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Which recoil spring for G34


brandrum

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Sorry if this has been discussed a lot, but I did a search and there was a ton of stuff to sift through and I didn't find the info I was looking for. My question: is it a good idea to change to a different weight recoil spring in my G34 or just stick with the stock spring? I'm shooting 124g MG bullets. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.

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If you're shooting factory loads, no need to change the spring (not including replacing it with a brand new one after 5,000 rounds).

If you're shooting weak loads, then drop to a 13/14 pound spring (13 should be good for 135 power factor loads; 14 for stronger loads).

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If you're shooting factory loads, no need to change the spring (not including replacing it with a brand new one after 5,000 rounds).

If you're shooting weak loads, then drop to a 13/14 pound spring (13 should be good for 135 power factor loads; 14 for stronger loads).

I haven't chronographed any of my loads yet. I'm using 4.4 grains of Bullseye powder with the 124 grain mg's. It does fee ALOT less snappy compared to factory ammo.

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If you haven't had extraction/ejection/feeding issues, then stick with OEM. No need to change something if it ain't broke.

ok, thanks guys. I didn't know if it would help with recoil or cycling speed, but I'm for sure a proponent of the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" line of thinking.

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Did you replace the double-springs in the Gen4 OEM RSA with a single-spring 13# ISMI? If so, how did you do that?

Weight of stock spring is 17lb's. I use 13lb ISMI springs recaptured on the factory rod because I like the way the gun and sights track better with a lighter spring, YMMV. They are cheap enough, buy a few and experiment.

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Hey guys,

I'm new to glocks. I've come to understood that w/ a light recoil spring like 13lb that a lighter striker spring should be used? what is recommended? Thinking of going 13lb recoil and down 1 lb on the striker?

-rvb

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There was discussion on this on a thread I started.

Here's the link: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137243&st=25&p=1544551&hl=glock%20duane%20thomas%20spring%2013&fromsearch=1entry1544551

Hey guys,

I'm new to glocks. I've come to understood that w/ a light recoil spring like 13lb that a lighter striker spring should be used? what is recommended? Thinking of going 13lb recoil and down 1 lb on the striker?

-rvb

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There was discussion on this on a thread I started.

Here's the link: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137243&st=25&p=1544551&hl=glock%20duane%20thomas%20spring%2013&fromsearch=1entry1544551

Hey guys,

I'm new to glocks. I've come to understood that w/ a light recoil spring like 13lb that a lighter striker spring should be used? what is recommended? Thinking of going 13lb recoil and down 1 lb on the striker?

-rvb

cool. good read. thanks! :)

-rvb

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No worries. Always better to leverage existing data/threads when possible, particularly from folks who know what they're talking about. :)

There was discussion on this on a thread I started.

Here's the link: http://www.brianenos...1

Hey guys,

I'm new to glocks. I've come to understood that w/ a light recoil spring like 13lb that a lighter striker spring should be used? what is recommended? Thinking of going 13lb recoil and down 1 lb on the striker?

-rvb

cool. good read. thanks! :)

-rvb

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I was having lock-up issues after 1500ish rounds with a 13lb ismi spring. I switched to the 15lb that was the back up for my 40cal and have been very happy with the combo.

Could you give us a little bit more info?

Stock striker spring? Define lock up issues if you will. The slide is coming out of battery prematurely or you are suffering from say an early unlock issue where your accurate is completely bonered.

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I was having lock-up issues after 1500ish rounds with a 13lb ismi spring. I switched to the 15lb that was the back up for my 40cal and have been very happy with the combo.

Could you give us a little bit more info?

Stock striker spring? Define lock up issues if you will. The slide is coming out of battery prematurely or you are suffering from say an early unlock issue where your accurate is completely bonered.

I was having issues with the gun not going fully into battery ... After the match, I tried the safety check where you pull the trigger, aim the pistol up, and slowly release the slide... it would not go back about 3 times out of 10... It is one of the standard "safety" checks for a glock...

I was running a 13# recoil spring, extra power trigger spring, and a lightened striker spring.

As for accuracy... that is purely the fault of my "advanced point and shoot" technique... I confess, sights are only marginally important until the targets get out past 10 yards, and my brain only sees them as mandatory on texas stars, poppers past 20 yards, and plate racks... :roflol:

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Did you replace the double-springs in the Gen4 OEM RSA with a single-spring 13# ISMI? If so, how did you do that?

Weight of stock spring is 17lb's. I use 13lb ISMI springs recaptured on the factory rod because I like the way the gun and sights track better with a lighter spring, YMMV. They are cheap enough, buy a few and experiment.

No... sorry. He was asking about the weight of Gen 3's springs so I was talking about Gen 3 guns. I don't own any Gen 4's and don't think I would.

My setup that I use and has worked great for many thousands of rounds is as follows:

Two Glock 34's set up the same:

-ISMI 13lb recoil spring recaptured on the plastic guide rod (lock slide back, gently pull cap off with pliers, switch spring carefully [you'll shoot your eye out!!] and replace cap).

-4lb. striker spring

-lightning strike lightened steel striker.

-lightning strike titanium safety plunger with lighter spring.

-Ghost ultimate connector.

-stock trigger spring.

-extended magazine catch

-standard slide stop lever

-Sevigny rear/Dawson FO front.

-everything polished with Maas and a rag and maybe lightly with a felt polishing wheel.

I change the recoil and striker spring at the same time whenever they start giving me any issues, usually around 10-15,000 rounds. I had to change the striker on my primary gun after about 30,000 when the end chipped off and it wasn't igniting primers consistently.

Other than that the guns have nice, light triggers around three pounds with a crisp break and positive reset. The sights track nicely back to the target (the way I like). This is what works for me. The good thing about Glock's is they are cheap and easy to work on, so you can experiment without spending a fortune.

My Glock 35's and 21sf RTF 2's are setup the same way as above except they all have 15lb springs (the springs in these are Wolff springs on Wolff steel guide rods).

no issues with any of them and a boat load of 134PF and 172PF ammo down range.

Good luck.

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I think you misunderstood my message. I thought he had replaced the springs on his Gen4 dual-spring recoil spring assembly.

Thanks though.

Did you replace the double-springs in the Gen4 OEM RSA with a single-spring 13# ISMI? If so, how did you do that?

Simple, buy a Glockworx reducing ring and you can run Gen3 rods/springs in a Gen4.

http://www.glockworx...156838&CAT=3694

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