EkuJustice Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 MSH is the easiest way to shave weight and it takes it out of your hands. If you want the front end lighter, a Aluminum guide rod or GI setup will save weight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Go to a GI style guide rod. Full length rods don't really do anything anyways. It will be easier to disassemble and you'll make weight. People think that the full length rod keeps the spring straight and captured. What they don't realize is that the with a GI set up, the spring is 95% captured by the guide and the long cap already. The full length guide rod was one of those solutions to a problem which didn't exist. Are you one of those guys who still uses 7-round mags in your 1911 because that's what John Moses Browning designed it for? 1911s sure feel smoother with FLGRs installed. More importantly, if you're trying to cut weight, the last place you want to cut is non-reciprocating weight up front. Sure, it's easy to yank out the guide rod, but there are better and smarter ways to cut weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodownzero Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 If you don't like tri-topping, flat top it and put a Hi-Power cut in the front. Welcome to open! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 (edited) Go to a GI style guide rod. Full length rods don't really do anything anyways. It will be easier to disassemble and you'll make weight. People think that the full length rod keeps the spring straight and captured. What they don't realize is that the with a GI set up, the spring is 95% captured by the guide and the long cap already. The full length guide rod was one of those solutions to a problem which didn't exist. Are you one of those guys who still uses 7-round mags in your 1911 because that's what John Moses Browning designed it for? 1911s sure feel smoother with FLGRs installed. More importantly, if you're trying to cut weight, the last place you want to cut is non-reciprocating weight up front. Sure, it's easy to yank out the guide rod, but there are better and smarter ways to cut weight. Yer funny. You must be one of those guys who dumps octane booster and junk in your gas tank cuz the label says it will give you 20hp. Edited June 19, 2012 by co-exprs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Go to a GI style guide rod. Full length rods don't really do anything anyways. It will be easier to disassemble and you'll make weight. People think that the full length rod keeps the spring straight and captured. What they don't realize is that the with a GI set up, the spring is 95% captured by the guide and the long cap already. The full length guide rod was one of those solutions to a problem which didn't exist. Are you one of those guys who still uses 7-round mags in your 1911 because that's what John Moses Browning designed it for? 1911s sure feel smoother with FLGRs installed. More importantly, if you're trying to cut weight, the last place you want to cut is non-reciprocating weight up front. Sure, it's easy to yank out the guide rod, but there are better and smarter ways to cut weight. Yer funny. You must be one of those guys who dumps octane booster and junk in your gas tank cuz the label says it will give you 20hp. He is funny, and right. I've put numerous ways to cut weight on 1911s over the years and nobody seems to want to read them. Cutting weight isn't that hard but there is right ways to do it and wrong ways to do it for competition. Sure if I think I might have to rack the slide one handed because the zombie ate my other arm then I might want a GI guide rod setup, for this game, I'll stick with aluminum FLGR if need be or a steel one if I can get by with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag316 Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 I built my wife a 9mm 1911 on a Caspian Race Ready frame and found the magwell wouldn't let the mags seat fully--too much material at the front, where the tab on the mag meets the frame. I spoke with the Caspian folks, and they said some builders are milling out part of the magwell to put in some space. Some of them are milling the front out completely so there's a spot to dig your finger into the tab to strip the mag out if you need to do that. I'm considering doing that with this frame. Or maybe on my next build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehli Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Go to a GI style guide rod. Full length rods don't really do anything anyways. It will be easier to disassemble and you'll make weight. People think that the full length rod keeps the spring straight and captured. What they don't realize is that the with a GI set up, the spring is 95% captured by the guide and the long cap already. The full length guide rod was one of those solutions to a problem which didn't exist. Are you one of those guys who still uses 7-round mags in your 1911 because that's what John Moses Browning designed it for? 1911s sure feel smoother with FLGRs installed. More importantly, if you're trying to cut weight, the last place you want to cut is non-reciprocating weight up front. Sure, it's easy to yank out the guide rod, but there are better and smarter ways to cut weight. Yer funny. You must be one of those guys who dumps octane booster and junk in your gas tank cuz the label says it will give you 20hp. I love it when dingleberry newbs get in over their heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag316 Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Go to a GI style guide rod. Full length rods don't really do anything anyways. It will be easier to disassemble and you'll make weight. People think that the full length rod keeps the spring straight and captured. What they don't realize is that the with a GI set up, the spring is 95% captured by the guide and the long cap already. The full length guide rod was one of those solutions to a problem which didn't exist. Are you one of those guys who still uses 7-round mags in your 1911 because that's what John Moses Browning designed it for? 1911s sure feel smoother with FLGRs installed. More importantly, if you're trying to cut weight, the last place you want to cut is non-reciprocating weight up front. Sure, it's easy to yank out the guide rod, but there are better and smarter ways to cut weight. Yer funny. You must be one of those guys who dumps octane booster and junk in your gas tank cuz the label says it will give you 20hp. I love it when dingleberry newbs get in over their heads. +1. And I'm not just saying that because Carmoney kicked my butt at A5 over the weekend! Of course, we all got destroyed by Ted Puente. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillD Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Go to a GI style guide rod. Full length rods don't really do anything anyways. It will be easier to disassemble and you'll make weight. People think that the full length rod keeps the spring straight and captured. What they don't realize is that the with a GI set up, the spring is 95% captured by the guide and the long cap already. The full length guide rod was one of those solutions to a problem which didn't exist. Are you one of those guys who still uses 7-round mags in your 1911 because that's what John Moses Browning designed it for? 1911s sure feel smoother with FLGRs installed. More importantly, if you're trying to cut weight, the last place you want to cut is non-reciprocating weight up front. Sure, it's easy to yank out the guide rod, but there are better and smarter ways to cut weight. Yer funny. You must be one of those guys who dumps octane booster and junk in your gas tank cuz the label says it will give you 20hp. He is funny, and right. I've put numerous ways to cut weight on 1911s over the years and nobody seems to want to read them. Cutting weight isn't that hard but there is right ways to do it and wrong ways to do it for competition. Sure if I think I might have to rack the slide one handed because the zombie ate my other arm then I might want a GI guide rod setup, for this game, I'll stick with aluminum FLGR if need be or a steel one if I can get by with it. That's some funny shit right there.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 TY63622. Not a newb and all of my single stacks run better on a GI guide rod. They feed more reliably as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbbean Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Have I just wandered into another forum by mistake? Are we really debating FLGR vs GIGR? Can discussions of the evils of front cocking serrations, flat tops, and the 8 round mag be next? BB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillD Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 It's like being on the 1911 forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 TY63622. Not a newb and all of my single stacks run better on a GI guide rod. They feed more reliably as well. No offense, but check the numbers of the guys who are talking to you about these things. Now look at some of their ranks. We've been around the block, so to speak, on this subject a number of times. If you like a GI guide rod then by all means run one. That doesn't mean its the best way for this sport. Also, don't take offense to what a lot of people on here say, we have a dry since of humor sometimes....we'll that and Mike is a lawyer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehli Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 we'll that and Mike is a lawyer And what the hell is that supposed to mean?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 I was just making a suggestion for saving weight, not trying to throw rocks at a bees nest. I like all the cool stuff too and marvel at well made single stacks in all of thier wonderous variety. I've tried many different configurations including recoil masters and even a Sprinco. Ultimately, I found that both my Baer and my Wilson both had little hiccups (mostly with feeding) when running FLGR. Both pistols feed smoother with a GI set up, allowing me more flexibility with recoil spring selection. I've found that spring selection has more impact on muzzle management than the weight of the guide rod. I am a tinkerer and experiment frequently in search of the better set up, in all of my firearms. My 2011 runs a FLGR, because It was designed too and I didn't discover any benefit by running anything else. I find it ironic that I just got blasted by a bunch of forum dudes for being so narrow minded as to not have the same oppinion as everone else. Priceless! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehli Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 I find it ironic that I just got blasted by a bunch of forum dudes for being so narrow minded as to not have the same oppinion as everone else. Priceless! For the record, I "blasted" you for the way you chose to address Mr. Carmoney. He ribbed you a little and provided a rationale for his opinion. The entire content of your response was an ad hominem attack on his intelligence. The material of the post I quoted here but edited out could have been included in your original response to him and would have made it appear to be much less animosity-laced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbbean Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 It's like being on the 1911 forum I wasn't going to call them by name, but yup! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 we'll that and Mike is a lawyer And what the hell is that supposed to mean?! Oh crap are you one of those lawyers too! You guys are to smart for me lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehli Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 On my way. Just practicing my faux outrage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 On my way. Just practicing my faux outrage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncopenshooter Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 FWIW, mine easily makes weight with a FLGR and can say that I don't own a 1911 that doesn't have one 'cause well...they're better than the GI turd. My SS-40 is tri-topped, has an aluminum mainspring housing and has a Techwell (XT) that I trimmed down. From there, I dropped in a steel FLGR and when it was a smidge over weight, chucked it in to the old Bridgeport and hollowed it out. Not all the way. Just enough to make weight. I made sure that it made weight with the 2 different magazine manufacturers I was running at the time. After talking with a buddy of mine in AZ, I now only run Wilson 45ACP ETM's. Runs all day. K.I.S.S. goes a long way but then, I'm simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z40acp Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 If you don't like tri-topping, flat top it and put a Hi-Power cut in the front. Welcome to open! I am pretty sure that I read in the Front Sight the Browning cut was legal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 If you don't like tri-topping, flat top it and put a Hi-Power cut in the front. Welcome to open! No, not true. Tri-topping, Hi-power cutting is perfectly fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag316 Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) If you don't like tri-topping, flat top it and put a Hi-Power cut in the front. Welcome to open! How so? Which rule does it violate? Appendix D5, Rules 21 and 22 say cuts have to be designed to "specifically or significantly lighten the slide" to be competitive advantage and illegal. I'd argue those cuts are cosmetic in nature and are not designed specifically for that purpose. Ask John Amidon. If you get a ruling from him, no one's going to argue with you. Edited June 20, 2012 by frag316 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehli Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 More specifically, from D5, Section 21: "Duplicating features that are on a factory, mass produced slide available to the general public is permitted." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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