any suspension, but if they aren't buy what you can afford :) it makes it that much more enjoyable not having your teeth rattle out.

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I'm no racer and do run a full-suspension bike. It's nicer, but by no means a must have (front suspension I do think is a necessity for trail work). Sorta like a stock Glock 22 vs STI Edge for Limited, I'd say-- a little softer, a little smoother, but either get the job done.

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I'm no racer and do run a full-suspension bike. It's nicer, but by no means a must have (front suspension I do think is a necessity for trail work). Sorta like a stock Glock 22 vs STI Edge for Limited, I'd say-- a little softer, a little smoother, but either get the job done.

Shred,

Dont ever compare my hardtail to a glock again. beatstick.gif

:D

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Oh yeah, I forgot about the weight issue with a full suspension bike. My 24lb hardail climbs a lot faster than a 32 lb full suspension bike. I had a $2900 superlight full suspension foo foo bike and broke everything on it, then went back to my hardtail. Superlight=broken

Don't buy the foo foo superlight hightech stuff.

Superlight wheels=both broke (trashcan) Mongo out 600 bucks

Superlight front suspension=broke (trashcan) Mongo out 350 bucks (4th fork is ok)

Carbon fiber high tech handlebars=broke (trashcan) Mongo out 120 bucks

Carbon fiber high tech setpost= ouch, broke Mongo out 115 bucks

Lifetime warranty on parts is needed, but very rare in the industry. Always worth the extra money. :lol:

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Stay away from the department store (wal-mart, k-mart, target) stuff. Period.

I agree on the used stuff. Although, there are a few brands where you can get a decent entry level bike for just over $300. I, for example, have a Fuji Nevada. Aluminum frame, front suspension, Shimano derailleurs. I have well over 500 miles on it and it has served me very well. In moutain bikes, Shimano drivetrain components (which generally tells you alot about the bike overall) are sorted in the follwing order (ascending quality)

Alevio

Acera

Deore

Deore XT

XT

XTR/Saint

If you want new, for value, I'd look at bikes by Fuji, Raleigh or Giant

As for dual-suspension bikes, the advent of stable platform valving have, in many cases, has all but elimated pedeal induced bob. Granted, you have to spend upwards of $2000+ to get such a suspension (more or less). For example, the 2003 UCI World Championship were won for the first time ever on a dual suspension bike (Specialized Epic with the Brain valve).

Now, if want to talk about suspension, check this bad boy out:

Nine Honking Inches of Travel

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OK, I stand corrected.

I was not trying to correct you, we don't happen to be in agreament on the issue. ;)

Full suspension has gotten into the cross country circuit. However a 24lb full suspension bike is over $3000. I wouldn't ride it unless sponsored by someone who would give me a box of free stuff to break. :lol:

I'm with Dave-Stay away from the big box stores.

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For what it's worth, a Raleigh was my first bike, good on road, but when I took it into the woods, front spocket the first week, derailer next week, bent crank arm (not from wrecking). went back into the bike store and they sugested a more sutible bike for off raod use I setteled on a Gary Fischer Kaitai hard tail front Rock shock Judy, new $800 I would sugest getting a post shock which gives you 1" of travel for your tuchy, which will be needed. I would also recomend clip in pedals, it takes a few rides to get use to them and not fail over when you come to a stop, but well worth it on the uphill climbs. Its like any other hobby you will find that you can drop some cash down in the first year I spent around $3,000 in start up (shorts, shirts, helment, gloves, shoes, camlebak, repair tools to keep with you on the ride, it suck to walk your bike out) the guys are right stay with Shimano parts you want be sorry, and stay away from the big dept stores they have name brands but they're the lowest end and never put together properly, it would be worth your time to go to town to a bike shop. Jamie

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Thanks every one for your advice. Went and talked to the guys at the bike shop and they were a big help. I bought a slitely used 2003 Fuji Discovery 3, full suspension Bike for just a little over my budget.I have put about 20 miles on it so far and i think its going to be fine for what i want.I am glad i got full suspension because my A@# is already sore :o .

Steve

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Doh, I chimed in too late. I raced pretty much everything, road, mountain, and cyclocross. I ride my road bike offroad and have raced mountain bike races with my cross bike, talk about not having ANY suspension.

My current mountain bike is a dual suspension Marin. Wasn't my first choice, but I got a good deal from the shop I used to work for. I paid $1300 for a $2200 bike, actually below wholesale. He needed cash and I had it. I was going to order a hardtail. My previous mountain bike was a Ibis, a very expensive fully rigid bike. The Marin is actually lighter than my Ibis.

The difference between suspension and no suspension is about the difference between shooting iron sights and a dot. Having suspension is much more forgiving and will cover up your mistakes. Riding a rigid, you have to pick a smooth line or you will not make it down the trail. I've endo many times with a rigid. With a dually, you pretty much can roll over anything. One cool trick is to find a shallow flight of stairs something that rises maybe 4" for every 12". Pick a small gear and ride into the stairs at an angle. Stay seated and keep pedalling and let the suspension do the work. If you have good balance and keep pedalling, you will make it up the stairs. Can't do that on a rigid unless you hop up the stairs.

The one problem I have with dual suspension bikes is the rear suspension will always suck power when you climb. It doesn't matter what the design, they all suck power. Mine has a lock out and I'll pick up another 1-2 mph by locking out the suspension. Only problem is I already blown the lock out on my shock once. Had to send it to Fox under warranty to have it rebuilt.

Having worked as a bike mechanic for way too many years in the past, I really don't like having suspension. While it's nice, I just don't want to work on them. They are a pain in the arse and often require special little expensive tools that the company is always out of stock.

For beginners, I definitely would recommend getting a dual suspension bike because it much more forgiving and you will have more fun with it. For people more hardcore that want to be really good at racing mountain bikes, definitely a fully rigid bike to learn the essential skills to go fast, then race on a bike with suspension. It's like learning the fundamentals with a iron sight gun, then moving to a dot.

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